Di2?
#26
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Joined: Sep 2017
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"Worth" is subjective -- it depends on your preferences and your budget. Hence, no one can tell you whether moving to Di2 is "worth it" for you.
For me - and I write this as someone with ample funds and a new-ish Di2 bike -- I would not upgrade an existing bike. While Di2 is nice, and has a few tricks up its sleeve, it doesn't really shift any better than a good, well-maintained mechanical drivetrain.
But let's be honest here: If the OP is asking, he's gonna do the upgrade. He's just looking for enablers.
For me - and I write this as someone with ample funds and a new-ish Di2 bike -- I would not upgrade an existing bike. While Di2 is nice, and has a few tricks up its sleeve, it doesn't really shift any better than a good, well-maintained mechanical drivetrain.
But let's be honest here: If the OP is asking, he's gonna do the upgrade. He's just looking for enablers.
Last edited by Koyote; 03-30-20 at 12:55 PM.
#27
To anybody facing this decision, or a similar one: Rent a bike with Di2 (or whatever you're considering) for a day, take it for a long ride. Then make up your mind from personal experience, instead of from asking strangers who have different taste than you. Whatever you decide, you'll feel better about your decision. The knowledge is worth the rental fee.
#28
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: South shore, L.I., NY
Bikes: Trek Emonda SL7, Cannondale Topstone, Miyata City Liner, Specialized Chisel, Specialized Epic Evo
"Worth" is subjective -- it depends on your preferences and your budget. Hence, no one can tell you whether moving to Di2 is "worth it" for you.
For me - and I write this as someone with ample funds and a new-ish Di2 bike -- I would not upgrade an existing bike. While Di2 is nice, and has a few tricks up its sleeve, it doesn't really shift any better than a good, well-maintained mechanical drivetrain.
But let's be honest here: If the OP is asking, he's gonna do the upgrade. He's just looking for enablers.
For me - and I write this as someone with ample funds and a new-ish Di2 bike -- I would not upgrade an existing bike. While Di2 is nice, and has a few tricks up its sleeve, it doesn't really shift any better than a good, well-maintained mechanical drivetrain.
But let's be honest here: If the OP is asking, he's gonna do the upgrade. He's just looking for enablers.
#29
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Joined: Sep 2017
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I also think that Di2 is inferior to mechanical in at least one scenario: shifting both derailleurs simultaneously, as when going from the large to the small chainring and simultaneously shifting to a smaller cog in order to maintain cadence. In a mechanical system, this is pretty seamless, while Di2 is pretty clunky; using Synchro or Semi-Synchro mode only makes it clunkier, contrary to Shimano's intention.
However, I do agree that electronic is the future - I don't see myself buying a new bike without it. It does offer a few little tricks (the auto-trim for the fd, e.g.) and should be forward-compatible with OS updates.
#30
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: South shore, L.I., NY
Bikes: Trek Emonda SL7, Cannondale Topstone, Miyata City Liner, Specialized Chisel, Specialized Epic Evo
If you think that Di2 shifts "much better" than mechanical, then your mechanical drivetrain needs some maintenance.
I also think that Di2 is inferior to mechanical in at least one scenario: shifting both derailleurs simultaneously, as when going from the large to the small chainring and simultaneously shifting to a smaller cog in order to maintain cadence. In a mechanical system, this is pretty seamless, while Di2 is pretty clunky; using Synchro or Semi-Synchro mode only makes it clunkier, contrary to Shimano's intention.
However, I do agree that electronic is the future - I don't see myself buying a new bike without it. It does offer a few little tricks (the auto-trim for the fd, e.g.) and should be forward-compatible with OS updates.
I also think that Di2 is inferior to mechanical in at least one scenario: shifting both derailleurs simultaneously, as when going from the large to the small chainring and simultaneously shifting to a smaller cog in order to maintain cadence. In a mechanical system, this is pretty seamless, while Di2 is pretty clunky; using Synchro or Semi-Synchro mode only makes it clunkier, contrary to Shimano's intention.
However, I do agree that electronic is the future - I don't see myself buying a new bike without it. It does offer a few little tricks (the auto-trim for the fd, e.g.) and should be forward-compatible with OS updates.
#31
I don't think Di2 shifts a lot better than a good mechanical group. Maybe a little. The auto trim is wonderful and works better than manual. There's no maintenance required ever, except charging the battery which takes half a minute on my part. It's easier to use with thick gloves. You can add buttons. Your Garmin can term you what gear you're in and count shifts over a ride. It's overall better.
Shifting more than one cog is faster and more natural with mech. You can't misplace your charger.
Shifting more than one cog is faster and more natural with mech. You can't misplace your charger.
#32
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Joined: Sep 2017
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2 completely unanticipated things I like about Di2, the first is my hands are pretty worn out from decades of hard labor and I find not having to swing the big STI levers inwards is much easier as it’s just a button push. 2nd is I like have the gears I’m in showing on my Garmin, no longer needing to glance back at the cassette. That’s a silly one I admit.
