Wheels again.
#1
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Wheels again.


hello,
as I have said in a few previous posts I am new to cycling and don't know alot about the technical side. I was wondering If these wheels would be compatible with my bike. I have a 10 speed campy record wheelset which I think means I have 8 gears in the back and 2 in the front. Would It be possible for me to put these wheels on my bike? if not, is it worth it to switch the hub and cassette I have on the bike now, to these wheels? I sound stupid probbly, but I this is all I can think of right now.
thanks.
#5
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Bikes: *'00 LS Vortex/Chorus 12/Campag Zondas*98 LS Classic - S&S couplers/Chorus 12/Rolf Vector Pros*'95 DeBernardi Cromor S/S, Mavic Open Pros on Phil Wood track hubs*


hello,
as I have said in a few previous posts I am new to cycling and don't know alot about the technical side. I was wondering If these wheels would be compatible with my bike. I have a 10 speed campy record wheelset which I think means I have 8 gears in the back and 2 in the front. Would It be possible for me to put these wheels on my bike? if not, is it worth it to switch the hub and cassette I have on the bike now, to these wheels? I sound stupid probbly, but I this is all I can think of right now.
thanks.
Last edited by 13ollocks; 06-01-25 at 01:13 PM.
#6
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“10 speed” refers only to the number of sprockets on the cassette - 10 in your case (look at the picture and count them). The number of chainrings on the front doesn’t change the number of “speeds”- just the number of gear combinations you can access - not the same thing. What is the “speed” designation of the rest of your drivetrain? The shifters and rear derailleur? For them all to work properly together, the cassette, RD and shifters have to be the same Campagnolo “speed” designation. If you have Campag 10sp shifters and RD, you’re all set. If you have Campag 8sp shifters and RD, you’ll need to swap the current cassette for a Campag 8sp cassette. If you have Shimano or other brand components, it gets more complex, but you can still make it work if you get some expert input (trying to figure this out online is likely to end in frustration for all concerned). You need to find someone who can look at what you have and tell you what you need to do to make it all work.
#7
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Bikes: *'00 LS Vortex/Chorus 12/Campag Zondas*98 LS Classic - S&S couplers/Chorus 12/Rolf Vector Pros*'95 DeBernardi Cromor S/S, Mavic Open Pros on Phil Wood track hubs*
your shifters and your RD should have it written in them somewhere. If not - post some decent pics here and someone might be able to tell you. Are the shifters and RD Campagnolo? If not, then I don’t know what to tell you except take it to a bike shop or someone who can look at your bike in real life
#8
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your shifters and your RD should have it written in them somewhere. If not - post some decent pics here and someone might be able to tell you. Are the shifters and RD Campagnolo? If not, then I don’t know what to tell you except take it to a bike shop or someone who can look at your bike in real life
#10
Facts just confuse people




Joined: Jul 2017
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From: Mississippi
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Besides getting the number sprockets on the rear that your shifters are able to shift. You also need to make certain the hubs have the same OLD as do your existing. Over locknut dimension, which is what your dropouts and fork ends are spaced for.
While I agree that you should use all Campagnolo stuff it you have a Campagnolo drive train, you can run a Shimano/SRAM compatible cassette and free hub in a Campy drive train. However for peak shifting performance, you should use all Campy.
Don't assume we know about your previous posts. So put all the information that is pertinent to your thread in each thread. Pretend that all your responders have no idea about anything you've said in other threads.
While I agree that you should use all Campagnolo stuff it you have a Campagnolo drive train, you can run a Shimano/SRAM compatible cassette and free hub in a Campy drive train. However for peak shifting performance, you should use all Campy.
Don't assume we know about your previous posts. So put all the information that is pertinent to your thread in each thread. Pretend that all your responders have no idea about anything you've said in other threads.
#11
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Besides getting the number sprockets on the rear that your shifters are able to shift. You also need to make certain the hubs have the same OLD as do your existing. Over locknut dimension, which is what your dropouts and fork ends are spaced for.
