Stem degree.
 

I want to buy a 120mm stem but i want it negative degree at least to be parallel with the floor. Do i need to check my scott cr1 2016 sheet angles to know the exact negative degree i need to purchase?

steam is water over 100C, if at sealevel.

try math; head tube angle? how far off 90 degrees? that number is a horizontal stem, you want it to be less than horizontal?

do the calculations.

90-74 is 16, for example.







....

According to the Scott website, the CR1 has a not very steamy 70.5° to 73° head tube depending on the model.

https://www.scott-sports.com/de/de/p...tt-cr1-30-bike

That is probably a 2017 or a 2018 model, but I would guess that little has changed from 2016.

So, about a 17° to 20° degree stem (or add or subtract that from 90°), and you'll get a stem that goes out pretty straight.

You are right i was thinking about my cleaning steam...

No need to check since all frames have head angles within a narrow band on either side of 73 degrees.

So you need a 17 degree stem, sometimes called 73 degrees, and will mount it angel down to be level on top.

This

How many angels can dance on the end of a stem anyway?

roughly as many as can dance in steam.

Three.

I have more angels. (175mm. Five fit just fine.)

And to the topic - I like stems beyond horizontal so that one is -22 degrees (and a quill so it never gets flipped). The bike is probably a 73 so that makes the stem 5 degrees down.

Ben

Are you considering even lower, i.e. [MENTION=106129]timtak[/MENTION] style?

Nice. Perhaps my favorite ad of all time.

It is a classic. along with the "write on! brother write on! with the 29cent papermate writers pen!"

Or the

STEM is a good field to get a degree in

I say again, this site needs a "like post" button.

I personally like to try to match the angle of my top tube, which on my bike is sloped, so a down-turned 10* stem looks about right...while still not being quite horizontal with the ground.

Is it simply for aesthetics or actual performance/fit gains? If the former, make sure you don't have a stack of spacers as having a parallel stem setup while with a stack of spacers looks silly, IMO. If the latter, you can make adjustments by removing spacers first before installing a negative degree stem, as the overall effect is more or less the same.

As a spacer stacker, I think it looks better with the level stem. Lol

I have no spacers under my stem now. It s not only for the look of it. If i set my stem level at the top with the spacers down i feel like a pain in my back(it may sounds dumb, because usually ppl feel comfortable) but i feel more confortable more stretched. Ps. I know i will feel very uncomfortable on climbings when i will not use my seat. Grinding on climbs will not allow my back to be stretched upside and comfortable.

If you need more drop don't be afraid to consider -25 degrees. -20 looks parallel to the ground but gives you 6mm more drop than -17. There are also new stems that achieve greater drop without downward angle, for example the TOKEN TK9320A, FOURIERS Full CNC Mountain Bike Stem, Syntace Flatforce , and

FSA SL-K -20°

A way to achieve both a high bar for climbs and a low bar for flats and descending is by using a deep drop bar like the FSA Energy Ergo which is the same shape as a compact bar but with 150mm instead of 125mm drop. You might need adjustable brake levers to get a comfortable finger reach on such a deep bar. http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...2_600591_-1___

Stem calculator: http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php