Need to diagnose problem
#1
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Farmington Hills, MI
Bikes: 2017 Specialized Roubaix Sport SL4
Need to diagnose problem
I posted this on the Bicycle Mechanics forum here but it’s quickly scrolling down the page so I’ll try here:
I own a 2017 Specialized Roubaix SL4 Sport which I bought NOS earlier this year. It uses the 105 5800 11speed with 11-32t derailleurs and shifters and Praxis cranks and BB.
I’m having an issue with a sporadic clicking sound when pedaling. It doesn’t seem to be related to the gear I’m in and I just had the dealer adjust the derailleurs. They shift perfectly and there’s no chain rub.
Any thoughts on where this clicking is coming from?
I own a 2017 Specialized Roubaix SL4 Sport which I bought NOS earlier this year. It uses the 105 5800 11speed with 11-32t derailleurs and shifters and Praxis cranks and BB.
I’m having an issue with a sporadic clicking sound when pedaling. It doesn’t seem to be related to the gear I’m in and I just had the dealer adjust the derailleurs. They shift perfectly and there’s no chain rub.
Any thoughts on where this clicking is coming from?
#4
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From: Farmington Hills, MI
Bikes: 2017 Specialized Roubaix Sport SL4
Thank you. Pedals are tight, it’s not the cable or seatpost. Definitely not the skewers. The sound is coming from the pedal area. How do I check the BB? If it’s that, I’d take it under warranty to the dealer. My suspicion is it’s the BB.
#6
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Joined: Feb 2019
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From: Lompoc, CA
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix SL4 Comp, Trek 930, Nishiki International
Often “creaking” noises can be difficult to isolate due to the tendency of sounds to resonate through carbon frames. However, if it is the BB, you should be able to confirm that on a maintenance stand or perhaps in a quiet corner on a shop floor. Try twisting the cranks and pulling and pushing them side to side. There should be no play at all. Any play or noises probably indicate the bearings need attention. Could be dry, corroded, dirty, loose, infiltrated by water, or a combination of issues. It’s also remotely possible that the crank arm could come loose from the axle, which would need replacing. My Praxis BB needed cleaning and repacking at about one year. Praxis recommends yearly BB maintenance anyway. You definitely should be able to get the BB fixed under warranty.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#8
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From: Farmington Hills, MI
Bikes: 2017 Specialized Roubaix Sport SL4
#9
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If you have clipless pedals, check the cleats. Sometimes they loosen. Also, even though you think it's coming from bottom bracket area, check stem, headset and brifter bolts.
#10
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From: Farmington Hills, MI
Bikes: 2017 Specialized Roubaix Sport SL4
It doesn’t happen when I coast, only when I’m pedaling. I’ve recently tightened the stem to the bars and the headset was recently repacked. I’m 90% confident it’s in the crank area.
#11
dot dash

Joined: Jun 2015
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Is it a single click or a series?
Is it timelocked to the pedal stroke or variable?
Is it load dependent, and if so, is it with load on one side or both?
I probably won’t have any useful ideas, but these are essential questions.
Is it timelocked to the pedal stroke or variable?
Is it load dependent, and if so, is it with load on one side or both?
I probably won’t have any useful ideas, but these are essential questions.
#12
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From: Farmington Hills, MI
Bikes: 2017 Specialized Roubaix Sport SL4
Its a few clicks per revolution, it’s not really load dependent but if I focus on a smooth stroke it seems to lessen but not go away. It’s variable to the pedal stroke.
#13
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Have you checked the torque on the Praxis cranks? The Praxis cranks on my Diverge weren’t tightened to spec (too loose) which also caused some creaking.
#14
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#15
dot dash

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Yeah, so not the FD, and probably load dependent. First thing I’d do is remove the rear wheel and lube all the dropout, hub, and skewer/axle surfaces. Then check the chainring bolts, but that won’t be it.
#16
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Just a random thought as it happened to me...
If you have nuts on the valve stems to hold them in place, make sure they're tight. I had a clicking noise once/twice per revolution that was coming from "somewhere" down and behind my ears. Took 15 minutes on the stand in super quiet garage to locate it. Felt like a tool once I realized how simple it was. A little blue loctite and away I quietly went.
If you have nuts on the valve stems to hold them in place, make sure they're tight. I had a clicking noise once/twice per revolution that was coming from "somewhere" down and behind my ears. Took 15 minutes on the stand in super quiet garage to locate it. Felt like a tool once I realized how simple it was. A little blue loctite and away I quietly went.
#17
Just a random thought as it happened to me...
If you have nuts on the valve stems to hold them in place, make sure they're tight. I had a clicking noise once/twice per revolution that was coming from "somewhere" down and behind my ears. Took 15 minutes on the stand in super quiet garage to locate it. Felt like a tool once I realized how simple it was. A little blue loctite and away I quietly went.
If you have nuts on the valve stems to hold them in place, make sure they're tight. I had a clicking noise once/twice per revolution that was coming from "somewhere" down and behind my ears. Took 15 minutes on the stand in super quiet garage to locate it. Felt like a tool once I realized how simple it was. A little blue loctite and away I quietly went.
#18
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From: Melbourne, Oz
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Sounds like maybe seat or seatpost. How much post is in the seat tube? If it extends far below the clamp, trimming it might do the trick.
#20
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#21
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From: Farmington Hills, MI
Bikes: 2017 Specialized Roubaix Sport SL4
#22
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#23
Advocatus Diaboli

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I typically recommend doing one leg pedaling (disconnecting one foot from the other pedal completely), then swapping legs. This might at least tell you it's a pedal/cleat vs BB thing.
#24
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From: Farmington Hills, MI
Bikes: 2017 Specialized Roubaix Sport SL4
Here’s an update. I followed most of your suggestions. Tightened the cleats, lubed and tightened the pedals, chainrings and other driveline components. Made sure the FD cable was out of the way. Checked the seatpost and more.
Problem is is still there. It doesn’t show until after about 10 miles but it’s still there. It’s more prominent under heavier load and relatedly up hills. The sound is between a creak and a click and is worse as the load increases like in the big ring, 13 tooth sprocket. Any more thoughts?
Problem is is still there. It doesn’t show until after about 10 miles but it’s still there. It’s more prominent under heavier load and relatedly up hills. The sound is between a creak and a click and is worse as the load increases like in the big ring, 13 tooth sprocket. Any more thoughts?