While I agree that you should use all Campagnolo stuff it you have a Campagnolo drive train, you can run a Shimano/SRAM compatible cassette and free hub in a Campy drive train. However for peak shifting performance, you should use all Campy.
Don't assume we know about your previous posts. So put all the information that is pertinent to your thread in each thread. Pretend that all your responders have no idea about anything you've said in other threads.
While I agree that you should use all Campagnolo stuff it you have a Campagnolo drive train, you can run a Shimano/SRAM compatible cassette and free hub in a Campy drive train. However for peak shifting performance, you should use all Campy.
Don't assume we know about your previous posts. So put all the information that is pertinent to your thread in each thread. Pretend that all your responders have no idea about anything you've said in other threads.
As I am far from any shops I am relying on this forum and ****** sometimes for advice. I don't know anything about dropouts or locknut dimension, so i'll try and understand it as best as I can.
I am trying to use all campy as I don't really want to mess up the bike because I am alredy on a budget, but trying to find anyone near me who sells stuff like that is almost impossible, so I check with this forum for example if these wheels are ok to use.
#12
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From: Aloha, Oregon
Bikes: Probably too many...
Campy doesn't play well with Shimano or SRAM in most cases, so it's best to stay in the Campy category for all things in your drivetrain. The wheels you posted are 9-speed and will not work with either a 10- or 8-speed groupset outside of some very limited circumstances.
Due to the way indexed systems work, the spacing is ever so slightly different when it comes to how the sprockets are stacked in the cassette. If you have an indexed 8-speed system, there aren't enough spaces in the mechanism to shift to all the sprockets in that 9-speed cluster. If you are running an indexed 10-speed system, then the spacing is off when it comes to how far the cable will move the derailleur and it won't shift properly. Campy cassettes use a different freehub than Shimano and SRAM, so you would have mixed results at best if you decided to get these wheels and replaced the existing one with a compatible cassette.
Why are you looking at replacing the wheels you have now?
Due to the way indexed systems work, the spacing is ever so slightly different when it comes to how the sprockets are stacked in the cassette. If you have an indexed 8-speed system, there aren't enough spaces in the mechanism to shift to all the sprockets in that 9-speed cluster. If you are running an indexed 10-speed system, then the spacing is off when it comes to how far the cable will move the derailleur and it won't shift properly. Campy cassettes use a different freehub than Shimano and SRAM, so you would have mixed results at best if you decided to get these wheels and replaced the existing one with a compatible cassette.
Why are you looking at replacing the wheels you have now?
#13
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Campy doesn't play well with Shimano or SRAM in most cases, so it's best to stay in the Campy category for all things in your drivetrain. The wheels you posted are 9-speed and will not work with either a 10- or 8-speed groupset outside of some very limited circumstances.
Due to the way indexed systems work, the spacing is ever so slightly different when it comes to how the sprockets are stacked in the cassette. If you have an indexed 8-speed system, there aren't enough spaces in the mechanism to shift to all the sprockets in that 9-speed cluster. If you are running an indexed 10-speed system, then the spacing is off when it comes to how far the cable will move the derailleur and it won't shift properly. Campy cassettes use a different freehub than Shimano and SRAM, so you would have mixed results at best if you decided to get these wheels and replaced the existing one with a compatible cassette.
Why are you looking at replacing the wheels you have now?
Due to the way indexed systems work, the spacing is ever so slightly different when it comes to how the sprockets are stacked in the cassette. If you have an indexed 8-speed system, there aren't enough spaces in the mechanism to shift to all the sprockets in that 9-speed cluster. If you are running an indexed 10-speed system, then the spacing is off when it comes to how far the cable will move the derailleur and it won't shift properly. Campy cassettes use a different freehub than Shimano and SRAM, so you would have mixed results at best if you decided to get these wheels and replaced the existing one with a compatible cassette.
Why are you looking at replacing the wheels you have now?
