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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

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Old 01-12-18, 11:27 AM   #26
dmanthree
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Because you’ll be running non-tubeless tires?
Correct. I run tubes inside Conti GP 4000s II tires. I've tried tubeless, and, well, they're not for me.
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Old 01-12-18, 12:19 PM   #27
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Good carbons for $1200? Disc ready? Where?


I don't know whether you would consider them good or not, but my last wheel build was Light Bicycle disc specific carbon hoops with Chris King R45 Disc hubs, and Sapim CX Ray spokes for just under $1200.


Cost no object I would buy the Lightweights, then probably Zipp 454 NSW.
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Old 01-12-18, 12:32 PM   #28
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I looked at the Enve 4.5AR and with no hooked bead they're not for me. But the Enve brand seems to be very well regarded.
Sounds like you have a good reason for that. Honestly, I didn't realize how big a limitation tubeless-tires-only was when I bought my wheels. I mean there's great tubeless rubber, but far and away less choice. I'm still very happy with the wheels, but completely understand your reasoning.

Enve is well regarded because they're very fast, and very well built. Strong, too, and I'm a heavier rider by road standards.

Ardennes are really nice, too.
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Old 01-12-18, 12:42 PM   #29
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Uh...no. It was a curiosity question. I'll likely end up with HED Ardennes Discs for my second set of hoops.
Can't say much about the high end wheelsets but I do own a set of the he'd Ardennes plus and I'm s bigger rider at 230 lbs great set of wheels for only a thousand bucks 10 thousand miles later and stil as true as day one
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Old 01-12-18, 05:28 PM   #30
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If "cost were no object" I would not buy clinchers nor center lock disc brakes.
That's what I was thinking, too.

Yes, it's kind of funny to say "cost is no object" when in the end, it IS (getting a new bike in the bargain if necessary to get the most ideal wheels), but it is fair to stipulate practical considerations other than the cost of the thing itself.
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Old 01-12-18, 07:03 PM   #31
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CX75 hub with Dura Ace ti freehub, cx rays, the Venn 35mm clincher rims. I like the look of their weave.

I'm easy to please.

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Old 01-12-18, 11:17 PM   #32
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Just curious, if cost were no object what wheels would you buy? Criteria:

700C road wheels, clinchers, center lock disc brakes.
Cheap alloy.
As when cost is no object I don't buy clinchers or disc brake wheels.
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Old 01-13-18, 04:22 PM   #33
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Cheap alloy.
As when cost is no object I don't buy clinchers or disc brake wheels.
OK for you, but my bike seems to like discs. I think it's the lack of caliper brakes that's the reason.

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Old 01-13-18, 04:24 PM   #34
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That's what I was thinking, too.

Yes, it's kind of funny to say "cost is no object" when in the end, it IS (getting a new bike in the bargain if necessary to get the most ideal wheels), but it is fair to stipulate practical considerations other than the cost of the thing itself.
It was just a curiosity question, nothing more. Of course, in reality cost is *always* a consideration for me. But asking a question like this can be interesting since there's lots of stuff out there I didn't know existed. Like the Lightweight brand wheels. Clearly out of my price range, but pretty interesting nonetheless.
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Old 01-13-18, 04:35 PM   #35
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Don't forget Zipp discs for the rear

Zipp also makes some unique front wheels too.
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Old 01-13-18, 04:43 PM   #36
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Id build them rather than buy something with proprietary parts ..

My current front hub. Schmidt Delux Dynohub , 3 cross 32 hole.. it is a Centerlock disc.

Rear Hub 32 hole Rohloff , they use a 4 bolt disc, 65 mm, uses chain ring bolts

(but its close enough to allow a 64mm chain ring to work too, some builders used the hub as a mid drive)


I ride the bike on the road, so it counts..





....
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Old 01-13-18, 06:34 PM   #37
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OK for you, but my bike seems to like discs. I think it's the lack of caliper brakes that's the reason.