#33
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Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 2,388
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From: Québec, Canada
Bikes: Tarmac SL8, Pink Lady Crux, TCR Beater
It looks like Giant had a 2019 model Defy with Di2, but nothing in 2020 lineup.
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/bi...anced-pro-2020
Also, for Gravel, Giant highlights one of their pro riders on a Revolt with GRX Di2.. but it's not a sold edition according to the bikes pages anyway. Not even available in manual GRX for that matter
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/ne...advanced/24717
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/bi...anced-pro-2020
Also, for Gravel, Giant highlights one of their pro riders on a Revolt with GRX Di2.. but it's not a sold edition according to the bikes pages anyway. Not even available in manual GRX for that matter
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/ne...advanced/24717
#34
Advocatus Diaboli

Joined: Feb 2015
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From: Wherever I am
Bikes: Merlin Cyrene, Nashbar steel CX
https://apps.garmin.com/nl-NL/apps/f...f-3f8f94c7d6c3
#35
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Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 1,437
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From: VA
Bikes: SuperSix Evo | Revolt
It looks like Giant had a 2019 model Defy with Di2, but nothing in 2020 lineup.
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/bi...anced-pro-2020
Also, for Gravel, Giant highlights one of their pro riders on a Revolt with GRX Di2.. but it's not a sold edition according to the bikes pages anyway. Not even available in manual GRX for that matter
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/ne...advanced/24717
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/bi...anced-pro-2020
Also, for Gravel, Giant highlights one of their pro riders on a Revolt with GRX Di2.. but it's not a sold edition according to the bikes pages anyway. Not even available in manual GRX for that matter
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/ne...advanced/24717
I don't think Di2 shifts a lot better than a good mechanical group. Maybe a little. The auto trim is wonderful and works better than manual. There's no maintenance required ever, except charging the battery which takes half a minute on my part. It's easier to use with thick gloves. You can add buttons. Your Garmin can term you what gear you're in and count shifts over a ride. It's overall better.
Shifting more than one cog is faster and more natural with mech. You can't misplace your charger.
Shifting more than one cog is faster and more natural with mech. You can't misplace your charger.
#36
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Joined: Aug 2019
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From: Québec, Canada
Bikes: Tarmac SL8, Pink Lady Crux, TCR Beater
Yup, they went SRAM for electronic for 2020. I wanted di2, so I bought a 2020 Advanced 1 with mech Ultegra and had the shop upgrade it. Two other changes for 2020 on the Defy, 160 rotor up front (previous years are 140 front/rear), and a little more tire clearance, 35mm officially, but I saw where a guy fit 38's on his 2020 Defy. I'm running 28's that measure at 30mm and there is ton of room. Maybe I'll test fit my gravel wheels and see how much room there is, my gravel tires measure at 39mm.
#37
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Joined: Sep 2017
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FWIW, for the non-Di2 cyclist, there are apps for this as well. Can't say I've tried this out though:
https://apps.garmin.com/nl-NL/apps/f...f-3f8f94c7d6c3
https://apps.garmin.com/nl-NL/apps/f...f-3f8f94c7d6c3
#38
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: South shore, L.I., NY
Bikes: Trek Emonda SL7, Cannondale Topstone, Miyata City Liner, Specialized Chisel, Specialized Epic Evo
FWIW, for the non-Di2 cyclist, there are apps for this as well. Can't say I've tried this out though:
https://apps.garmin.com/nl-NL/apps/f...f-3f8f94c7d6c3
https://apps.garmin.com/nl-NL/apps/f...f-3f8f94c7d6c3
#39
Advocatus Diaboli

Joined: Feb 2015
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From: Wherever I am
Bikes: Merlin Cyrene, Nashbar steel CX
Cadence and speed are used together.. in theory it could/should be close; though it may rely on you knowing at least which of the front rings you're in since there could be overlap in gear inches. FYI, Those comments are 2-3 years old, for a long-since replaced editions of the app. That said, and like I said, haven't used it.
#40
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 468
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From: Land of Enchantment
Bikes: Domane SLR7 Project One
Second the recommendation to get the D-Fly Bluetooth adapter if the bike doesn't come with it. Very handy to access the system using your phone. The only caution is a lot of people recommend against doing firmware updates using bluetooth.
Something I just discovered by accident last week is when adjusting the derailleurs a screen pops up on my Edge 830 showing the adjustment position. This is handy to me since I have two wheelsets that are slightly different and need just a little fine tuning for the rear derailleur when switching between the two. Once I established the best position for each now I can just go straight to that position when I switch wheels.
#41
FWIW, for the non-Di2 cyclist, there are apps for this as well. Can't say I've tried this out though:
https://apps.garmin.com/nl-NL/apps/f...f-3f8f94c7d6c3
https://apps.garmin.com/nl-NL/apps/f...f-3f8f94c7d6c3
I have the D Fly so I can't test it. But it's a cool idea.
