Anyone use 700x20c ?
#1
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From: "Gosh honey, you pass more like Tony Rominger..."
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Anyone use 700x20c ?
Any noticeable differnce from a 700x23c?
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#2
MTWThFMuter

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Originally Posted by Sincitycycler
Any noticeable differnce from a 700x23c? 

).
#3
Actually, I do use those for summer riding. Yes, there is a noticable difference, but you get used to it. I also have to be careful riding where there's cracks in the pavement. Other than, they're okay. When it starts raining here in the Willamette Valley I put the bigger tires back on. Much better when the roads are nasty.
#4
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From: fogtown...san francisco
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it depends...what psi do you pump your tires to and what road conditions do you ride through. narrower tires tend to respond to steering much quicker. This might not be an issue if you ride in flat smooth conditions. But if you ride down technical hills, quick handling could be a real issue. Also, if you weight is more than 180 pounds, narrow tires are more likely to beat you up a bit more.
I tend to like high psi with wide tires...but then, I like tubulars!
I tend to like high psi with wide tires...but then, I like tubulars!
#6
Narrow tires have less rubber and therefore weigh less so you will have better acceleration and hill climbing.
Narrow tires actually have a HIGHER rolling resistance than wider tires at a given pressure. This is due to the fact that a narrow tire must deflect more to get the same contact patch vs. a wider tire (contact patch = weight on tire/pressure in tire). Since rolling resistance comes from tire deflection, narrow tires take more energy to move.
Of course, you can counteract the higher rolling resistance with higher pressure, but you’ll have a rougher ride. Besides that, you can probably add another 10-20 psi to your existing tires without any problems.
See Sheldon Brown under “Width & Pressure” https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#width
-murray
Narrow tires actually have a HIGHER rolling resistance than wider tires at a given pressure. This is due to the fact that a narrow tire must deflect more to get the same contact patch vs. a wider tire (contact patch = weight on tire/pressure in tire). Since rolling resistance comes from tire deflection, narrow tires take more energy to move.
Of course, you can counteract the higher rolling resistance with higher pressure, but you’ll have a rougher ride. Besides that, you can probably add another 10-20 psi to your existing tires without any problems.
See Sheldon Brown under “Width & Pressure” https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#width
-murray
#7
FloridaFlats
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Basically, they are a real pain to change. I used to ride the 20's but after too many flats and too much effort in changing them, I have gone to the 23's which are a relative breeze to get on the rim.
#8
I'm using 20s and love them. The only other tyres I've ridden though are MTB tyres, so of course the 20s feel harsh and fast.
That said, 20 isn't all that uncomfortable, and if they were available I'd be using even thinner tyres. If I wanted comfort I'd go back to my mountain bike
That said, 20 isn't all that uncomfortable, and if they were available I'd be using even thinner tyres. If I wanted comfort I'd go back to my mountain bike
#9
Aluminium Crusader :-)

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From: Melbourne, Australia
I'm a bit a devotee to 20mm tyres, and used them for years, but I'll never use one on the front again; the high pressure isn't necessary on the front, they're just too uncomfortable, and a little dangerous. I finally accepted to science 
What used to bug me about 23s was the low psi ratings (often around 115), but then I found a few brands that are rated over 140, just in case a find a glassy road. I'm about 85kg (187lbs), so I find that a rear 23 at 115psi just gets squished flat. Therefore, sometimes I have a 20mm on the rear (at 150psi) just to stop the rim hitting the road.

What used to bug me about 23s was the low psi ratings (often around 115), but then I found a few brands that are rated over 140, just in case a find a glassy road. I'm about 85kg (187lbs), so I find that a rear 23 at 115psi just gets squished flat. Therefore, sometimes I have a 20mm on the rear (at 150psi) just to stop the rim hitting the road.
Last edited by 531Aussie; 07-28-05 at 10:20 PM.
#10
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I got some 18s (Conti SS Ultra) real cheap from Performance on a blow-out sale. I actually got a third tire in case one blew out the sidewall, they're so skinny. I've had very good service with these. They're very comfortable even at the rated 150 psi, ride and corner great and wear like iron.
I have had a couple of flats with these but not near as much as i thought I would have.
I have had a couple of flats with these but not near as much as i thought I would have.
#11
It depends on wheels and tires combination.
It was a b?tch to put on 23c hutchinson top speed on the older campy wheels, and pretty easy
to put on continental 20c on mavic
It was a b?tch to put on 23c hutchinson top speed on the older campy wheels, and pretty easy
to put on continental 20c on mavic
Originally Posted by Bob Gabele
Basically, they are a real pain to change. I used to ride the 20's but after too many flats and too much effort in changing them, I have gone to the 23's which are a relative breeze to get on the rim.
#12
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I have a pair of Continental 20s on my Bianchi Trofeo which is primarily a Summer/dry weather bike although it does have fenders. The quick handling takes a bit of getting used to when I first ride it after a few months on other bikes. I agree about the somewhat harsh ride & they wear like iron so far. Wouldn't have ordinarily bought them but the price was way low.
#14
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From: "Gosh honey, you pass more like Tony Rominger..."
Bikes: 2005 Scott CR1 Pro - 1992 Panasonix Fixed Conversion 60tx20t
Originally Posted by Murrays
Narrow tires have less rubber and therefore weigh less so you will have better acceleration and hill climbing.
Narrow tires actually have a HIGHER rolling resistance than wider tires at a given pressure. This is due to the fact that a narrow tire must deflect more to get the same contact patch vs. a wider tire (contact patch = weight on tire/pressure in tire). Since rolling resistance comes from tire deflection, narrow tires take more energy to move.
Of course, you can counteract the higher rolling resistance with higher pressure, but you’ll have a rougher ride. Besides that, you can probably add another 10-20 psi to your existing tires without any problems.
See Sheldon Brown under “Width & Pressure” https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#width
-murray
Narrow tires actually have a HIGHER rolling resistance than wider tires at a given pressure. This is due to the fact that a narrow tire must deflect more to get the same contact patch vs. a wider tire (contact patch = weight on tire/pressure in tire). Since rolling resistance comes from tire deflection, narrow tires take more energy to move.
Of course, you can counteract the higher rolling resistance with higher pressure, but you’ll have a rougher ride. Besides that, you can probably add another 10-20 psi to your existing tires without any problems.
See Sheldon Brown under “Width & Pressure” https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#width
-murray
How much can you inflate 20c to? I'm a bigger rider (198 lbs.) and I wouldn't mind using a tire that can go 130-140 psi because my heavy weight compresses 23c at 125psi too easily . Looking for less rolling resistance...
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#15
Aluminium Crusader :-)

