Yes, neck pain is a common problem. I go through my sore neck phase every season.

Your body has to get used to a new change, so make small changes, letting your body adjust to the new position until it's comfortable.

Don't know much about Tri. I do know how to compete.
If you aren't already, join the Vegas Tri Club. Make friends, get pointers from others who have done what you are wishing to do.
Bike - the aero equipment will be important, eventually.
But 1st learn how to get the most out of you and the bike. Ride with others who will push you harder, not just alone. Learn your gearing and what works for you under conditions.
Only gear I would recommend is getting shoes and pedals which work for tri-bike - running shoes are not those. You need to get your position to what works for you, then modify as you improve aspects. Dont; know what shoes and pedals work best for Tri - the club members would.
You say you have power, so if that's not the main limitation then there are other aspects which hold you back - define those and work on them.
TT is an inner thing. 20 is not a boundary, it might/can be the next step.
Ride On
Yuri
The shirt you wore is fine, if not getting logged with sweat, lose the saddle bag for competition - what is the belt around the waist for? why? get Tri club help on a good position for you at this time, once you have shoes and pedals. Ride a bunch, know your gears and how you perform with them. Fuel the motor well. Be less 427 Chevy and more 12 cylinder Ferrari - power wasted is the same as not having it.

Those racing photos . . .

You're doing great. You don't say how long ago you started training your 3 sports. How many years and how many hours/year are a big deal.

You are athletic, BTW. You're a Marine. Your build is not that different from my wife's. You can modify your fit to get closer to a TT fit. You need to open your hip angle to get as low as you can. Say you moved your saddle all the way forward on a zero-setback post. Then see what you'd have to do as far as stem length to get back your perfect upper arm/torso angle. You'll probably be able to go with a negative angle on that stem, too. If the mod was interesting, you should be able to find a setback seatpost which you can reverse.

From the knee angle on the far knee at TDC, I'd say you might do better with shorter cranks. For some of us, getting low becomes an issue of chest/quad interference.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...53b6be4305.jpg
The cockpit on my endurance bike. These Profile Design bars mount below the bars, which is quite a difference in height. With the bars set up like these, my forearms are approximately level. I agree that aero position is everything. Wring everything you can out of that before spending on fancy equipment

Running. Here's a good video, showing the 2 different techniques current in tri. I'm a glider, never was a gazelle. I keep my feet near the ground and my cadence as high as HR permits.

Legit solid post.
+1
:thumb:

since I don't/didn't know what would be considered most important in a Tri Bike shoe, I thought I'd start finding out a bit...
Found a good article with references for a variety of Tri Bike shoes.
Noting in particular the Louis Garneau Tri X-Speed 3 shoes. I always find Louis Garneau stuff to be a great mix of performance/fit/value/price in their range of products.
Certainly their cycling shorts/bibs are great stuff, at very reasonable cost, fit well and last... expect the same from their shoes ( I should get some and give a try... I tend to stick to Sidi, because for decades they have fit me, great performance/fit/value/durability, but you do pay for this.... for the amount of riding I do and the service life with never a fit issue, I don;t complain...
Ride On
Yuri

I'll have to check into Las Vegas Tri, but the problem is I don't actually live in Vegas anymore. I'm still close, about 50 miles away, so I do drive in from time to time. But it's not like it's right down the road either.

As for the bag, the only thing in it is my car key since I was by myself and all my valuables were locked in the car.

I would really like to ride with other people, especially, like you say, others that will push me. But there are relatively few serious riders out here where I live. I need to hook up with some people and get serious about it. Unfortunately, at least right now, the only time I have to do that is during the summer, which is really terrible time to be doing anything outside in the desert. My school schedule has me pretty much buried the rest of the year.
Interesting you say that about the cranks and the chest/quad interference. I've had some people tell me my seating position is too high, but if I lower it my knee does come up pretty close to my chest at the top of the crank stroke.