I wish my Garmin had the graphical display this one does.
#42
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: South shore, L.I., NY
Bikes: Trek Emonda SL7, Cannondale Topstone, Miyata City Liner, Specialized Chisel, Specialized Epic Evo
Di2 - IN MY OPINION, and for the 80?? (can't remember - 8020 ?, 8050 ?) group I installed 2 years ago, shifts quicker, quietly (well except for the front cheep), and more reliably that any of the Ultegra or 105 mechanical groups. All of which were installed correctly and in the beginning, needed no maintenance. Which seems to be what the majority of users on this thread report as well. It's not about maintenance though I would change my comment to just state "better".
#43
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Something I just discovered by accident last week is when adjusting the derailleurs a screen pops up on my Edge 830 showing the adjustment position. This is handy to me since I have two wheelsets that are slightly different and need just a little fine tuning for the rear derailleur when switching between the two. Once I established the best position for each now I can just go straight to that position when I switch wheels.
#44
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Joined: Sep 2017
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I find this a humorous comment as I've used Ultegra since it was the 600 series, had STI Ultegra in it's 8-9-10 & 11 spd. series, plus 5800 and 7000 105 groups on about 15 bikes I've built up from frames.
Di2 - IN MY OPINION, and for the 80?? (can't remember - 8020 ?, 8050 ?) group I installed 2 years ago, shifts quicker, quietly (well except for the front cheep), and more reliably that any of the Ultegra or 105 mechanical groups. All of which were installed correctly and in the beginning, needed no maintenance. Which seems to be what the majority of users on this thread report as well. It's not about maintenance though I would change my comment to just state "better".
Di2 - IN MY OPINION, and for the 80?? (can't remember - 8020 ?, 8050 ?) group I installed 2 years ago, shifts quicker, quietly (well except for the front cheep), and more reliably that any of the Ultegra or 105 mechanical groups. All of which were installed correctly and in the beginning, needed no maintenance. Which seems to be what the majority of users on this thread report as well. It's not about maintenance though I would change my comment to just state "better".
Again, I am not fundamentally disagreeing: I like Di2 and will buy it (or the next iteration) on my next bike, most likely.
#45
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From: South shore, L.I., NY
Bikes: Trek Emonda SL7, Cannondale Topstone, Miyata City Liner, Specialized Chisel, Specialized Epic Evo
In the 2 years I’ve used the system, I haven’t had to readjust, so from memory, you use the shift levers, can’t remember which one, to toggle up or down.
#46
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From: South shore, L.I., NY
Bikes: Trek Emonda SL7, Cannondale Topstone, Miyata City Liner, Specialized Chisel, Specialized Epic Evo
Ah, yes, the "appeal to authority" fallacy. Even if you do have more experience than me (and we don't know if that's true!), it's still a logical fallacy.
Again, I am not fundamentally disagreeing: I like Di2 and will buy it (or the next iteration) on my next bike, most likely.
Again, I am not fundamentally disagreeing: I like Di2 and will buy it (or the next iteration) on my next bike, most likely.
#47
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Joined: Sep 2017
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Yeah, I realize my experience is what is called “anecdotal”, and is just my experience. I do think a 105 system is the most bang for the buck currently. I’d really live to put an XT Di2 system on my HT as I find the long lever push to get to larger dogs hard on my aged thumbs. The price though !, and for a 1x system, is just nuts,
I still don’t think it is worth replacing a perfectly good mechanical groupset... but on a new bike - sure.
#49
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#50
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2015
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From: Central California
Bikes: Trek Madone
I’m the OP. Thanks for all the responses. One said i was going to convert and was just seeking “enablers.” Not really. i should have gone into more detail. I was having a lot of “rattling” noises that appeared to be coming from the downtube that the LBS couldn’t stop. Frustrating to have such a nice bike and hear that noise going over every bump. Had a local guy, that is amazing, look at it, and he installed dome rubber tubing around the internal cables and stopped the noise! Really quiet now.
A couple of the other posts discussed financial means. I can afford it, but really wasn’t sure if it was worth the extra cost. Most said if i was buying new, to go di2, otherwise, no. I agree. I’m going to stay with mechanical for now.
Others said the bike wasn’t really set up for di2. The mechanic that fixed the noise said this Nike was really set up for fi2 more than mechanical. It does have a spot for the battery under the bottle holder mount.
again, thanks for the responses.
A couple of the other posts discussed financial means. I can afford it, but really wasn’t sure if it was worth the extra cost. Most said if i was buying new, to go di2, otherwise, no. I agree. I’m going to stay with mechanical for now.
Others said the bike wasn’t really set up for di2. The mechanic that fixed the noise said this Nike was really set up for fi2 more than mechanical. It does have a spot for the battery under the bottle holder mount.
again, thanks for the responses.



