Stem degree.
10-19-17 | 03:40 PM
#1
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Stem degree.
I want to buy a 120mm stem but i want it negative degree at least to be parallel with the floor. Do i need to check my scott cr1 2016 sheet angles to know the exact negative degree i need to purchase?
Last edited by flostonf; 10-19-17 at 04:18 PM.
10-19-17 | 03:48 PM
#2
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steam is water over 100C, if at sealevel.
try math; head tube angle? how far off 90 degrees? that number is a horizontal stem, you want it to be less than horizontal?
do the calculations.
90-74 is 16, for example.
....
try math; head tube angle? how far off 90 degrees? that number is a horizontal stem, you want it to be less than horizontal?
do the calculations.
90-74 is 16, for example.
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 10-19-17 at 03:53 PM.
10-19-17 | 04:00 PM
#3
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According to the Scott website, the CR1 has a not very steamy 70.5° to 73° head tube depending on the model.
https://www.scott-sports.com/de/de/p...tt-cr1-30-bike
That is probably a 2017 or a 2018 model, but I would guess that little has changed from 2016.
So, about a 17° to 20° degree stem (or add or subtract that from 90°), and you'll get a stem that goes out pretty straight.
https://www.scott-sports.com/de/de/p...tt-cr1-30-bike
That is probably a 2017 or a 2018 model, but I would guess that little has changed from 2016.
So, about a 17° to 20° degree stem (or add or subtract that from 90°), and you'll get a stem that goes out pretty straight.
10-19-17 | 04:19 PM
#4
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You are right i was thinking about my cleaning steam...
10-19-17 | 04:21 PM
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
No need to check since all frames have head angles within a narrow band on either side of 73 degrees.
So you need a 17 degree stem, sometimes called 73 degrees, and will mount it angel down to be level on top.
So you need a 17 degree stem, sometimes called 73 degrees, and will mount it angel down to be level on top.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
10-19-17 | 04:40 PM
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This
10-19-17 | 06:21 PM
#7
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10-19-17 | 06:33 PM
#8
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roughly as many as can dance in steam.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
10-19-17 | 07:06 PM
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10-19-17 | 07:15 PM
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Are you considering even lower, i.e. [MENTION=106129]timtak[/MENTION] style?
10-19-17 | 07:44 PM
#13
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It is a classic. along with the "write on! brother write on! with the 29cent papermate writers pen!"
Or the
Or the
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10-20-17 | 06:57 AM
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10-20-17 | 09:11 AM
#16
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I personally like to try to match the angle of my top tube, which on my bike is sloped, so a down-turned 10* stem looks about right...while still not being quite horizontal with the ground.
10-21-17 | 08:54 AM
#17
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Is it simply for aesthetics or actual performance/fit gains? If the former, make sure you don't have a stack of spacers as having a parallel stem setup while with a stack of spacers looks silly, IMO. If the latter, you can make adjustments by removing spacers first before installing a negative degree stem, as the overall effect is more or less the same.
10-21-17 | 09:10 AM
#18
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Is it simply for aesthetics or actual performance/fit gains? If the former, make sure you don't have a stack of spacers as having a parallel stem setup while with a stack of spacers looks silly, IMO. If the latter, you can make adjustments by removing spacers first before installing a negative degree stem, as the overall effect is more or less the same.
10-21-17 | 05:44 PM
#19
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I have no spacers under my stem now. It s not only for the look of it. If i set my stem level at the top with the spacers down i feel like a pain in my back(it may sounds dumb, because usually ppl feel comfortable) but i feel more confortable more stretched. Ps. I know i will feel very uncomfortable on climbings when i will not use my seat. Grinding on climbs will not allow my back to be stretched upside and comfortable.
10-22-17 | 11:39 AM
#20
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If you need more drop don't be afraid to consider -25 degrees. -20 looks parallel to the ground but gives you 6mm more drop than -17. There are also new stems that achieve greater drop without downward angle, for example the TOKEN TK9320A, FOURIERS Full CNC Mountain Bike Stem, Syntace Flatforce , and
A way to achieve both a high bar for climbs and a low bar for flats and descending is by using a deep drop bar like the FSA Energy Ergo which is the same shape as a compact bar but with 150mm instead of 125mm drop. You might need adjustable brake levers to get a comfortable finger reach on such a deep bar. https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...2_600591_-1___
Stem calculator: https://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php
FSA SL-K -20°
A way to achieve both a high bar for climbs and a low bar for flats and descending is by using a deep drop bar like the FSA Energy Ergo which is the same shape as a compact bar but with 150mm instead of 125mm drop. You might need adjustable brake levers to get a comfortable finger reach on such a deep bar. https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...2_600591_-1___
Stem calculator: https://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php
Last edited by Clem von Jones; 10-22-17 at 12:34 PM.
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