Thanks for the video. After watching it I think I am in the "glider" category also. Not so much because I want to be but I am so much more bulky than those women are. I don't have many good pictures of my stride but this one may be the best representation. As noted before, I'm carrying quite a bit of mass up top where it's not doing me any good.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c205db74b7.jpg
At the risk of taking this thread too far off the subject, I went back to my previous tri and put together an image of my run. Not exactly the best image. I had to piece this together from several separate photos. Now, bear in mind that this was an Olympic and I was exhausted. But I'm never far off the ground. Again, I'm carrying a lot more mass than any of those true athletes. But it goes back to what I was saying earlier in that I don't have the spring in my feet I used to have. I think some of that is simply age-related muscle loss, and some of it is that I'm just carrying a lot more weight than most athletes.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...cc718d5c2d.jpg

Sweet baby Jesus! I checked out the link and the "best value" shoes start around $250. :twitchy: I have bikes I didn't pay that much for.

Your position certainly isn't bad. I'd say you can definitely get more aero on that bike, it's just a matter of if your body can handle it (it will take time to adjust of course).

- Lowering the front end is a good start, either with fewer spacers or flipping that stem.
- Getting your head tucked down lower and out of the wind.

That's all free and will take some testing. When it comes to spending $$$ then...

- A better cycling / tri style top, doesn't need to be much tighter but it will be smoother with less flap/wrinkle.
- I can't tell what tyres you're using, but some faster ones paired with Latex tubes may net some additional speed.
- Expensive, but some deeper section wheels.
- An aero helmet will net some savings, but I'd put it low on the list.

There's a bunch of other stuff as well and the rabbit hole is endless, but that's a very good starting point! 😀

This is something that's rarely discussed on BF. There's only so much room in that "rectangular box" between the headtube and ST/TT junction.

If you're looking for some inspiration, the current men's Olympic tri champion has a somewhat atypical build for a triathlete. Stocky and heavier than the usual builds you see in tri. Kristian Blummenfelt.

https://www.instagram.com/kristianblu/?hl=en

That was a 'competition' photo, yes? A large saddle bag has aero disadvantages - think it thru - if all you're carrying is a key/or keys - is there a better way to carry?
How do you carry the key/keys in 'swim', run?
Your personal situation is something which can only be addressed by you. BUT, the fastest way to increase your learning curve/performance curve is to learn from others who have and are climbing the same mountain, hiking the same long trail, wanting the same faster... That knowledge may be the most valuable thing you can get. It may require some changes on your end. What that can be is only what you decide.
My comments are purely to encourage thought, in some obvious directions which can give sizable gain. Not every direction.
You're getting some valuable insights here, but other experienced Triathletes,living in your area, your desert, can put that into better perspective and with better priorities...

Sure, Companies would love you to buy their 'best' products (price wise). But there is some very fine stuff available for well below even the current mid-price point...
https://www.backcountry.com/pearl-iz...v6-shoe-womens
We're not gonna do the work for you, nor can we. You need to determine WHAT you need to do, and find a way to get there. If you decide to 'shop', there's plenty out there.
It may require some work, digging and not getting $250-$400 shoes, or whatever else you decide you need. But there's good stuff out there...
https://www.rei.com/rei-garage/produ...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
https://www.trisports.com/product/lo...xoCrtEQAvD_BwE

The "beginner's category' of shoes in the article shows some very fine shoes - way better than what you're using...
If you say you have 'power', getting it down to the wheels and the road is primary to any other improvements. Everything else you do to improve will depend on how good your connection is to the bike.
Don't know your Euro or Mondo size? Figure it out.
There is no 'hidden' something which will get you from 18 to 19 and to 20 without the work.
... here's one thing I would put vegas money on...
if you were to buy a 'real' Tri TT bike, without working on the other things, it won;t get you to 20, prolly won;t get you to 19... it will make the path smoother, maybe a little easier, but it's not 'magic'
Ride On
Yuri

OK, maybe I was confusing your question about the bag and my belt. I thought you were referring to the belt I was wearing. The saddle bag has a CO2 inflator and a couple cartridges, spare tube, couple of levers and a pair of Allen wrenches. That's all that's in there but it's not really that big a bag. There's very little room left.

What is a Mondo?

So basically a roadside kit for puncture repairs.