I am still learning about everything. So I need to find the wheels taht are correct size, brake system (rim brake), campy compatible, speed compatible(8 sprockets on cassette), and can fit correctly on the bike? Please correct me if i am wrng.
#14
Facts just confuse people




Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 19,317
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From: Mississippi
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Well you say 10 speed bike. But unlike the old days, you seem to be simply adding the front two sprockets to the rear eight sprockets. BITD, we use to multiply those two numbers.
However for the last 25 years and even into the previous century, most experienced with cycling will only refer to a bikes speeds as the number of sprockets on the rear. Unless of course it's a IGH hub and you only see the one external sprocket.
Though confusingly some cheap bike manufacturers and retailers of cheap things still refer to them by the rear and front multiplied together. Don't be one of them!
The picture of the wheel you show is a bad angle and fuzzy. I only count 9 sprockets on it. You say you have Chorus 8. So you should be looking for a wheel with 8 sprockets on the rear. And preferably, IMO, they should be a Campagnolo free hub and Campagnolo cassette. Though again, you can use a wheel that has a Shimano/SRAM compatible free hub and cassette.
Typically new wheels don't come with a cassette on them. You should know what this wheel has on it in your picture. The cassette from your existing wheel might be able to go on it. But not if one is Campagnolo and the other Shimano/SRAM. In many instances, Shimano free hubs can deal with cassettes of one or two more sprockets or less sprockets. Campy probably does too. But I don't know for certain.
For issues that deal with mechanical stuff of your bicycle, the Bicycle Mechanics is a better place to post those type questions. You'll get more notice from those that do know and less from those that don't know for certain.... which is me.
However for the last 25 years and even into the previous century, most experienced with cycling will only refer to a bikes speeds as the number of sprockets on the rear. Unless of course it's a IGH hub and you only see the one external sprocket.
Though confusingly some cheap bike manufacturers and retailers of cheap things still refer to them by the rear and front multiplied together. Don't be one of them!
The picture of the wheel you show is a bad angle and fuzzy. I only count 9 sprockets on it. You say you have Chorus 8. So you should be looking for a wheel with 8 sprockets on the rear. And preferably, IMO, they should be a Campagnolo free hub and Campagnolo cassette. Though again, you can use a wheel that has a Shimano/SRAM compatible free hub and cassette.
Typically new wheels don't come with a cassette on them. You should know what this wheel has on it in your picture. The cassette from your existing wheel might be able to go on it. But not if one is Campagnolo and the other Shimano/SRAM. In many instances, Shimano free hubs can deal with cassettes of one or two more sprockets or less sprockets. Campy probably does too. But I don't know for certain.
For issues that deal with mechanical stuff of your bicycle, the Bicycle Mechanics is a better place to post those type questions. You'll get more notice from those that do know and less from those that don't know for certain.... which is me.
#15
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Joined: Jul 2023
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Well you say 10 speed bike. But unlike the old days, you seem to be simply adding the front two sprockets to the rear eight sprockets. BITD, we use to multiply those two numbers.
However for the last 25 years and even into the previous century, most experienced with cycling will only refer to a bikes speeds as the number of sprockets on the rear. Unless of course it's a IGH hub and you only see the one external sprocket.
Though confusingly some cheap bike manufacturers and retailers of cheap things still refer to them by the rear and front multiplied together. Don't be one of them!
The picture of the wheel you show is a bad angle and fuzzy. I only count 9 sprockets on it. You say you have Chorus 8. So you should be looking for a wheel with 8 sprockets on the rear. And preferably, IMO, they should be a Campagnolo free hub and Campagnolo cassette. Though again, you can use a wheel that has a Shimano/SRAM compatible free hub and cassette.
Typically new wheels don't come with a cassette on them. You should know what this wheel has on it in your picture. The cassette from your existing wheel might be able to go on it. But not if one is Campagnolo and the other Shimano/SRAM. In many instances, Shimano free hubs can deal with cassettes of one or two more sprockets or less sprockets. Campy probably does too. But I don't know for certain.
