Braking
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Braking
I am trying to get into doing some climbing, and with the climbing comes going downhill. I am not yet confident enough to handle going down faster than 20-25mph when there are alot of turns and therefore I am riding the brakes all the time.
Riding with my hands on the drops is not a comfortable position at all. And with my hands over the brakes, I don't feel like I am getting good pressure and my hands start cramping.
Would getting time-trial style handlebars help, I believe those are the bull-horn shaped ones?
Any other advice?
Riding with my hands on the drops is not a comfortable position at all. And with my hands over the brakes, I don't feel like I am getting good pressure and my hands start cramping.
Would getting time-trial style handlebars help, I believe those are the bull-horn shaped ones?
Any other advice?
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It sounds like your too tense or your doing a downhill that you just not ready for or both.
How long have you had your bike? How much do you ride? If your new then time on the bike and small steps is about all you need. If your still having issues then mixing it up may be called for.
How long have you had your bike? How much do you ride? If your new then time on the bike and small steps is about all you need. If your still having issues then mixing it up may be called for.
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IMHO, it would be better for you to get used to the speed then spending money and then realize what a waste it was. I have not been riding that long but the first time I went 25MPH, I thought I was going to fall apart. After going this fast about 3 times, I realized it was not too bad and got used to it... Now if I am going 30-40+MPH... I don't even think twice about it...
Trust me... if you ride enough, you will realize how easy it is to overcome your fears of speed...
My next speed hurdle is going in excess of 50+ MPH...
Trust me... if you ride enough, you will realize how easy it is to overcome your fears of speed...
My next speed hurdle is going in excess of 50+ MPH...
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Originally Posted by ggg300
It sounds like your too tense or your doing a downhill that you just not ready for or both.
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Thanks for all the advice...
I will continue to work on the speed. I'm not too bad with speed it is just that the switchbacks and the steep edge get me...
Now if I could just lose 50 lb, I could climb alot better.
I will continue to work on the speed. I'm not too bad with speed it is just that the switchbacks and the steep edge get me...
Now if I could just lose 50 lb, I could climb alot better.
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Originally Posted by Denali
Thanks for all the advice...
I will continue to work on the speed. I'm not too bad with speed it is just that the switchbacks and the steep edge get me...
Now if I could just lose 50 lb, I could climb alot better.
I will continue to work on the speed. I'm not too bad with speed it is just that the switchbacks and the steep edge get me...
Now if I could just lose 50 lb, I could climb alot better.
remeber to pick a line, brake into the turn, and relax...the front brake has more stopping power than the back so use as you feel fit. You can also slow down by getting out of the seat to hit more wind. Good luck and be safe.
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I want to add this bit of advice: learn to descend in the drops!
You have much more control when descending in the drops. If it feels uncomfortable, you may need to adjust the bike fit.
It makes me really nervous to follow someone on the brake hoods.
You have much more control when descending in the drops. If it feels uncomfortable, you may need to adjust the bike fit.
It makes me really nervous to follow someone on the brake hoods.
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Originally Posted by terrymorse
I want to add this bit of advice: learn to descend in the drops!
You have much more control when descending in the drops. If it feels uncomfortable, you may need to adjust the bike fit.
It makes me really nervous to follow someone on the brake hoods.
You have much more control when descending in the drops. If it feels uncomfortable, you may need to adjust the bike fit.
It makes me really nervous to follow someone on the brake hoods.
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You do need to get use to that's for sure, but some people never do! I've been as high as 58 but that's all the bike and I could go unless I dropped off a ledge and freefalled 1200 feet! But I have heard of others going faster then that.
If you use your brakes on a long downhill run you need to apply your brakes hard (don't lock up) for a short time then let go for short bit and repeat. If you "ride" your brakes you could overheat the rim causing a tire to blow. By letting go the brakes it allows the wind to cool the rim down a bit before you reapplly, otherwise you never give the rim the chance to cool down if you ride the brakes. I personally have never seen this happen on clinchers, and I rode for 30 years in the mountains of California, but heard from others that it had happened.
Sometimes depending on the situation I would vary my braking, if I was coming to a sharp turn fast I would use both brakes and pop my body up to act as a air dam going into the turn then drop back down and let the brakes go coming out; if the curve was a medium sharp I would use just the front and maybe pop up, and if the curve was a soft turn just the rear; by alternating my brakes this allowed more cooling time for the unused rim. Not sure it that prevented blowouts from heat or not but some riders told me this method many years ago when I rode on tubulars (tubulars have been known to have their glue become too soft when the rim overheated the the tub would just roll off in the turn) and that's just what I do even with clinchers. This method you have to play with depending on how many curves your encountering and how steep the grade is that has those curves.
