Light Bicycle Wheels
03-20-19, 10:27 AM
#201
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Good question, I just assumed they would re-use the spokes that are already on the wheels, which are j-bend. There seem to be a lot of conflicting posts about straight pull vs. j-bend.
I was looking at the gear upgrade, some people say it's not needed for the road and that it just adds more drag. I can def see the benefit for mountain biking where you want the fastest engagement you can get. I'm also reading that the lower engagement (larger teeth) might be better for people that put out a fair amount of power. I'll ride it on the 18t and see how it feels, and keep researching, but at least the option is there and it looks pretty easy to upgrade later.
I was looking at the gear upgrade, some people say it's not needed for the road and that it just adds more drag. I can def see the benefit for mountain biking where you want the fastest engagement you can get. I'm also reading that the lower engagement (larger teeth) might be better for people that put out a fair amount of power. I'll ride it on the 18t and see how it feels, and keep researching, but at least the option is there and it looks pretty easy to upgrade later.
I wonder if they will re-use the spokes you have, because the lengths might be different. Too long is no big deal, as they can roll a few more threads if needed, but there's no way to make them longer.
03-20-19, 10:32 AM
#202
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The OE wheelset will be used for any gravel riding.
03-20-19, 11:12 AM
#203
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EDIT: Also, as much as I know I'll curse myself for this, does anyone know anything about how LB deals with requests for internal nipples? Is it recommended? I saw someone do it on weightweenies and I see a graphic on the LB page as well. I figure if I'm going aero, I may as well go all the way...
"While we can do internal nipples and they are marginally more aerodynamic and aesthetically pleasing, they are incredibly difficult to build with and and true. They're much more time consuming that a traditional rim. It doesn't make the rim any stronger or weaker. It's mainly an option for elite riders that are looking for every slight aero advantage they can get. It's not an option I would recommend for the every day rider.
The best way to have a lighter option for the rims is to actually build with lighter spokes. That will give you a little more compliance and save you weight. For example, if we were to build you a RR56C02 rim that was 200g lighter, it wouldn't change the compliance of the rim. That is determined by the shape of the rim itself. If you're looking for a lighter rim that is more compliant, I suggest going with a rim that is more shallow."
The best way to have a lighter option for the rims is to actually build with lighter spokes. That will give you a little more compliance and save you weight. For example, if we were to build you a RR56C02 rim that was 200g lighter, it wouldn't change the compliance of the rim. That is determined by the shape of the rim itself. If you're looking for a lighter rim that is more compliant, I suggest going with a rim that is more shallow."
03-20-19, 11:35 AM
#204
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WHAT’S WITH THE INTERNAL NIPPLES?
Maybe worth the read.
03-20-19, 11:57 AM
#205
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WHAT’S WITH THE INTERNAL NIPPLES?
Maybe worth the read.
I assume LB's internal nipple system looks like #2 (which is garbage) and their external nipple system looks like #4 (which is bad but not as bad). My Boyd Altamont rim has the same issue - the spoke bends almost violently at the nipple. I'm going to ask LB and see if they do angled spoke drilling... I'm confused as to why this isn't standard practice. Just a slight angle seems like it would go a long way.
03-20-19, 12:03 PM
#206
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I've read that... and what's scary is that they're sort of right.
I assume LB's internal nipple system looks like #2 (which is garbage) and their external nipple system looks like #4 (which is bad but not as bad). My Boyd Altamont rim has the same issue - the spoke bends almost violently at the nipple. I'm going to ask LB and see if they do angled spoke drilling... I'm confused as to why this isn't standard practice. Just a slight angle seems like it would go a long way.
I assume LB's internal nipple system looks like #2 (which is garbage) and their external nipple system looks like #4 (which is bad but not as bad). My Boyd Altamont rim has the same issue - the spoke bends almost violently at the nipple. I'm going to ask LB and see if they do angled spoke drilling... I'm confused as to why this isn't standard practice. Just a slight angle seems like it would go a long way.
Last edited by Marcus_Ti; 03-20-19 at 12:07 PM.
03-20-19, 12:09 PM
#207
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You could ask, but I doubt it. They specify on their rims, "Spoke Hole Angle ±6°...and state in their building guidelines that the spoke holes are angled. I don't think any half decent rim comes with spoke holes drilled with no bracing angle at all....except for rims specifically drilled asymmetrically.
I wonder why LB doesn’t recommend the internal nipples then... besides the (rare) truing job, shouldn’t it be fine with angled spoke holes?
03-20-19, 12:38 PM
#208
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Truing on more of a *****. Spoke replacement would be too. Your weight and riding conditions determine how much of a problem this might be. You can hit something (pothole, big enough crack) at speed and three spoke can unwind a bit even with stiff rims.
03-20-19, 10:06 PM
#210
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I've read that... and what's scary is that they're sort of right.
I assume LB's internal nipple system looks like #2 (which is garbage) and their external nipple system looks like #4 (which is bad but not as bad). My Boyd Altamont rim has the same issue - the spoke bends almost violently at the nipple. I'm going to ask LB and see if they do angled spoke drilling... I'm confused as to why this isn't standard practice. Just a slight angle seems like it would go a long way.