When cost is no object you change the frame - and get the right brakes to fit the wheels.
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Old 01-13-18, 06:36 PM   #38
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When cost is no object you change the frame - and get the right brakes to fit the wheels.
OK, but if go down that road, you'd never need to buy upgraded wheels in the first place, right?
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Old 01-13-18, 06:37 PM   #39
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Id build them rather than buy something with proprietary parts ..

My current front hub. Schmidt Delux Dynohub , 3 cross 32 hole.. it is a Centerlock disc.

Rear Hub 32 hole Rohloff , they use a 4 bolt disc, 65 mm, uses chain ring bolts

(but its close enough to allow a 64mm chain ring to work too, some builders used the hub as a mid drive)


I ride the bike on the road, so it counts..


....
How do you like the Rohloff hub? I've never ridden one. Fat bike?
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Old 01-13-18, 06:46 PM   #40
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OK, but if go down that road, you'd never need to buy upgraded wheels in the first place, right?
Things change and application changes. There are always new things to buy.
I grew up around dirt roads and the idea that one could ride on pavement seemed like a final thing for me. Why would anyone ride dirt? Well, as civilization moves one, road racing now has dirt, mud. There is MTB, cross, snow/fat...

But there are some things I have that are very old and still very good. My kid will be racing a Pro TT on a tri-spoke carbon wheel made about 20 years ago. Is it as good as the latest HED - likely not. But maybe. I own a disc (no spoke kind) that only takes a 10speed cassette. It also works pretty good too. There are pros and cons to all this.

For pavement, without grit (as in rain/snow) cost no object and ax-lightness is superior to anything I've owned (Zipp, HED, Nimble, Easton, Mercury - 20-30 carbon, 50 or so alloy wheels). An 800g set is pretty cool. I got one set this year, I'll likely get a disc set next year - for cross. But as I said, for road, I just wouldn't do disc or clincher if money was no object. But it usually is.
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Old 01-14-18, 09:31 AM   #41
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When cost is no object you change the frame - and get the right brakes to fit the wheels.
Mileage varies, obv. If cost were no object for me, I'd still have a bike that takes discs.
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Old 01-14-18, 09:48 AM   #42
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Mileage varies, obv. If cost were no object for me, I'd still have a bike that takes discs.
Like many threads we don't define what better is before we all go about saying what is better.
I could see living in certain places, weather, terrain where I might choose a bike that takes discs. But I don't live in those places and brakes to me are things that need to work real well, but are not used much at all.

I have started riding 50mm profile carbon clinchers with latex tubes and supple tires for convenience. Because they are almost as good as tubulars I've ridden for years and glue for my kid. But if money were no object I'd be on the tubulars and have someone bring me a new one every flat. Junior had that luxury up until he didn't live at home. For a given weight, on a dry road, requiring minimal braking the "best" tubular setup with rim brakes will accelerate/decelerate faster, take higher g corners, and be less likely to fail than a clincher disc.

Then there is the support part/what to do if there is a problem. If you always go solo, a non issue. If you ride with others where sometimes someone carries support stuff, it matters. This week I was at cross nats in Reno and got talking to the Shimano guy. He had spares in disc with 3 rotor sizes, 2 through axle sizes and QR (9 permutation for disc), and then QR rim brakes - 1 option. If "best" means also how to most likely get support, that is a factor too. At big events, the big support company might have 100 wheels (about what Shimano had in Reno). At smaller fondo, group fun rides etc. it is nice to have something that can be supported by two wheels on the back of a scooter.
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Old 01-14-18, 10:21 AM   #43
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How do you like the Rohloff hub? I've never ridden one. Fat bike?
No, fat rider.. Bike Friday Pocket Llama, disc, with Trekking bars , a Touring bike that folds into a suitcase
to fly to tours..
works better in 406-47 wheels than in larger..

even deeper within the 2.35:1 low gear minimum, than the 16: 38 for 26"

same range is 16:53.. turning the 20" wheel..

IGH advantage gear changes at any speed , even stopped, with an ever so slight coasting.. gears in an oil coated clean environment..



Although, If you want a Fat bike they now have an extra wide hub model for those drivetrains ..

https://www.rohloff.de/en/products/speedhub/variant
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