If your approaching a curve too fast sometime it's more prudent to apply both brakes hard and slid your butt off the end of the seat to put more weight on the rear tire which will give it a bit more braking action and keep you from flipping over the handlebars should the rear come up. IF the rear does come up...that's ok believe it or not, as long as it only comes up no more then a foot, once you go past that point the chances increase dramatically that you'll go over the bars.
Remember body position in a turn is very important, if you going into a hard right turn for example make sure you right pedal is in the 12 oclock position, this will prevent you from striking the pedal on the pavement which could lead to a crash and/or broken pedal or crank; lean the upper body and the bicycle together keeping them in line just as you would be when riding straight.
If you use your brakes on a long downhill run you need to apply your brakes hard (don't lock up) for a short time then let go for short bit and repeat. If you "ride" your brakes you could overheat the rim causing a tire to blow. By letting go the brakes it allows the wind to cool the rim down a bit before you reapplly, otherwise you never give the rim the chance to cool down if you ride the brakes. I personally have never seen this happen on clinchers, and I rode for 30 years in the mountains of California, but heard from others that it had happened.
Sometimes depending on the situation I would vary my braking, if I was coming to a sharp turn fast I would use both brakes and pop my body up to act as a air dam going into the turn then drop back down and let the brakes go coming out; if the curve was a medium sharp I would use just the front and maybe pop up, and if the curve was a soft turn just the rear; by alternating my brakes this allowed more cooling time for the unused rim. Not sure it that prevented blowouts from heat or not but some riders told me this method many years ago when I rode on tubulars (tubulars have been known to have their glue become too soft when the rim overheated the the tub would just roll off in the turn) and that's just what I do even with clinchers. This method you have to play with depending on how many curves your encountering and how steep the grade is that has those curves.
If your approaching a curve too fast sometime it's more prudent to apply both brakes hard and slid your butt off the end of the seat to put more weight on the rear tire which will give it a bit more braking action and keep you from flipping over the handlebars should the rear come up. IF the rear does come up...that's ok believe it or not, as long as it only comes up no more then a foot, once you go past that point the chances increase dramatically that you'll go over the bars.
Remember body position in a turn is very important, if you going into a hard right turn for example make sure you right pedal is in the 12 oclock position, this will prevent you from striking the pedal on the pavement which could lead to a crash and/or broken pedal or crank; lean the upper body and the bicycle together keeping them in line just as you would be when riding straight.
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Time trial bars are not good for fast descents. You have less control and in the event of a spill, more sticky-outy bits.
Why don't you like riding i the drops, are they too low or too far away from your saddle? Consider moveing them to a more comfortable place using a different size stem.
Why don't you like riding i the drops, are they too low or too far away from your saddle? Consider moveing them to a more comfortable place using a different size stem.
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Originally Posted by dahvaio
IMHO, it would be better for you to get used to the speed then spending money and then realize what a waste it was. I have not been riding that long but the first time I went 25MPH, I thought I was going to fall apart. After going this fast about 3 times, I realized it was not too bad and got used to it... Now if I am going 30-40+MPH... I don't even think twice about it...
Trust me... if you ride enough, you will realize how easy it is to overcome your fears of speed...
My next speed hurdle is going in excess of 50+ MPH...
Trust me... if you ride enough, you will realize how easy it is to overcome your fears of speed...
My next speed hurdle is going in excess of 50+ MPH...
Last edited by TexasGuy; 07-06-05 at 07:06 AM. Reason: rodes?
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First, get in the drops, that way, you will have more control if you ride over bumps, cracks, holes, etc...
Second, don't brake all the time, but rather pulse the brakes. Brake more when you approach a turn or see a pothole coming, then release the brakes; that way, you'll avoid developing cramps in your hands.
Third, if you have a hard time being comfortable on the drops, it might be wise to replace your stem by one with a steeper angle, so your bars will be higher and closer to you. Keep the original stem for "when you loose 50 lb".
Above all, don't go faster than you feel confident. It is a wonderful experience to blast downhill... as long as you keep all elements under control. There are hills that I will let go and ride at 50-60 km/h, but there are many others where I will limit my speed to 39-40 km/h because of various environmental factors.
As to "why not faster than 50-60 km/h"? I'd need to gain weight...
Second, don't brake all the time, but rather pulse the brakes. Brake more when you approach a turn or see a pothole coming, then release the brakes; that way, you'll avoid developing cramps in your hands.
Third, if you have a hard time being comfortable on the drops, it might be wise to replace your stem by one with a steeper angle, so your bars will be higher and closer to you. Keep the original stem for "when you loose 50 lb".
Above all, don't go faster than you feel confident. It is a wonderful experience to blast downhill... as long as you keep all elements under control. There are hills that I will let go and ride at 50-60 km/h, but there are many others where I will limit my speed to 39-40 km/h because of various environmental factors.
As to "why not faster than 50-60 km/h"? I'd need to gain weight...