Night Riding/Training Need Head Light Advice
#26
Senior Member


Joined: Jul 2008
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From: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0
surprised myself with an impromptu ride last night & got to use my rarely used Magicshine. it's an old light & lots of newer lights are better. adding a helmet light would be helpful in some situations for sure. but for the empty rail trail it was fine. it does offer some oblique side visibility too. cars at road crossings were stopping for me before I was anywhere near them. don't forget rear lights. I use two
#27
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2012
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Very high powered lights create a huge reflective hot spot on the road , blind oncoming traffic and dissipate into the air, not too much projected on the road ahead. My 700 lumens Lyzene Super Drive XL light is not as useful on the road as the shaped beam German Ixon IQ light(1st gen.) on the road only rated at 40 lux.
I like using them both when riding fast at night. Lyzene is on a weakest setting with the round beam to light right in front of me and the IXON IQ light shaped beam adjusted higher and way too forward, so I could see far at fast descents.
The second gen Ixon IQ Premium has a wider beam and even brighter at 80 lux.
My advice get a shaped beam light like the B&M IQ technology and a small LED cheap light to light up the road in front of you or one of those small lights that go on the helmet. Or if money is not an issue get this:
SL A Street-legal Bike Light
It has both shaped beam and round beam patterns.
I like using them both when riding fast at night. Lyzene is on a weakest setting with the round beam to light right in front of me and the IXON IQ light shaped beam adjusted higher and way too forward, so I could see far at fast descents.
The second gen Ixon IQ Premium has a wider beam and even brighter at 80 lux.
My advice get a shaped beam light like the B&M IQ technology and a small LED cheap light to light up the road in front of you or one of those small lights that go on the helmet. Or if money is not an issue get this:
SL A Street-legal Bike Light
It has both shaped beam and round beam patterns.
#28
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,277
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From: Kota, Aichi, Japan
Bikes: 2011 Giant Seek R3, 2015 Specialized Allez Elite, 2017 Giant TCR Advanced 2
Very high powered lights create a huge reflective hot spot on the road , blind oncoming traffic and dissipate into the air, not too much projected on the road ahead. My 700 lumens Lyzene Super Drive XL light is not as useful on the road as the shaped beam German Ixon IQ light(1st gen.) on the road only rated at 40 lux.
I like using them both when riding fast at night. Lyzene is on a weakest setting with the round beam to light right in front of me and the IXON IQ light shaped beam adjusted higher and way too forward, so I could see far at fast descents.
The second gen Ixon IQ Premium has a wider beam and even brighter at 80 lux.
My advice get a shaped beam light like the B&M IQ technology and a small LED cheap light to light up the road in front of you or one of those small lights that go on the helmet. Or if money is not an issue get this:
SL A Street-legal Bike Light
It has both shaped beam and round beam patterns.
I like using them both when riding fast at night. Lyzene is on a weakest setting with the round beam to light right in front of me and the IXON IQ light shaped beam adjusted higher and way too forward, so I could see far at fast descents.
The second gen Ixon IQ Premium has a wider beam and even brighter at 80 lux.
My advice get a shaped beam light like the B&M IQ technology and a small LED cheap light to light up the road in front of you or one of those small lights that go on the helmet. Or if money is not an issue get this:
SL A Street-legal Bike Light
It has both shaped beam and round beam patterns.
I do wonder why my high powered light doesn't have the same beam pattern as the older light... They're both Cateye...
#29
Full Member

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 400
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From: Upstate NY, USA
Bikes: ENVE MOG, Jamis Endura, Cannondale CAAD, Raleigh Cross, Fausto Coppi.
The light used 4 AA rechargeable batteries and a universal charger. The running time is very impressive on a single charge also, 5 hours on high and 20 hours on low.
#30
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 400
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From: Upstate NY, USA
Bikes: ENVE MOG, Jamis Endura, Cannondale CAAD, Raleigh Cross, Fausto Coppi.
I don't know, I have a light with a nice beam shape that's low power, and on dark streets it is not enough. The high powered light let's me see way better, and makes me much more visible, however I try to keep it on the low side and only use it on high when on streets with no lights at all or when I will be going downhill fast.
I do wonder why my high powered light doesn't have the same beam pattern as the older light... They're both Cateye...
I do wonder why my high powered light doesn't have the same beam pattern as the older light... They're both Cateye...
https://www.bumm.de/en/products/akku...1922qmla.html?
#31
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Joined: Oct 2015
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Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2017 Workswell 093, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE
I am a long-time night-rider, so I can actually add something to this thread. Mostly I will add endorsements.
These are great lights. I Really like the variable power setting. I really don’t like that I have tio physically break the light open to put in a new battery when the original wears out ... though I hear you can send them back to be refurbished. Never had to yet, so I don’t know. Really great lights. Run on low, they last for ... maybe eight hours? It is ridiculous.. and they charge in one or two hours.
