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Pulling the trigger on wheels, Reynolds AR vs ARx

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Pulling the trigger on wheels, Reynolds AR vs ARx

Old 02-02-19, 01:19 PM
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OUGrad05
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Pulling the trigger on wheels, Reynolds AR vs ARx

I'm struggling to find the difference in these wheels:
https://reynoldscycling.com/collecti...cts/ar-41-x-db

https://reynoldscycling.com/collecti...ducts/ar-41-db

I've found a couple articles that say it's the hubs and spokes and that it's worth the extra $ to pony up for the ARx. Certainly not opposed but am struggling with what exactly that difference is. Does anyone have experience with these or can point me to an article that perhaps I missed in my research?

Probably ordering from LBS Monday or Tues.
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Old 02-02-19, 04:54 PM
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i would get the AR just for the cleaner look
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Old 02-02-19, 05:19 PM
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You're saving about 100 grams, which may or may not be important to you.

They both look good, I prefer the look of the less expensive ones myself. I only had a quick look at the specs, not sure if the depth and width are the same on both. I ride wheels with specs like the second pair and love them. The giant internal width will make your tires wider than the number on the package.
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Old 02-02-19, 05:29 PM
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The first wheelset is super duper incredibly hard to mount tires, and the second one is impossible.
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Old 02-02-19, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Sojodave View Post
The first wheelset is super duper incredibly hard to mount tires, and the second one is impossible.
Why do you say that?
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Old 02-02-19, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Seattle Forrest View Post
You're saving about 100 grams, which may or may not be important to you.

They both look good, I prefer the look of the less expensive ones myself. I only had a quick look at the specs, not sure if the depth and width are the same on both. I ride wheels with specs like the second pair and love them. The giant internal width will make your tires wider than the number on the package.
CNC machined hubs and slightly less weight on the more expensive set.
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Old 02-02-19, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by OUGrad05 View Post
Why do you say that?
There's sort of a lottery, the combination of rims and tires can be just fine, or can teach you new ways to curse. It's a double edged sword, if you run them tubeless you want a tight fit, you don't want to lose air when you corner hard. Other people can probably fill in more detail.

I ride IRC road light, they're a ***** to get on my rims. On the other hand, they went on six months ago and haven't had to come off since. Tubeless just doesn't flat, almost ever in road riding, and people disagree but my experience is bigger tires are less flat prone, even light ones. So being hard to mount is really ****ing annoying, but it's not something that comes up often. Trying to give some perspective.
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Old 02-02-19, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Seattle Forrest View Post
There's sort of a lottery, the combination of rims and tires can be just fine, or can teach you new ways to curse. It's a double edged sword, if you run them tubeless you want a tight fit, you don't want to lose air when you corner hard. Other people can probably fill in more detail.

I ride IRC road light, they're a ***** to get on my rims. On the other hand, they went on six months ago and haven't had to come off since. Tubeless just doesn't flat, almost ever in road riding, and people disagree but my experience is bigger tires are less flat prone, even light ones. So being hard to mount is really ****ing annoying, but it's not something that comes up often. Trying to give some perspective.
Thanka for that input. I plan to run GP5000s and with tubes. So maybe less of an issue?
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Old 02-02-19, 10:35 PM
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I dunno. Probably the only way to find out is to find out. It looks like they have a 30 day return period, I would verify the details if it was me, and buy them.

Also, you should give tubeless a try if you buy tubeless rims. See what the fuss is about. You're going to want ~30 mm of rubber for aerodynamic reasons (probably 28s will do this) which means lower pressure - this is where tubeless starts coming into its own.

If you buy these, come back and post some photos.
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Old 02-03-19, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by OUGrad05 View Post
I'm struggling to find the difference in these wheels:
https://reynoldscycling.com/collecti...cts/ar-41-x-db

https://reynoldscycling.com/collecti...ducts/ar-41-db

I've found a couple articles that say it's the hubs and spokes and that it's worth the extra $ to pony up for the ARx. Certainly not opposed but am struggling with what exactly that difference is. Does anyone have experience with these or can point me to an article that perhaps I missed in my research?

Probably ordering from LBS Monday or Tues.
Found the difference in five seconds.
  • Features Sapim Cx-sprint Bladed Spokes With Lightweight Alloy Nipples
  • Features Sapim Sprint Spokes With Brass Nipples
Alloy nipples are lighter so the ARx is lighter overall but IME they are not worth it. Once they start breaking it's a downhill slide. You'll wind up having the whole wheelset rebuilt with brass nipples anyway.

Originally Posted by Sojodave View Post
The first wheelset is super duper incredibly hard to mount tires, and the second one is impossible.
+1. My buddy got these on a used bike he bought and will be selling them because there is no way to do road side maintenance on this wheelset. The tires are just flipping impossible to get on/off.
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Old 02-03-19, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by shoota View Post
Found the difference in five seconds.
  • Features Sapim Cx-sprint Bladed Spokes With Lightweight Alloy Nipples
  • Features Sapim Sprint Spokes With Brass Nipples
Alloy nipples are lighter so the ARx is lighter overall but IME they are not worth it. Once they start breaking it's a downhill slide. You'll wind up having the whole wheelset rebuilt with brass nipples anyway.



