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-   -   Hydraulic Disc Brakes Problem (https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycling/1302170-hydraulic-disc-brakes-problem.html)

MoAlpha 11-12-24 10:05 AM


Originally Posted by spclark (Post 23391698)
Enlighten me please as to why it's necessary to remove the brake pads when doing a fluid bleed?

My experience with auto disc brakes has always been that bleeding the system (of possible air entrapment or for a replacement of aged or contaminated fluid) is done with pads in place.

Any potential for pads to be contaminated by leaked fluid is supposed to be circumvented by placing a hose over the end of the bleeder ports to redirect escaping fluid into a proper reservoir.

Is this not possible with popular bicycle hydraulic brake systems?

(Being new to hydraulic disc brakes on bicycles I fully expect to have to get up to speed with proper maintenance sooner or later. I'm not at all the type to leave what ought to be routine maintenance to my LBS staffers. There's only one LBS in town, any others are a fair drive distant, no co-op closer than a two hour, one-way drive.)

First rule of hydro discs: If mineral oil brake fluid is present on any surface in the work area, especially the fingers of the worker, and the pads are within three feet of it, enough oil will end up on the pads to contaminate them.

spclark 11-12-24 10:12 AM

'K, thanks all. I get the message, appreciate your contributions here.

t2p 11-12-24 10:41 AM


Originally Posted by MoAlpha (Post 23392101)
First rule of hydro discs: If mineral oil brake fluid is present on any surface in the work area, especially the fingers of the worker, and the pads are within three feet of it, enough oil will end up on the pads to contaminate them.

truer words never spoken

ARider2 11-12-24 02:12 PM


Originally Posted by spclark (Post 23391698)
Enlighten me please as to why it's necessary to remove the brake pads when doing a fluid bleed?

My experience with auto disc brakes has always been that bleeding the system (of possible air entrapment or for a replacement of aged or contaminated fluid) is done with pads in place.

Any potential for pads to be contaminated by leaked fluid is supposed to be circumvented by placing a hose over the end of the bleeder ports to redirect escaping fluid into a proper reservoir.

Is this not possible with popular bicycle hydraulic brake systems?

(Being new to hydraulic disc brakes on bicycles I fully expect to have to get up to speed with proper maintenance sooner or later. I'm not at all the type to leave what ought to be routine maintenance to my LBS staffers. There's only one LBS in town, any others are a fair drive distant, no co-op closer than a two hour, one-way drive.)

Murphy’s law applies: If brake fluid can possibly get on the pads then it most definitely will! But yeah not a must but it is best practice in my view. Also allows me to inspect the pads and check condition of inside of caliper.

genejockey 11-12-24 02:42 PM


Originally Posted by MoAlpha (Post 23392101)
First rule of hydro discs: If mineral oil brake fluid is present on any surface in the work area, especially the fingers of the worker, and the pads are within three feet of it, enough oil will end up on the pads to contaminate them.

So, while brake fluid is hygroscopic, mineral oil is brakepadscopic.

chain_whipped 11-13-24 04:15 PM

Another win for road disc brakes. Thank goodness for industry marketing on saving the bike shops. Trek certified service program will teach the hints for profits.

Not joking and the proof is the power of marketing and sometimes a little of sublime fear. Right from the OP start, resident experts here replies are to take it to a bike shop.

Only a $50+ ordeal and your transportation cost/ time. Hopefully the pads are not contaminated but expect the shop to tell you its best not to risk the smudgy. Perhaps also a good time to buy another bikey thing, and don't forget the tip jar!

Indi dealer explained the trend towards dealer service only, sort of modeled from the auto industry. Components and frames becoming off hands repair by the user.

Koyote 11-13-24 04:32 PM


Originally Posted by chain_whipped (Post 23393109)
Another win for road disc brakes. Thank goodness for industry marketing on saving the bike shops. Trek certified service program will teach the hints for profits.

Not joking and the proof is the power of marketing and sometimes a little of sublime fear. Right from the OP start, resident experts here replies are to take it to a bike shop.

Only a $50+ ordeal and your transportation cost/ time. Hopefully the pads are not contaminated but expect the shop to tell you its best not to risk the smudgy. Perhaps also a good time to buy another bikey thing, and don't forget the tip jar!

Indi dealer explained the trend towards dealer service only, sort of modeled from the auto industry. Components and frames becoming off hands repair by the user.