I agree, if you are going fast, two lights are necessary. I don’t wear a helmet, so I have them on my bars. One is aimed out, the other close. You can see something far away and be ready, and when it’s close, know exactly what it is and know what’s appropriate.
One light is fine, but there will always be a hole, either far out (no good, because you need the reaction time) or close in (not good because you want to know if it is a stain on the pavement or a seven-inch-deep pothole or an armadillo or raccoon or something.)
I just bought two 1000-lumen CREE lights for six dollars, and another couple bucks for mounts. For situations where I am only running one light, or really want to be safe (certain downhills I avoid at night because I am afraid I will get stupid and hurt myself) I think these will be excellent ... plus I can carry spare, fully charged batteries. The lights can be focused wide or long and tight, another plus. I wish they had a dimmer function, but for six bucks a pair, ....I can manage.
I do a ton of night miles—with my job, getting off for those sweet daytime hours when the weather is good is almost impossible. After work it is either too hot, too cold, or too late ... so lights are really important.
When I commuted six days a week, I did at least an hour sometimes two every night five or six days a week.
But I am cheap, I spent a couple hundred on a pair of Urbans, and a couple Cygolite hotshots ... and I don’t regret it. But I can also get some red plastic and glue it over the 1000-watt $3 flashlight (which has a flashing mode) and outshine my Cygolite, and a pair up front are if anything, Too bright for most applications.
I understand the appeal of the really finely crafted stuff, but money on the lights is money not in the frame or running gear (or, worst crime of all, not spent on the wife.) So I will keep my 6800 and 5800 groups, my reasonably happy marriage, and a handful of 1000-watt budget flashlights with removable rechargeable replaceable batteries.
One light is fine, but there will always be a hole, either far out (no good, because you need the reaction time) or close in (not good because you want to know if it is a stain on the pavement or a seven-inch-deep pothole or an armadillo or raccoon or something.)
I rode roughly 400-500 miles in the dark last winter (too lazy to dig through to get an exact number). I use two cheap flashlights that take 18650 batteries. One aimed low and wide and when needed, I turn on the second and it's aimed higher. The main light starts to get a little dim but can make it the 1.5 hours but I a carry a spare battery just in case or just use the other one. Simple, cheap. Pitch black rural road and bike path route that I've done a 100 times before, that being said, it is still unpredictable, I stay under 20ish. I ride with one at all times every ride regardless of season or time as a flasher if needed. In the perfect world, I'd have a helmet light but I can't stand any additional weight on my helmet. I don't want wired battery packs and I want the ability to swap batteries
I do a ton of night miles—with my job, getting off for those sweet daytime hours when the weather is good is almost impossible. After work it is either too hot, too cold, or too late ... so lights are really important.
When I commuted six days a week, I did at least an hour sometimes two every night five or six days a week.
But I am cheap, I spent a couple hundred on a pair of Urbans, and a couple Cygolite hotshots ... and I don’t regret it. But I can also get some red plastic and glue it over the 1000-watt $3 flashlight (which has a flashing mode) and outshine my Cygolite, and a pair up front are if anything, Too bright for most applications.
I understand the appeal of the really finely crafted stuff, but money on the lights is money not in the frame or running gear (or, worst crime of all, not spent on the wife.) So I will keep my 6800 and 5800 groups, my reasonably happy marriage, and a handful of 1000-watt budget flashlights with removable rechargeable replaceable batteries.
Last edited by Maelochs; 09-26-17 at 01:31 PM.
#32
Taz
I have this Light and Motion Taz 1500 and it is superb:
https://www.excelsports.com/main.asp...SABEgLvEvD_BwE
Super bright and great coverage. I had a Cateye Volt 1200 too before and that was very nice as well...
https://www.excelsports.com/main.asp...SABEgLvEvD_BwE
Super bright and great coverage. I had a Cateye Volt 1200 too before and that was very nice as well...
#33
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 14,779
Likes: 743
From: Northwest Georgia
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
Another fan of Light & Motion products here. For the record, I ride extensively at night.
I own an Urban 800 fast charge headlight and a Vis 360+ helmet lamp. Beam pattern on Light & Motion products is second to none and makes the light seem much brighter than it is.
L&M Urban 800 Fast Charge - $78 - https://www.excelsports.com/main.asp...ajor=3&minor=6
L&M Urban 650 - $48 - https://www.excelsports.com/main.asp...ajor=3&minor=6
-Tim-
I own an Urban 800 fast charge headlight and a Vis 360+ helmet lamp. Beam pattern on Light & Motion products is second to none and makes the light seem much brighter than it is.