+1. My buddy got these on a used bike he bought and will be selling them because there is no way to do road side maintenance on this wheelset. The tires are just flipping impossible to get on/off.
What drives that impossibility?
These Zipps are also under consideration:
https://www.zipp.com/wheels/30-cours...ake-clincher/#

I'm certainly open to other suggestions, absolute max budget is $1,500.

I like the width of those Reynolds, ideally you'll have a rim that's slightly wider than your tire for improve aerodynamics. So far this is only reasonably lightweight wheel I've found that offers a decent internal width and external width.
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Old 02-03-19, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by OUGrad05 View Post
What drives that impossibility?
These Zipps are also under consideration:
https://www.zipp.com/wheels/30-cours...ake-clincher/#

I'm certainly open to other suggestions, absolute max budget is $1,500.

I like the width of those Reynolds, ideally you'll have a rim that's slightly wider than your tire for improve aerodynamics. So far this is only reasonably lightweight wheel I've found that offers a decent internal width and external width.
Check out Hunt's offerings if you haven't already. They get resoundingly good reviews:
Gravel: https://www.huntbikewheels.cc/collections/gravel-wheels
Road/CX: https://www.huntbikewheels.cc/collections/road-wheels
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Last edited by shoota; 02-03-19 at 08:42 AM.
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Old 02-03-19, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by shoota View Post
Check out Hunt's offerings if you haven't already. They get resoundingly good reviews:
Gravel: https://www.huntbikewheels.cc/collections/gravel-wheels
Road/CX: https://www.huntbikewheels.cc/collections/road-wheels
Those hunt's are re-branded Chinese OEM, for the same price they are charging, you can get the same rim with Chris King hubs
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Old 02-03-19, 11:36 AM
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I have Reynolds carbon rims that are tubeless ready. I just got Continental 5000 clinchers I spent about two hours getting them on. My thumbs are still soar. I'm scared to death to get a flat on the road.
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Old 02-03-19, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Campag4life View Post
You gave the OP wrong information. I am correcting you. 30mm tires aren't more aero than 25mm tires.
I want the OP to make an informed decision and not be misled.
My LBS can also get DT Swiss and Mavic, along with Zipp. Some of the others that were in contention earlier, but perhaps should be reconsidered in light of posts here:

https://www.zipp.com/wheels/30-cours...ake-clincher/#

https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/...600-spline-32/

https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/...1400-dicut-21/

My Ksyrium Disc was also on the list but they have odd max pressure ratings and are super narrow internal widths...
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Old 02-03-19, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by OUGrad05 View Post
My LBS can also get DT Swiss and Mavic, along with Zipp. Some of the others that were in contention earlier, but perhaps should be reconsidered in light of posts here:

https://www.zipp.com/wheels/30-cours...ake-clincher/#

https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/...600-spline-32/

https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/...1400-dicut-21/

My Ksyrium Disc was also on the list but they have odd max pressure ratings and are super narrow internal widths...
Those Zipps would be a serious contender for me.
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Old 02-03-19, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by OUGrad05 View Post
My LBS can also get DT Swiss and Mavic, along with Zipp. Some of the others that were in contention earlier, but perhaps should be reconsidered in light of posts here:

https://www.zipp.com/wheels/30-cours...ake-clincher/#

https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/...600-spline-32/

https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/...1400-dicut-21/

My Ksyrium Disc was also on the list but they have odd max pressure ratings and are super narrow internal widths...
Honestly, there are no losers in your list. They are all excellent and have a big following. What you will need to do is make a priority list if you want to decide 'parametrically' what you desire in a wheel...including price.
There are many variables to consider. Looks as it turns out is probably the biggest reason people drop big money on deep section carbon wheels. I know this isn't a flattering side of human nature but the reality.

You can drive yourself crazy studying and deciding on the individual metrics...truthfully...from rim internal width to wheel section depth for aerodynamics...to even rear hub sound. Ease of maintenance factors in as well. Then their are custom wheels you choose from...have your wheels built to your spec's.

Not an easy selection. Perhaps one of the biggest decisions is what you were talking about before is tubeless versus clincher. Different camps divided.

Good luck.
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Old 02-03-19, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Campag4life View Post
Honestly, there are no losers in your list. They are all excellent and have a big following. What you will need to do is make a priority list if you want to decide 'parametrically' what you desire in a wheel...including price.
There are many variables to consider. Looks as it turns out is probably the biggest reason people drop big money on deep section carbon wheels. I know this isn't a flattering side of human nature but the reality.

You can drive yourself crazy studying and deciding on the individual metrics...truthfully...from rim internal width to wheel section depth for aerodynamics...to even rear hub sound. Ease of maintenance factors in as well. Then their are custom wheels you choose from...have your wheels built to your spec's.

Not an easy selection. Perhaps one of the biggest decisions is what you were talking about before is tubeless versus clincher. Different camps divided.