I carry my roadside kit in this minimalist Lezyne Roll Caddy. Enough room for all the necessary bits. Stuff doesn't jostle around, and the roll tucks tightly against the saddle. Very aero.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a5a237e5dd.jpg

That's a fine seatbag, but honestly do you really think this is going to make a significant difference in OP speed?!? I am guessing it may get her from 18MPH to 18.01 MPH at best.

18.02 -- it's got dimples.

Would this be able to fit in a jersey pocket? I'm in need of a new solution for tube, tools, etc., and I like the look of that, but much prefer to carry stuff on my body, rather than my bike.

Maybe I could have been clearer, I get it also now...
Small waist pack/bag is a good idea way to carry a key and also a Med/Insurance ID, should a mishape make it necessary... :thumb:
The saddlebag though, is low hanging fruit in the 'aero' game. Weight is minor, but saddlebags are always 'loose' and moving/flopping around some - an aero hit for sure...
not having on the bike during a competition is free aero improvement. I would expect most organized Tris have some form of marshalling, and doing repairs pretty much puts 'paid' to your best time...
Better to assure the bike, wheels, tires are in top form before the race, learn how to 'sweep' the tires when going thru what might be significant road grit.
Mondo = Mondopoint - an ISO sizing method for footwear, been very dominant in the winter sports areas for many decades, but also making in-roads now into other athletic footwear.
SO you have US, UK, Euro and Mondo....
Popped up right after I posted here... I ordered some new EKOI Carbon cycling shoes last night, french company and they use Mondo as their comparison on their sizing chart - so 45 Euro in EKOI shoes is 28.6 Mondo...
Mondo is actually a real measure of the foot length, unlike all the other sizing methods (EU, UK , US - US is close in inches, but not so close these days and lots of variability)
Mondo is the actual length of the foot from most forward toe to back of heel, in cm... so footwear designed for that length foot, and needing consideration of width, arch length, volume etc...

Speed, on a bike, is all incremental things, others jest about something being small, insignificant change - same guys who will spend big bucks for 'minor' equipment changes which might cost substantial bucks - but if it's free, it's for me... if tucking my elbows is better, and I can do it... I would/will.
Ride On
Yuri

You are a true athlete! If you saw the amount of walking at Ironmans, 70.3s, and honestly most tris... you're not walking there, however you feel.

Hell I've walked more than once and you'd insist I'm an athlete.

Oh, I've walked too. Actually, I think this was the first tri where I didn't walk at some point during the run. There were a few places, mostly up a mild incline, where it was more of a shuffle, but it was never a walk. Plus, that pic (where I'm in blue) is actually from this last event. The series I posted in purple is from my previous tri in April. I did much better on that one. Even though it was an Olympic, so all legs were greater distance, I was running about a 9:30 pace.

Interesting about Mondo. First I've heard of it. I'm a little sketchy about ordering shoes online though. I have fairly large feet, size 10 (US) in women's. Everything I see says that's suppose to be a size 9 in a men's shoe but if I wear a men's shoe, I routinely wear an 8. I can sometimes wear a 7.5. I haven't figured that one out yet. I did order a pair of Bont skates a couple years back and they use the Euro (I think) standard. I did the measurements they stated on the website and came up with a 41 so that's what I ordered but that's just a little too big. I think in Euro I'm more like a 40. Not to mention I think the measurement, or maybe manufacturing standards, are pretty loose. I've had one brand of shoe that fits me in a 9.5 (women's) but had to go all the way to an 11 in another brand.

I don't think anyone's mentioned this: rat traps and toe clips. This is the cheap but workable stuff::
https://amazon.com/SEQI-Outdoor-Cycl.../dp/B07T7NLZDP
and this the more trad:
https://www.amazon.com/cyclingcolors.../dp/B07KCL441K



You'd use your running shoes - no transition. This is what I used when I was a teen ager. Did my first solo century, rode to work, rode to my girl friend's, etc. They make a huge difference. Totally worth a try. I always put my right foot down when I stop, so when I get into these pedals, I tighten the left strap and thread it through the buckle. I start pedaling with the right pedal upside down. Once I'm going along nicely, I slip my foot into the toe clip, reach down and tighten the right strap, but don't thread it through the buckle. To stop, I reach down and just touch the right buckle and pull my foot out. I never had a problem, even riding in downtown Seattle traffic (very hilly). Note the roller and teeth location in the buckle. This buckle design is very old, at least 120 years.