L&M Urban 800 Fast Charge - $78 - https://www.excelsports.com/main.asp...ajor=3&minor=6
L&M Urban 650 - $48 - https://www.excelsports.com/main.asp...ajor=3&minor=6
-Tim-
#34
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 777
Likes: 1
From: Potomac, MD
Bikes: 2012 GT Transeo 3 2014 Cannondale CAAD 10 105
I've been running a mix of lights from Cygolite and Knog on my night rides.
On the front
Cygolite Dice HL 150 in flash mode from handlebars
Cygolite Dash 320 pointed far down road on solid mode from handlebars
Cygolite Hotrod 110 on solid mode on the front fork
Cygolite Metro 420 with a modded wide angle lens pointed into my general view area on solid mode on my helmet
On the rear
Cygolite Dice TL 50 on flash mode on seat tube below seat stay junction
Cygolite Hotrod 50 on solid mode on left seat stay
Knog Blinder Road on flash mode on the seat post above the collar
I'll also sometimes clip an old blackburn mars 3.0 light to a jersey pocket if i've gone out without my Rapha Brevet vest on, but the vest does a good job of providing reflective accents to my body while riding
I find the combo of flashing, and solid on the rear works well, and the multiple lights up front gives me a wide view
On the front
Cygolite Dice HL 150 in flash mode from handlebars
Cygolite Dash 320 pointed far down road on solid mode from handlebars
Cygolite Hotrod 110 on solid mode on the front fork
Cygolite Metro 420 with a modded wide angle lens pointed into my general view area on solid mode on my helmet
On the rear
Cygolite Dice TL 50 on flash mode on seat tube below seat stay junction
Cygolite Hotrod 50 on solid mode on left seat stay
Knog Blinder Road on flash mode on the seat post above the collar
I'll also sometimes clip an old blackburn mars 3.0 light to a jersey pocket if i've gone out without my Rapha Brevet vest on, but the vest does a good job of providing reflective accents to my body while riding
I find the combo of flashing, and solid on the rear works well, and the multiple lights up front gives me a wide view
#35
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From: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0
#36
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 14,779
Likes: 743
From: Northwest Georgia
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
One has to go really big to get more than 2 or 3 hours on high without a dynamo or external battery pack.
I own an Exposure Strada 1200. It will burn 3 hours at 1200 lumens but will burn 10 hours on medium. The medium setting on this light is more than many other lights on high and burn time is never an issue. The tradeoff is size, weight and cost. It is heavy, big and cost a small fortune.
Burn time on smaller lights can be extended by turning them down to the medium or low setting when on quiet roads, cruising on trails or climbing slowly.
-Tim-
Last edited by TimothyH; 09-27-17 at 08:41 AM.
#37
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Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2017 Workswell 093, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE
I sue my urbans on low whenever possible .... normally they are bright enough for safe riding. But ... i have to have two. No battery swap possible.
When I get my CREE set-uop working I might be able to bring one light and a spare battery.
I am pretty sure the Urbans use the same rechargeable battery (my old Lezyne did) and if the Urbans ever die, I will find a way to replace the batteries ...If the factory can do it, so can I. Then I will bring spare batteries .... but the two-light setup is awfully nice for high speeds/bad roads.
When I get my CREE set-uop working I might be able to bring one light and a spare battery.
I am pretty sure the Urbans use the same rechargeable battery (my old Lezyne did) and if the Urbans ever die, I will find a way to replace the batteries ...If the factory can do it, so can I. Then I will bring spare batteries .... but the two-light setup is awfully nice for high speeds/bad roads.
#39
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Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,693
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From: Northeastern MA, USA
Bikes: Garmin/Tacx Bike Smart
I've been night riding for decades, so I can offer this advice: do not skimp on the headlight! There's no such thing as too much light since advanced warming of road imperfections and debris is very necessary. Get a good light. They're expensive, for sure, but worth every penny. Second, put on some "tough" tires. The last thing you want to do is change tires in the cold and dark. I switch to Conti GP 4 Season tires every fall and run them until spring. They're excellent. I've never flatted one, and they really do ride nicely. Not as fast or supple as the 4000s II, but not bad at all. After that, well, dress warm and enjoy the ride! There's no need to stay indoors just because it's dark or cold.
#40
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From: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0
#41
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From: Northeastern MA, USA
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#42
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Denver area (Ken Caryl Valley)
Bikes: 2022 Moots RCS, 2014 BMC SLR01 DA Mech, 2020 Santa Cruz Stigmata, Ibis Ripmo, Trek Top Fuel, Specialized Epic Pro, Pivot Les Fat
Look at the new Ravemen PR 1200. Maybe Planet Cyclery has them the cheapest but it has a road-focused beam as well...maybe in the 600 setting. It's cheap too ($100 or under) and one of the rare ones with a road-focused beam option. I have several German Lupines that cost me alarm and a leg but they are mainly for mountain biking and too bright for the road (too bright for oncoming traffic and cyclist) so I use an Exposure Diablo and am careful with how it points, even though it is only 1000ish lumens. I'm tempted to get the PR1200 for the winter, though most of my night rides are mountain biking so it may not be very useful in my case unless I do more road biking. Even then, I have 30-40 miles of multi-use bike paths around me and hardly anyone is on them after dark.
