Hello folks! I'm building up a modern steel bike and want to go with an integrated handlebar stem. Do you have any recommendations for something that'll offer weight savings / marginal aero benefit, and still look good/work with a non-aero frame? I'd like to keep the budget around $400 or less, so most likely used/new takeoffs. I do have some desires that restrict options somewhat:

• I want to be able to use a traditional round top cap so that I don't have to cut my steerer (until I'm certain about my fit, then I will)
• No more than a -7 degree angle . . . I'm already about as low as my body will allow
• 42cm width
• Compact drop

Also, does anyone know if the Trek Madone 9 XXX Aero bars can fit on a traditional frame? Madone

My recommendation would be to not buy an integrated stem/bar. For the same reasons that one should probably not buy integrated pants/shoes.

It looks like the Madone bars only fit the Madone, so that is out. Did you look at the Bontrager XXX bar/stem combo as that may work?

Good luck with your search.

I am a fan of Pro Stealth Evo Compact

I have a pair saved up for a future build.

Too bad it does not come in compact the Cinelli Integrater was another bar on my list

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I picked up a set of Black Inc integrated bars. We'll see how they turn out. At the time I bought them I thought the cabling was run internally; unfortunately I found out it's external in a recessed channel. I was not wanting to put bar tape on the tops, but it's looking like I'll have to in order to keep the cables from flapping about.

Nice Choice.

From the 2nd pics, it does look like you can route the cable internally.

Have fun with the build.

I would have suggested those, but they (normally) cost more than your $400 limit. Did you find a good deal?

Yep. Picked up pre-owned for under budget.

Hmm, why can't this be routed internally? Is it plugged?

I don't know. The descriptions I've read say Di2 wiring is internal; mechanical is external (I'm running Sram Red 22 mechanical on this bike). Once I get the bars I'll give internal routing a go and see what happens.

Got the bars. The holes pictured are smaller in person once you see their size compared to brake/shifter housing. I was able to run the brake cable internally, and I attempted to get the brake housing run. I got it in the first hole, and then realized there wouldn't be any room for the shifter housing. Plus, it was really tight space-wise inside the bar. So I ran the cables externally, and I'm pleased with how things turned out.

First ride with the new bars tomorrow.

https://www.syncros.com/ca/en/produc...d-cockpit-bars
https://www.cinelli-usa.com/cinelli-...ar-stem-combo/
Products ? Most Bike
https://www.trekbikes.com/ca/en_CA/e.../stem/p/12500/
https://us.ritcheylogic.com/us_en/wc...reem-handlebar
ALANERA dcr |Aerodynamic integrated stem and handlebar | Deda Elementi
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/int/g...ted-bar---stem

Synchros produces a few integrated, as well as Most, Cinelli, Bontrager, Ritchey, Deda, Giant and the other's mentioned. A good aero bar is 99$ of the way there IMO.

For example, I run this bar ( https://www.racycles.com/product/detail/9390 ) and if you combined it with this stem (https://www.cervelo.com/en/st-c026-cervelo-carbon-stem ) it would look pretty similar to an integrated.

You can't deny that on the right bike, integrated looks amazing and feels great to ride. Is it worth it? Up to you how you want to dress up your bike and what you'll enjoy.

`I am in agreement with you but from the sound of it for far different reasons. I have a Specialized aluminum handlebar and Cannondale stem that actually weigh less than most integrated bars. Plus if you don't like the actual length to the levers you have to buy and entirely different bar and tear things apart and put them back together rather than just change the stem. These integrated bar/stem combos were "invented" because carbon bars do not attach rigidly to carbon stems and can rotate if you hit a hard bump. Believe me, that is CERTAINLY not a lot of fun. This occurred to me three times before I went integrated. The reach on these varies a lot from design to design and it is very difficult to judge without having them in-hand. Then I ran across the really light aluminum parts. These do not accidently rotate and if you don't like the reach it is simple to fix without new wires and bar tape.

I have a bar and stem almost identical. This design was supposed to beat the fact that carbon-bar/stem combinations invariably break at the entrance to the stem and this provides a safety margin. But you cannot tighten carbon bars into carbon stems enough to keep them from rotating under heavy load. No carbon paste will improve it enough to matter.

Since it is possible to have a bar and stem combo of aluminum that weighs the same or less, that's the way I returned.

As a rule these bars are NOT round. So you can tear them up trying to push the levers on dry, So grease the lever clamps when you put them on. This has no effect on how tight they will clamp since the bar is sort of square. Mine hold entirely securely. As far as I've seen ALL of the carbon integrated bars are this way. Trying to push the levers on without the grease can destroy the bars.

My bars that look like those have internal cables. They only have a single exit and it doesn't look like both shift and brake outers will go through them but they do. In order to thread them through you mount the inner cable to the lever, and push it in and with good lighting you fish the wire out with the j-bend of a spoke. You put both shift and brake wires through. Then you thread the outer of each cable individually through and pushme/pullyou through the correct hole and into the lever. Be sure whether your type of lever uses an end-cap on the outer (My campy do not use an end-cap) before the threading process and then guide it into the correct spot of the lever. Route the outer cable to its location and then you have to extract the inner cable AT THE LEVER enough so that you can cut the outer to the proper length. This usually crushes the plastic tube inside the outer which provides less friction for the inner cable. I use a toothpick to open this up as wide as it will go and then put the end-cap on for the derailleur or brake if necessary (again my Campy brakes cannot fit an end-cap but the derailleurs do). This complex procedure that is open to screwing everything up is another thing that has turned me off of integrated bars.

Concerning the outer cable cutter - I have tried several different brands but only the Park seems to make a clean cut on the new high strength outers whereas the Pedro's used to work better on the older cables. The outers now are 4 mm for shift cables and 5 mm for brakes when the brakes used to be 6 mm. Also now I use the plastic end-caps instead of the metal ones that there is no "factory-type" tool to lock either cable endcaps or inner wire end-caps and you end up having to crush the inner end-caps but if you do that to the outers they will not fit into the brake or shift sockets.

I've paid a small fortune buying tools that promised to set these end-caps properly but no dice.

Under $400...that's a great deal. I've been hoping to come across one in 100/40 for months now, but no such luck.

No, they were 'invented' because they're lighter, stronger, and more aerodynamic than separate bars and stems.