If you ride enough, the pedals will wear little grooves in the bottoms of your shoes, so the foot retention becomes evermore secure.

Sure, it's about the right size for a jersey pocket.

I think I had an old bike back in the 80s that had some of those on the pedals. Frankly, I would be more willing to try those, at least for starters than investing in dedicated bike shoes. Cheap way to get a feel for the cost/benefit factor.

This is an option as well.

https://www.powergrips.com/

I like those. I have pedals on a couple of my every day bikes those would work with.

1. Bike shoes with velcro, they make them for tri. Used set if cost is a factor.
2. Good running shoes can improve your pace a LOT. Go to a local run store and have them watch your gait and explain the distance/event you're doing. I swapped run shoes and literally gained about 15 sec/mi.
3. Ignore the folks talking about biking in the run shoes to save transition time. They don't know what they're talking about. Put elastic laces in your run shoes so you can slip them on quickly.
4. Take the multisport questions to slowtwitch.com . Bikeforums knows jack squat nothing about multisport, as a general rule. You'll get a warm reception and folks willing to help with lots of multisport knowledge.

Jen, your number-one roadblock to going faster on that bike is your riding position hands-down. The science says that the biggest factors in going fast on a bike are the power you can generate, and aerodynamics, everything else is small-fish.

The science also says that being a "big" rider is not much of a penalty on any type of route except for going up hills. I am 60 years old, 200 pounds, and had a heart-attack and surgery last year and also tore the ACL in my right knee, but I have been slowly coming back, I just averaged 19.4xmph in a TT a few weeks ago, and I know I will continue to get faster barring any more health problems or accidents.

I raced bikes a few decades ago and of course was much faster then, but the point is I have experience in going fast. I can remember 25 years ago having a digital speedometer on my race-bike and watching the mph increase as I got more and more horizontal on the bike. Once you get close to 20mph, aerodynamics count more and more, it becomes critical, as wind resistance eats up power exponentially with an increase in speed.

If you keep your current riding position, you are going to have to come up with a lot more power to get two more mph, but if you get horizontal you may not have to come up with hardly any more than you have right now. The longer you ride at a very low horizontal position, the more you will get used to it and the less your neck will hurt, you will develop the flexibility and muscles in your neck just as you would with any other part of your body you work on. Also you move your neck around during the ride, don't keep it in the same rigid position. turn it to the left, to the right, look down and back etc. every now and then and that will keep it loose.

A lot of the time I am going fast I am looking straight down at the pavement just steering by the lines on the road and just looking up periodically to see the traffic ahead and the way the road is curving. The more you practice, the better you can do this.
When you get really "aero" you will hear the wind noise mostly vanish.

I really enjoy food, but I don't eat like I did when I was young that is for sure, it is a good thing for older folks to switch from quantity to quality in the food area, once you do that and combine it with how you are training you will drop weight and you will pick up power from better food and good sleep helps a lot too. Early to bed, early to rise. Here is a photo of my race bike, notice the drop from the seat to the bars, and I get my face darn close to those bars when I am trying to go fast, if I hit a pothole I would probably break my nose or lose some teeth. Your seat looks the same height or even lower than the top of your bars, and that is what is stealing your power and speed no doubt.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...44627373bd.jpg

You can get good shoes for much cheaper, but you do have to change out your pedals, so it will be some expense.

Also, I don't know if this has been discussed, but are you drafting behind other riders? Is that against triathlon etiquette? You can go 1.5 mph faster over that distance just by drafting.

And finally, folks are saying to compete against yourself and not others. And ultimately, that is the most meaningful competition, I agree, but nothing wrong w/ comparing yourself to others if you do it in a positive way. If it's inspiring, it's positive. Finding out that older riders are faster than me is encouraging. Shows me what's possible. If I work hard and can't match someone, then I can be happy for them, knowing how hard it is.

Against the rules, not just etiquette (except for a few draft-legal races that aren't relevant here). Now, the rules are often poorly-enforced, but following distance and time-to-pass are on the books.

That makes sense, thanks for clarifying. I've never participated in a tri event.