I assume LB's internal nipple system looks like #2 (which is garbage) and their external nipple system looks like #4 (which is bad but not as bad). My Boyd Altamont rim has the same issue - the spoke bends almost violently at the nipple. I'm going to ask LB and see if they do angled spoke drilling... I'm confused as to why this isn't standard practice. Just a slight angle seems like it would go a long way.
It's not as big of a problem as the diagrams make it seem.
How many spokes have you seen broken at the nipple? I'm not asking about those damaged in a crash, but those spokes that have broken from fatigue at the nipple.
03-20-19, 10:13 PM
#211
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Anyway it’s (hopefully) irrelevant to this thread. LB angles their spoke holes so we don’t have to worry. I asked the global people what the deal is with their internal nipples so maybe we’ll get an official answer.
03-20-19, 10:45 PM
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I don’t know. I was anticipating something along the lines of “The eyelet direction doesn’t affect the quality of the build if you know what you’re doing”
My point was that a lot of people don’t know what they’re doing, so any feature that makes it easier to not screw up is probably a good thing.
My point was that a lot of people don’t know what they’re doing, so any feature that makes it easier to not screw up is probably a good thing.
03-20-19, 11:18 PM
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03-21-19, 12:48 AM
#217
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If you're talking about Pro Ones, there fantastic tires and I don't want to make it sound otherwise. They grip like a dream. Very low rolling resistance. Corner with confidence. Just keep them on the pavement.
03-21-19, 12:50 AM
#218
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Edit to add: I'm following this thread because I've been wanting a second nice wheel set and it sounds like out of all the options that aren't outrageously expensive, this is a very good one.
03-21-19, 05:16 AM
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I had a DT hub with the 18t gear, and it always felt a little odd when you would start pedaling(a little more lag than most hubs), but it might not bother you. It's a simple upgrade if you decide to change it later.
I wonder if they will re-use the spokes you have, because the lengths might be different. Too long is no big deal, as they can roll a few more threads if needed, but there's no way to make them longer.
I wonder if they will re-use the spokes you have, because the lengths might be different. Too long is no big deal, as they can roll a few more threads if needed, but there's no way to make them longer.
They said they'll re-use the spokes only if they fit, otherwise it'll be new ones.
03-21-19, 05:54 AM
#220
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I'm trying to figure out what the POE is for the Novatec hubs, so I can compare with what to expect with the 18t. There was a bit of lag when starting off with the Novatecs too, so probably similar.
They said they'll re-use the spokes only if they fit, otherwise it'll be new ones.
They said they'll re-use the spokes only if they fit, otherwise it'll be new ones.
edited to add the torch hubs have a 60t drive ring
Last edited by robbyville; 03-21-19 at 07:17 AM.
03-21-19, 07:11 AM
#221
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I'm trying to figure out what the POE is for the Novatec hubs, so I can compare with what to expect with the 18t. There was a bit of lag when starting off with the Novatecs too, so probably similar.
They said they'll re-use the spokes only if they fit, otherwise it'll be new ones.
They said they'll re-use the spokes only if they fit, otherwise it'll be new ones.
03-21-19, 07:41 AM
#222
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I was actually talking about the Conti 5000 TL’s which I have on right now, but I agree about the Schwalbe’s as well I’ve had a couple of sets. I generally try a new TL tire with almost every change!
If this is important to you and since your wheels are at the North American distributor you should ask them about the Industry Nine hubs, noted for incredibly fast engagement (unless that’s marketing spiel). I’ve had a couple of sets including on my LB’s and love them.
edited to add the torch hubs have a 60t drive ring
If this is important to you and since your wheels are at the North American distributor you should ask them about the Industry Nine hubs, noted for incredibly fast engagement (unless that’s marketing spiel). I’ve had a couple of sets including on my LB’s and love them.
edited to add the torch hubs have a 60t drive ring
Thanks, I couldn't find it anywhere. So it'll be interesting to see if it feels much different with the 18t. If there's too much hesitation, I'll just do the 36t upgrade. I think the 56t would be too much, I do a good amount of fast descending, the sound would bug me. lol
03-21-19, 07:54 AM
#223
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the problem is not the bearings but the design of the hub seal, I have had 2 novatec hubs from cheapo Chinese OEM, bearings were shot after low mileage, considering the price difference is only $100, it is a no brainer, plus with DT you get access to XDR and Micro spline freehubs in case you want to go 12 speed
Last edited by Chi_Z; 03-21-19 at 08:06 AM.
03-21-19, 08:28 AM
#224
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Thanks, I couldn't find it anywhere. So it'll be interesting to see if it feels much different with the 18t. If there's too much hesitation, I'll just do the 36t upgrade. I think the 56t would be too much, I do a good amount of fast descending, the sound would bug me. lol
03-21-19, 08:56 AM
#225
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I've had 2 sets of Novatec 291/482 hubs, and always got 10k miles out of the bearings, but mine did not have cheapo Chinese OEM bearings. Bearing quality makes a huge difference in Novatec hubs.