For issues that deal with mechanical stuff of your bicycle, the Bicycle Mechanics is a better place to post those type questions. You'll get more notice from those that do know and less from those that don't know for certain.... which is me.
However for the last 25 years and even into the previous century, most experienced with cycling will only refer to a bikes speeds as the number of sprockets on the rear. Unless of course it's a IGH hub and you only see the one external sprocket.
Though confusingly some cheap bike manufacturers and retailers of cheap things still refer to them by the rear and front multiplied together. Don't be one of them!
The picture of the wheel you show is a bad angle and fuzzy. I only count 9 sprockets on it. You say you have Chorus 8. So you should be looking for a wheel with 8 sprockets on the rear. And preferably, IMO, they should be a Campagnolo free hub and Campagnolo cassette. Though again, you can use a wheel that has a Shimano/SRAM compatible free hub and cassette.
Typically new wheels don't come with a cassette on them. You should know what this wheel has on it in your picture. The cassette from your existing wheel might be able to go on it. But not if one is Campagnolo and the other Shimano/SRAM. In many instances, Shimano free hubs can deal with cassettes of one or two more sprockets or less sprockets. Campy probably does too. But I don't know for certain.
For issues that deal with mechanical stuff of your bicycle, the Bicycle Mechanics is a better place to post those type questions. You'll get more notice from those that do know and less from those that don't know for certain.... which is me.
#16
Facts just confuse people




Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 19,317
Likes: 7,049
From: Mississippi
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Instead of focusing on what to you might seem negative comments from me. You should be focusing on clearing up any confusion I and other's might have. Or answering some of the questions ask of you and posing more questions to get you some more information on how to figure out if a new or used wheel will fit your bike.
#17
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Well you might get negative comments made for double posting. You already are here.
Instead of focusing on what to you might seem negative comments from me. You should be focusing on clearing up any confusion I and other's might have. Or answering some of the questions ask of you and posing more questions to get you some more information on how to figure out if a new or used wheel will fit your bike.
Instead of focusing on what to you might seem negative comments from me. You should be focusing on clearing up any confusion I and other's might have. Or answering some of the questions ask of you and posing more questions to get you some more information on how to figure out if a new or used wheel will fit your bike.
now to clear it all up:
- I have an aluminium roadbike, about 30years, old bought 2nd hand
- the bike has a chorus 8 speed drivetrain, 8 sprockets in the rear and 2 chainring on the front. It is all campagnolo
- I would like to switch wheels from the current tubulars to clinchers
- the wheels are 700c
- I would like to know if it is possible to just switch the cassette on a different wheel, so that I can keep the original cassette
- I am still learning the terminology and everything, so I would also like to kow about the hubs or anything else I should take into account when looking at wheels to buy
- I would like to know what kid of wheels I can put on the bike, so it works smoothly and doesn't break the bike.
If any of you can help me understand any of this, it would be great thank you for your help so far, I have learned a lot!
#18
pan y agua

Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Jacksonville
Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike
You can switch your existing cassette to new wheels, s long as the new wheels are campy 8 speed compatible.
However, it’s like the cassette needs replacing anyway if it’s on a 30 year old bike, depending on when the cassette was last replaced and how the bike has been maintained.
If the goal is to avoid the cost of $60 tubulars, buying a new wheelset isn’t going to be cost effective. Not only will the cheapest new wheels cost a multiple of that, the tools to switch out he cassette will cost close to $60.
Your most cost effective answer may be to sell the bike, and buy another used bike with clincher tires.
Or learn how to repair tubular tires.
However, it’s like the cassette needs replacing anyway if it’s on a 30 year old bike, depending on when the cassette was last replaced and how the bike has been maintained.
If the goal is to avoid the cost of $60 tubulars, buying a new wheelset isn’t going to be cost effective. Not only will the cheapest new wheels cost a multiple of that, the tools to switch out he cassette will cost close to $60.