#43
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From: Southeast U.S.
Bikes: 2011 Fuji Absolute 3.0 -- 1997 Trek 830 (modified to hybrid)
#44
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Look at the new Ravemen PR 1200. Maybe Planet Cyclery has them the cheapest but it has a road-focused beam as well...maybe in the 600 setting. It's cheap too ($100 or under) and one of the rare ones with a road-focused beam option. I have several German Lupines that cost me alarm and a leg but they are mainly for mountain biking and too bright for the road (too bright for oncoming traffic and cyclist) so I use an Exposure Diablo and am careful with how it points, even though it is only 1000ish lumens. I'm tempted to get the PR1200 for the winter, though most of my night rides are mountain biking so it may not be very useful in my case unless I do more road biking. Even then, I have 30-40 miles of multi-use bike paths around me and hardly anyone is on them after dark.
#45
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Denver area (Ken Caryl Valley)
Bikes: 2022 Moots RCS, 2014 BMC SLR01 DA Mech, 2020 Santa Cruz Stigmata, Ibis Ripmo, Trek Top Fuel, Specialized Epic Pro, Pivot Les Fat
The main thing I like about the PR1200 is that low beam that reduces glare. The aluminum waterproof body is nice as well...I am not sure the NR is waterproof or water resistant. I like the Ravemen for the road/paths. There may be another one that is road-centric but I forget if it was Exposure or which brand. Regardless, it was way more expensive. I'm off to charge up my lights. This thread has me looking forward to evening/night rides. We actually have a long-standing MTB group that does that on Thursday nights.
#46
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The main thing I like about the PR1200 is that low beam that reduces glare. The aluminum waterproof body is nice as well...I am not sure the NR is waterproof or water resistant. I like the Ravemen for the road/paths. There may be another one that is road-centric but I forget if it was Exposure or which brand. Regardless, it was way more expensive. I'm off to charge up my lights. This thread has me looking forward to evening/night rides. We actually have a long-standing MTB group that does that on Thursday nights.
Cheers
#47
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From: Denver area (Ken Caryl Valley)
Bikes: 2022 Moots RCS, 2014 BMC SLR01 DA Mech, 2020 Santa Cruz Stigmata, Ibis Ripmo, Trek Top Fuel, Specialized Epic Pro, Pivot Les Fat
It should be decent, with 1,200 lumens. The high beam seems to throw out well. Here is a review:
Ravemen PR1200 blasts out the lumens - intelligently - BikeRadar USA
You can Google images too...there is 4-5 that I saw. I do not own this light but have been following its development for the past 6 months or so. For mountain biking, I have always used a Lupine Betty (two versions) and they are bright and wide but I'd blind people on the road...one around 2100 and the other around 3000 lumens. I also use a Lupine on the helmet but it is only 800ish lumens.
I'd get the Ravemen for the road but 1200 lumens may not suit me on singletrack here because our trails are steep and twisty so I need wide bright lights plus on on my helmet.
Ravemen PR1200 blasts out the lumens - intelligently - BikeRadar USA
You can Google images too...there is 4-5 that I saw. I do not own this light but have been following its development for the past 6 months or so. For mountain biking, I have always used a Lupine Betty (two versions) and they are bright and wide but I'd blind people on the road...one around 2100 and the other around 3000 lumens. I also use a Lupine on the helmet but it is only 800ish lumens.
I'd get the Ravemen for the road but 1200 lumens may not suit me on singletrack here because our trails are steep and twisty so I need wide bright lights plus on on my helmet.
#48
got the climbing bug

Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,268
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From: San Diego
Bikes: one for everything
great light for the dollar if doing sub 3 hour night rides. Bright enough for MTB duties if running a small one on teh helmet for corners/switchbacks. $100....is CHEAP
https://www.niterider.com/product/lumina-1100-boost/
https://www.niterider.com/product/lumina-1100-boost/
__________________
Rule #10 // It never gets easier, you just go faster.
Rule #10 // It never gets easier, you just go faster.
#49
Super WW

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 670
Likes: 43
From: NY (state)
Bikes: A really light one and a really heavy one.
Funny, it wasn't that long ago that a light & motion HID 400 lumen headlight was a big deal. Now I use a L&M Seca 2200 light on the same commute. I can see a lot more especially on the two 40+ MPH descents.
#50
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,693
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From: Northeastern MA, USA
Bikes: Garmin/Tacx Bike Smart
Not to mention those nice rechargeable tail lights.




