After much oohing, aaahing, toing, and froing... I have come to the realisation that I can't use 25s at the front, i need 23s.
BOTHER. That's what you get for having a 12 year old frame i suppose.

If ever there was a reason to get another bicycle...

Seriously though, I've been a roadie for over 25 years (yikes) and this whole "wider is better" thing really surprises me and is one of the best changes to road cycling (IMHO) that has come about in recent times. Most of my cycling days were spent on 23C tires and the change to 25C made me feel like I was riding around on motorcycle tires. However, my latest bike has 32C tires and rims with a 25mm internal width and I absolutely love the combination... and I didn't think I would. If you're into "Everesting", then perhaps this combination won't work due to the added weight, but for normal people on normal roads (or gravel) on normal rides, there's a reason why wider wheels and tires are becoming popular. While average speed isn't a great indicator of anything, I find that my average speed on my daily rides hasn't really suffered at all with my new fatty wheels and tires. I think part of the reason for this is that I can now ride over the nasty, bumpy rides I normally ride on with more comfort which eventually equates to more speed. My 2 cents.

I keep struggling to pull the trigger. If I am running exclusively 30 or 32c tubeless tires on the road, (2019 Cannondale Synapse Carbon Disc Ultegra) should I opt for the AR46 or WR45. Any and all advice is much appreciated!

With wide tires, absolutely go with wide rims (i.e., WR series). The AR series are for riders who's bikes either can't support a wide rim or are riding narrower tires (25mm or 28mm).

+1

AR56(23mm internal width) or WR45(25mm internal width) are the two that I'd be looking at.

The WR comes in at 1537 grams and $996.40. AR at 1507 grams and $956.40 configured the same. While 30grams is probably imperceptible, am I correct to believe the WR would be more aero with 30 or 32c tires and worth the extra $40 and 30 grams?

Unless you're building a wheelset for Everesting (i.e., climbing for hours and hours and hours...), then aero > weight, especially when we're only talking 30 grams.

Are you custom configuring the wheels or buying a pre-made wheelset? If you customize, you can get the wheels down to a crazy light weight largely by selecting a light weight hub. There is also a "Flyweight" carbon fiber rim option when building the custom wheels to minimize weight if you're not a heavy rider.

I configured them with the North America options which are pretty straight forward. Unfortunately for me, cost is a consideration so I'm trying to balance all the typical criteria. It seems the DT350 with ratchet upgrade is a great hub albeit not the lightest. I'm close to the limit for flyweight so that's out.

I personally would hold-off on ordering, perhaps until next year, if you're going with the DT Swiss 350 hubs. I can only assume it'll be a matter of months when DT updates those hubs to have the new Ratchet EXP design that the new 180 and 240 hubs have. It's a much lighter design with fewer pieces. I ended-up ordering from their Global warehouse to get the new DT 240 EXP hubs because the sales person said they wouldn't be in the North America warehouse for several months yet.

Interesting. Yeah, I'm not in any huge hurry really.

8 weeks, order to door, Dt Swiss 350's with R45 no drill rims.
All set and ready to ride, after the thunderstorms clear out tomorrow.
Came very well packaged with skewers and extra star ratchets.

Very well packaged, and matched the picture they sent with shipping notification. They had lots of padding in all the right places, and everything was very secure.
The fit and finish of the wheel build see, is first rate. The brake pads required a little massaging to get in the holder, some left over flashing was not cleaned off.

Curious to know how those pads feel. I think a lot of us skipped them and went straight to something more well known.

Did you do the graphene brake track?

It looks like the standard brake track.

This is my first set of carbon rims, so take that into consideration. The braking is ok, but not stellar, it does stop, but I haven't locked a wheel up yet. In the 70 miles I have put on them, I noticed a little pas transfer to the rim, but no significant wear.
Yes,
No, it's the grooved graphene track.

AR46 turned up in the mail today.

First wheelset to rip the skin off the inside of my fingers mounting a tyre...

No levers though

Hey everybody, so I just put in an order from Light Bicycle, and when I asked about the rear wheel lacing pattern, they told me they use 2X on the drive side, but zero cross on the non-drive side. I'm a little bit concerned about that, I've never had a rear wheel with a radially laced non-drive side, all my other wheels are 2X both sides. The hub uses J-bend spokes too, which I know can't be brought up as high as straight pull. Before I reply to them, I wanted to get some feedback if anyone else has this rear wheel lacing pattern? Also, if anyone has had a "custom" lacing pattern, did it cost extra to deviate from their standard lacing pattern? And of course, does anyone else have one of their wheels with this pattern, and does it ride ok? Thanks!

I've built a couple wheelsets with 16:8 lacing in the rear. In terms of building them up--16:8 is easier--not just because you don't have to do 2x on one side but because spoke tensions are more even on both sides which is helpful. Performance-wise, I'm not a good enough rider to notice a real difference between that and 2x all the way around--or even 3x. I've never been offered this lacing pattern by LB. What hubs are you using?

Straight pull doesn’t allow any flexibility with lacing, so my wheelset was 2x both sides. I would recommend going 2x both sides. You get more torsional stiffness that way. Ie there are more spokes transferring the hub torque to the rim. If you’re getting a disc brake wheelset, it’s a no brainer.

My OE wheelset came radial/2x. In the easiest gear, the spokes would bow out so much that they would skim the derailleur cage. But to be fair, the spokes on that wheelset were horrible.

The benefit of radial/2x is that it looks somewhat cool, you save a couple a grams, and it’s infinitesimally more aero. In some cases, you could have more lateral stiffness (depends on whether spoke heads face in or out). The con is that you have less drive stiffness. This can cause detensioning of spokes under high torque. It can cause derailleur rub like in my case (but it’s highly unlikely). It could also create a worse feel under power.

Thanks, that's what I thought. I'll ask them to change to 2X both sides. Don't see why they'd not be able to do that.

What color decals did you get? Very understated. I like them.

Anyone buy wheels with the WR50 rims?

I have 2 friends who bought them. Any questions?

it’s clear he just wants to know if someone has bought them, so you answered his questions.