I always wanted to be a crankset.

Great thread, Im thinking about getting one for me for Christmas...go sticky.

How about BB's to go with them??? I have DA10 and if I go with a lower end CC will I need to get a new BB???

Inquiring minds want to know.

Ralph

Why would you go lower end if you have DA? I would go with a carbon crank to replace, or I wouldn't feel right doing it. .

If your DA is the newer with outboard bearings, you are out of luck. If it is octa-link ,then there are some nice carbon CC's available in octa-link. I just got one myself, and I'm using an Ultegra BB for it.

Currently, my high is a 44x12. That works out to be over 30 mph so I'd need a pretty good tailwind to need more than that (or a downhill). My low is a 22x27 and I used it last week.

A mtb triple makes a great compact crank for a road bike. About all I need is the middle ring most all of the time as it works on every cog so that alone provides 10 evenly spaced speeds. However, it is nice to have additional resources.

I have a friend that has compact cranks and a big hill on a great local ride that would be very convenient for him and his Madone; however, it's too steep. He takes a longer and more boring hill around the big one but even the lesser hill is still pretty steep for his gearing. He could easily spin up the steeper, shorter, more scenic, less traveled hill with a lower gear.

I had a LONG response and my computer crapped out on me.

The quick response is; I have the newer DA 10 w/ outboard BB and don't want to put anymore money into my bike, it's a Specialized Roubaix Pro and I love it, but it was a LOT of money (for me at least) and just have other places that need my limited funds more at this time. I would love to have the CC for more hills and to be able to USE all the gears. I spin at about 100 rpms+ and the DD would be a good match for me. I'm just not familiar with all the terminology with BB's so I'm a little put off by the whole idea of changing the BB and crank. I've always worked on my own bikes but near on the crank or BB.

Ralph

In all honesty, if you have the outboard DA crank, I would keep it. If you do want some better climbing gears, what you can do, is wait a while. DA is coming out soon with their DA crank in a compact setup. You could upgrade to a DA compact with the same BB setup, and just sell the other crank to recover some of the cost. Then you wouldn't be losing anything, yet gaining some good climbing capability for a minimal investment.

I've got the FSA compact crank and it works for me. I usually go for a mid 90's cadence and the top 3-4 gears I don't use except going downhill. On the low end, I appreciate that 34-25 when doing mile+ climbs. I'm not 20, just turned 40, so the TDF is out for me. Maybe by the time I've worn out my crank and cassette I'll be enough of a hammerhead to get a "real" double but until then, I'll keep the compact.

ps. I've done the numbers on Sheldon's gear calculator and I'm not missing much; the compact has almost the speed of a double and almost the low end of a triple; it's a very good option to have.

That sounds like a plan, will it be out by summer?

read post no. 23....on page one of this thread....

I had a compact question. I used the search. I found the answer. A very useful thread.

One stupid question: If I go compact, should I get shorter crankarms?

is it possible to get a 11/26 or 27 cassette? I currently have a 12/26

I want to be bigger than the other dude's 52/12

not that dumb a question. I have asked it myself. Basic idea is to have a high RPM and use a lower gear to get the same speed. Thus, a short crank will help the RPM, but from what I have heard here and read it is not worth it as you will need some lev. on hills. I have used 165m cranks when I have run 170. I got the crank for a fixed that is in the works but put it on just to see. Not much to note, but I did notice it on the hills a bit...so I took it off and its waiting for the frame.

yes.

of the same make:
buy a 11-23.
buy a 12-27.

remove the 12 and put the 11 on and use the lock ring that came with the 11. note: you will have no 12. you will get a 11,13 jump.

or you can just order an 11 tooth cog and lock ring from here https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/k7.html#sprockets. If you call they will also help you do it step by step.

^^^no your not missing much. https://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadin...r/gearing.html

"Some maximal speed potential on down hills is lost, but unless you are sustaining speeds of over 33mph on the flats this should not be an issue."


I run a 11-27 and have more than I had than when I ran a 52/39 and 12-25.

thanks! that's good news.

I have a SRAM PG950 cassette, would it be possible to swap out the 12 with a shimano 11? Or should i buy a 11-23 SRAM instead?

thanks rad.

I would stick with same make...sram...BTW that cog set is a lot of fun.

https://www.timesport.fr/us/home.htm

TIME's take on them...check out the BB...

Go sticky and pass the splify

Yeah I'm wondering too, why isn't this thread sticky. It's much more informative than most of the other useless sticky threads.

Don't we have enough stickies? Pretty soon the new posts will start on page 2.

yup...I take back my sticky bid

Quick update: The most over done CC...

https://www.whiteind.com/VBC.html



https://www.whiteind.com/VBC-specs.html

...there are no specs for it. just that one pic.