Good luck.
Looks are one thing, but I'm more of a function guy which is why the Reynolds got my attention. Their width and medium depth caught me as having the most aerodynamic advantages even if they look a bit bland. However, ability to mount a tire without spending tons of time is also important. Very important actually in the event you have a flat.

Zipps are excellent for sure, the DTSwiss are very narrow which is disappointing. Maybe Zipp is the answer...I can pony up for great carbon's later...so damn confusing
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Old 02-03-19, 06:56 PM
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Some misinformed replies. I was able to mount Vittoria Corsas on my ARX 58/62 wheels without even using a tire lever. Mounting/dismounting clinchers is a piece of cake.

I did a lot of research before pulling the trigger on these wheels. I couldn't find another wheelset that were deep section (60mm), wide (30mm), relatively light at sub 1700g for only $1600. Pretty unbeatable in terms of value.

Very impressed with these wheels so far. Very fast yet manageable in crosswinds. I love how they are completely flush with my 28mm tires.







Last edited by AlgaeHater; 02-03-19 at 07:05 PM.
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Old 02-03-19, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by AlgaeHater View Post
Some misinformed replies. I was able to mount Vittoria Corsas on my ARX 58/62 wheels without even using a tire lever. Mounting/dismounting clinchers is a piece of cake.

I did a lot of research before pulling the trigger on these wheels. I couldn't find another wheelset that were deep section (60mm), wide (30mm), relatively light at sub 1700g for only $1600. Pretty unbeatable in terms of value.

Very impressed with these wheels so far. Very fast yet manageable in crosswinds. I love how they are completely flush with my 28mm tires.






What brand 28mm tire? I'm going to run GP5000s on whatever I decide to get, preferably the 28mm, just wondering if I won't have to go with the 25c since those tires will ride and roll wider on a rim that wide...

I'm wondering if my LBS can shed some light on the tire mounting issue.
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Old 03-05-19, 06:26 AM
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I'm also about to pull the trigger on a set of reynolds AR58x.

I'm interested in the statements above about it being difficult to mont tyres on these? I know that the older strike and assault wheels had this issue but was hoping this would be fixed for the newer ar(x) series wheels? Can the above users confirm they are talking about the new wheels or the older ones?

Cheers.

P.s. this was the reply from reynolds when I asked the same question as the OP...
"The x model has bladed spokes, alloy nipples, and much better graphics. Non-x model, brass nipples, round spokes, vinyl decals. Hub on X model is slightly better finish, with same internals."
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Old 03-05-19, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by OUGrad05 View Post
What brand 28mm tire? I'm going to run GP5000s on whatever I decide to get, preferably the 28mm, just wondering if I won't have to go with the 25c since those tires will ride and roll wider on a rim that wide...

I'm wondering if my LBS can shed some light on the tire mounting issue.
Measured width
My GP4000S tires on aluminum HED Ardennes+ rims: The rims are 20.5mm internal width, 25 external. I suppose carbon rims would be somewhat wider for the same internal width?

23mm tires: 26mm wide. These worked great. Just 1mm wider then the outside width!
25mm tires: 29 mm wide. Switched to these, since they are only 10-20 grams heavier. at 170 pounds, I use 65 psi front, 80 psi rear. I might go 70-75 front and 85 rear on very smooth roads, or for fast group rides where I might be more likely to slam a pothole that's not called out in time.

~~~~~~
Difficult mounting
(back in 2010!) I got some new wheels that were extremely difficult to mount tires. Even with just one bead on the rim and no tube installed, I couldn't slide the tire around to line up the label with the valve hole. That's tight!

I had mangled levers and sore fingers after getting the first tire mounted. How would I ever do this out on the road?

But I found an easy method. Two levers to remove a tire, only one needed to mount it. The key is to lift just an inch or less of the bead over the rim, then slide the lever and repeat. Fast and easy.
See this thread for details: Tight tire

I don't have experience with carbon rims, though.

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Old 03-05-19, 07:28 AM
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Fwiw, in spokes and lacing over on Slowtwitch its been said for aero that two spokes is worth about 10mm depth in the rim and bladed versus normal can mean a lot.

I would never own aero wheels without aero spokes. Period. It matters that much.
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Old 03-05-19, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by burnthesheep View Post
Fwiw, in spokes and lacing over on Slowtwitch its been said for aero that two spokes is worth about 10mm depth in the rim and bladed versus normal can mean a lot.

I would never own aero wheels without aero spokes. Period. It matters that much.
I thought "bladed" spokes, the wide, flattened ones, were actually less aero than round when the wind is to the side. The CXray ovalized spokes are more aero, and stronger than round spokes.

But I'm pretty sure they save 1-2 watts per wheel.
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Old 03-05-19, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by rm -rf View Post
I thought "bladed" spokes, the wide, flattened ones, were actually less aero than round when the wind is to the side. The CXray ovalized spokes are more aero, and stronger than round spokes.

But I'm pretty sure they save 1-2 watts per wheel.
Sorry, I meant the ovalized CXray or DT Swiss spokes. You are correct.
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