You are off-base on every single point.

The brakes would still be functioning perfectly if the OP had not screwed them up...And the screw-up is such a rookie move that it suggests that the OP probably can't fix it. Hence the recommendation to visit a shop.

I've had disc brakes on two bikes for a combined 13 years and 40,000 miles, and have never needed a shop to repair them. If done correctly, pad replacement is much easier and quicker than with rim brakes.

chain_whipped 11-13-24 05:20 PM


Originally Posted by Koyote (Post 23393126)
You are off-base on every single point.

The brakes would still be functioning perfectly if the OP had not screwed them up...And the screw-up is such a rookie move that it suggests that the OP probably can't fix it. Hence the recommendation to visit a shop.

I've had disc brakes on two bikes for a combined 13 years and 40,000 miles, and have never needed a shop to repair them. If done correctly, pad replacement is much easier and quicker than with rim brakes.

That's why you're the expert and shops don't expect your business. I'm not an expert nor a 'rookie' though frequent bike shops just enough to appease my interest. Occasionally join in club rides with some of these employees and other times with an owner. Lots of discussion and observed plenty.

These days, pretty sure you'd get the same wishes from shop owners wanting people in the door via the shop counter to greet.

Overall, the tri competitors are easily the most reliant on shop support. They're classified as having more of a driven personality, delegate in work environment or career, greater than avg income. So they spend way more for dealer shop work and the latest equipped. They're less inclined to do their own tune up or maintenance, fear risking incorrectly dialing in, breaking something fasteners torque values, etc..

Sometimes one remembers a group ride for goofy reasons. Once was riding along with a younger and fast roadie, on some team whatever. Has the latest to be fast stuff. Anyways, he flatted even with tubeless. Half the group sprinted on. This guy blurted didn't know how nor bothers about fixing. Let alone wasn't prepared by carrying anything. He was phoning for a ride but I ended up having a spare tube, made a little mess from the sealant but took care of it. Back at our start point, the LBS owner said he loves that fellows business. Ha.

Koyote 11-13-24 05:23 PM


Originally Posted by chain_whipped (Post 23393170)
That's why you're the expert and shops don't expect your business. I'm not an expert nor a 'rookie' though frequent bike shops just enough to appease my interest. Occasionally join in club rides with some of these employees and other times with an owner. Lots of discussion and observed plenty.

These days, pretty sure you'd get the same wishes from shop owners wanting people in the door via the shop counter to greet.

Overall, the tri competitors are easily the most reliant on shop support. They're classified as having more of a driven personality, delegate in work environment or career, greater than avg income. So they spend way more for dealer shop work and the latest equipped. They're less inclined to do their own tune up or maintenance, fear risking incorrectly dialing in, breaking something fasteners torque values, etc..

Sometimes one remembers a group ride for goofy reasons. Once was riding along with a younger and fast roadie, on some team whatever. Has the latest to be fast stuff. Anyways, he flatted even with tubeless. Half the group sprinted on. This guy blurted didn't know how nor bothers about fixing. Let alone wasn't prepared by carrying anything. He was phoning for a ride but I ended up having a spare tube, made a little mess from the sealant but took care of it. Back at our start point, the LBS owner said he loves that fellows business. Ha.

You have lost the plot. None of this has anything to do with my post (to which you were responding), nor with your earlier post (to which I was responding), nor with the thread in general. We were discussing hydraulic disc brakes.

chain_whipped 11-13-24 05:28 PM


Originally Posted by Koyote (Post 23393175)
You have lost the plot. None of this has anything to do with my post (to which you were responding), nor with your earlier post (to which I was responding), nor with the thread in general. We were discussing hydraulic disc brakes.


Originally Posted by chain_whipped (Post 23393109)
Another win for road disc brakes. Thank goodness for industry marketing on saving the bike shops. Trek certified service program will teach the hints for profits.

Not joking and the proof is the power of marketing and sometimes a little of sublime fear. Right from the OP start, resident experts here replies are to take it to a bike shop.

Only a $50+ ordeal and your transportation cost/ time. Hopefully the pads are not contaminated but expect the shop to tell you its best not to risk the smudgy. Perhaps also a good time to buy another bikey thing, and don't forget the tip jar!

Indi dealer explained the trend towards dealer service only, sort of modeled from the auto industry. Components and frames becoming off hands repair by the user.

....


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