Your most cost effective answer may be to sell the bike, and buy another used bike with clincher tires.
Or learn how to repair tubular tires.
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You could hit a tree and die.
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#19
Facts just confuse people




Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 19,317
Likes: 7,049
From: Mississippi
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Likely the front fork spacing is 100mm. And 130mm dropout spacing on the rear. That also will be the OLD that the hubs will need to be for any wheel.
Since it's a used bike, you probably don't really know if that is the original wheel. Or if it is a Campagnolo cassette and free hub. Which might affect what you want to replace it with. Without know what they are on the current bike, you can't assume just because everything else is Campy that the wheel free hub and cassette are too. Unless you are able to make out the branding and part numbers on them still. If you post a picture of the free hub with out the cassette or the picture of the cassette when off the bike, we can tell by the pattern of the hole in the middle of the sprockets.
And why are you needing to replace the current wheels? Those pictured are not anything special. They aren't aero enough to be beneficial over any old rim with a flatter profile.
Since it's a used bike, you probably don't really know if that is the original wheel. Or if it is a Campagnolo cassette and free hub. Which might affect what you want to replace it with. Without know what they are on the current bike, you can't assume just because everything else is Campy that the wheel free hub and cassette are too. Unless you are able to make out the branding and part numbers on them still. If you post a picture of the free hub with out the cassette or the picture of the cassette when off the bike, we can tell by the pattern of the hole in the middle of the sprockets.
And why are you needing to replace the current wheels? Those pictured are not anything special. They aren't aero enough to be beneficial over any old rim with a flatter profile.
#20
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You can switch your existing cassette to new wheels, s long as the new wheels are campy 8 speed compatible.
However, it’s like the cassette needs replacing anyway if it’s on a 30 year old bike, depending on when the cassette was last replaced and how the bike has been maintained.
If the goal is to avoid the cost of $60 tubulars, buying a new wheelset isn’t going to be cost effective. Not only will the cheapest new wheels cost a multiple of that, the tools to switch out he cassette will cost close to $60.
Your most cost effective answer may be to sell the bike, and buy another used bike with clincher tires.
Or learn how to repair tubular tires.
However, it’s like the cassette needs replacing anyway if it’s on a 30 year old bike, depending on when the cassette was last replaced and how the bike has been maintained.
If the goal is to avoid the cost of $60 tubulars, buying a new wheelset isn’t going to be cost effective. Not only will the cheapest new wheels cost a multiple of that, the tools to switch out he cassette will cost close to $60.
Your most cost effective answer may be to sell the bike, and buy another used bike with clincher tires.
Or learn how to repair tubular tires.
#21
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2023
Posts: 65
Likes: 3
Likely the front fork spacing is 100mm. And 130mm dropout spacing on the rear. That also will be the OLD that the hubs will need to be for any wheel.
Since it's a used bike, you probably don't really know if that is the original wheel. Or if it is a Campagnolo cassette and free hub. Which might affect what you want to replace it with. Without know what they are on the current bike, you can't assume just because everything else is Campy that the wheel free hub and cassette are too. Unless you are able to make out the branding and part numbers on them still. If you post a picture of the free hub with out the cassette or the picture of the cassette when off the bike, we can tell by the pattern of the hole in the middle of the sprockets.
And why are you needing to replace the current wheels? Those pictured are not anything special. They aren't aero enough to be beneficial over any old rim with a flatter profile.
Since it's a used bike, you probably don't really know if that is the original wheel. Or if it is a Campagnolo cassette and free hub. Which might affect what you want to replace it with. Without know what they are on the current bike, you can't assume just because everything else is Campy that the wheel free hub and cassette are too. Unless you are able to make out the branding and part numbers on them still. If you post a picture of the free hub with out the cassette or the picture of the cassette when off the bike, we can tell by the pattern of the hole in the middle of the sprockets.
And why are you needing to replace the current wheels? Those pictured are not anything special. They aren't aero enough to be beneficial over any old rim with a flatter profile.