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From: Melbourne, Australia
Originally Posted by Sincitycycler
How much can you inflate 20c to? I'm a bigger rider (198 lbs.) and I wouldn't mind using a tire that can go 130-140 psi because my heavy weight compresses 23c at 125psi too easily
last year I was up around 200lbs, and I had wire bead Continental Grand Prix 20mm tyres on the rear, which are rated to 150psi.
#16
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From: "Gosh honey, you pass more like Tony Rominger..."
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Originally Posted by 531Aussie
same here. It's worth a try
last year I was up around 200lbs, and I had wire bead Continental Grand Prix 20mm tyres on the rear, which are rated to 150psi.
last year I was up around 200lbs, and I had wire bead Continental Grand Prix 20mm tyres on the rear, which are rated to 150psi.
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#17
Aluminium Crusader :-)

Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Melbourne, Australia
yeah, clincher. I sometimes still use them on the rear because they're quite affordable
https://www.conti-online.com/generato...d_prix_en.html
Other than that, I recommend a 23mm Vredestein TriComp, which are rated to 145psi, and can easily handle 150psi.
https://www.conti-online.com/generato...d_prix_en.html
Other than that, I recommend a 23mm Vredestein TriComp, which are rated to 145psi, and can easily handle 150psi.
#18
From the link https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#width:
Play around a bit and see what works for you. Personally, I weight about 135 so I've probably got overinflated tires 
-murray
Most tires have a "maximum" pressure, or a recommended pressure range marked on the side of the tire. These pressure ratings are established by the tire manufacturers after consultation with the legal and marketing departments.
...
Newbies often take these arbitrary ratings as if they had some scientific basis. While you'll rarely get in trouble with this approach, you will usually not be getting the best possible performance with this rote approach.
...
Newbies often take these arbitrary ratings as if they had some scientific basis. While you'll rarely get in trouble with this approach, you will usually not be getting the best possible performance with this rote approach.

-murray
#19
Originally Posted by Murrays
Narrow tires have less rubber and therefore weigh less so you will have better acceleration and hill climbing.
Narrow tires actually have a HIGHER rolling resistance than wider tires at a given pressure. This is due to the fact that a narrow tire must deflect more to get the same contact patch vs. a wider tire (contact patch = weight on tire/pressure in tire). Since rolling resistance comes from tire deflection, narrow tires take more energy to move.
Of course, you can counteract the higher rolling resistance with higher pressure, but you’ll have a rougher ride. Besides that, you can probably add another 10-20 psi to your existing tires without any problems.
See Sheldon Brown under “Width & Pressure” https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#width
-murray
Narrow tires actually have a HIGHER rolling resistance than wider tires at a given pressure. This is due to the fact that a narrow tire must deflect more to get the same contact patch vs. a wider tire (contact patch = weight on tire/pressure in tire). Since rolling resistance comes from tire deflection, narrow tires take more energy to move.
Of course, you can counteract the higher rolling resistance with higher pressure, but you’ll have a rougher ride. Besides that, you can probably add another 10-20 psi to your existing tires without any problems.
See Sheldon Brown under “Width & Pressure” https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#width
-murray
#20
Originally Posted by PenguinDeD
...the contact patch is a lot smaller...
Think of it this way, what's supporting your weight between the rim and the pavement if it's not the air pressure?
Certainly, narrow tires allow higher pressures so that's where the lower rolling resistance comes in.
-murray
#21
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I used to run 20s. Then I got sick of them and went to 23s. I'll probably stick to 23s from now on.
Thing is if you are a heavier rider, it WILL need more pressure, and if you do a lot of loaded down riding (sometimes me andd my gear is close to 300lbs, not counting bike), well then the tire will be almost all vertical contact patch, with very liittle for cornering.
basically, if you don't carry any loads at all, and just do sport riding/racing, then 20cs are for you, otherwise go for 23 or 25c.
Thing is if you are a heavier rider, it WILL need more pressure, and if you do a lot of loaded down riding (sometimes me andd my gear is close to 300lbs, not counting bike), well then the tire will be almost all vertical contact patch, with very liittle for cornering.
basically, if you don't carry any loads at all, and just do sport riding/racing, then 20cs are for you, otherwise go for 23 or 25c.





