Seat Height...Where on Saddle to Measure???
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Washington, DC/ Köln, Germany
Posts: 584
Bikes: Bianchi, Olmo
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Been reading lately about different ways to measure seat height. I usually do it the LeMond way from the BB to the top of the seat.
My question now is where exactly on the seat one should measure. I used to measure at the mid-point of the saddle (where it says Titanium on a Flite saddle). Now Ive been thinking that since as a roadie, I almost never sit in the middle cupped section, but rather farther back on the saddle, is it wise to measure saddle height more towards the rear of the saddle?
Im not suggesting measuring at the rear lip but rather a few cm back from the midpoint, where most saddles flare out a bit and get wider.
Anyone?
Ive noticed that my seat height varies from about 75.2cm at the saddles dead center point, to 76.5 if I measure a few cm's to the rear. Theoretically since ones butt is usually farther back, why do so many saddle height diagrams show it being measured at the midpoint? Even UCI rules say to measure it at "14cm behind the nose."
My question now is where exactly on the seat one should measure. I used to measure at the mid-point of the saddle (where it says Titanium on a Flite saddle). Now Ive been thinking that since as a roadie, I almost never sit in the middle cupped section, but rather farther back on the saddle, is it wise to measure saddle height more towards the rear of the saddle?
Im not suggesting measuring at the rear lip but rather a few cm back from the midpoint, where most saddles flare out a bit and get wider.
Anyone?
Ive noticed that my seat height varies from about 75.2cm at the saddles dead center point, to 76.5 if I measure a few cm's to the rear. Theoretically since ones butt is usually farther back, why do so many saddle height diagrams show it being measured at the midpoint? Even UCI rules say to measure it at "14cm behind the nose."
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 3,162
Bikes: Litespeed Firenze / GT Avalanche
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
That is probably a reasonable place to measure. Just remember, you are not really trying to get the seat at a certain height. What you are trying to do is to get your hips and legs in the right position for pedaling. The sizer measurments just get you into the ballpark. I think the only way to get it right is with your rump on the saddle and feet on the pedals. Once you get it where you want it, you can measure to a solid point, like the rails, for repeatablility.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,850
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by H20.1
Been reading lately about different ways to measure seat height. I usually do it the LeMond way from the BB to the top of the seat.
My question now is where exactly on the seat one should measure. I used to measure at the mid-point of the saddle (where it says Titanium on a Flite saddle). Now Ive been thinking that since as a roadie, I almost never sit in the middle cupped section, but rather farther back on the saddle, is it wise to measure saddle height more towards the rear of the saddle?
Im not suggesting measuring at the rear lip but rather a few cm back from the midpoint, where most saddles flare out a bit and get wider.
Anyone?
Ive noticed that my seat height varies from about 75.2cm at the saddles dead center point, to 76.5 if I measure a few cm's to the rear. Theoretically since ones butt is usually farther back, why do so many saddle height diagrams show it being measured at the midpoint? Even UCI rules say to measure it at "14cm behind the nose."
My question now is where exactly on the seat one should measure. I used to measure at the mid-point of the saddle (where it says Titanium on a Flite saddle). Now Ive been thinking that since as a roadie, I almost never sit in the middle cupped section, but rather farther back on the saddle, is it wise to measure saddle height more towards the rear of the saddle?
Im not suggesting measuring at the rear lip but rather a few cm back from the midpoint, where most saddles flare out a bit and get wider.
Anyone?
Ive noticed that my seat height varies from about 75.2cm at the saddles dead center point, to 76.5 if I measure a few cm's to the rear. Theoretically since ones butt is usually farther back, why do so many saddle height diagrams show it being measured at the midpoint? Even UCI rules say to measure it at "14cm behind the nose."
George
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Washington, DC/ Köln, Germany
Posts: 584
Bikes: Bianchi, Olmo
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Avalanche325
That is probably a reasonable place to measure. Just remember, you are not really trying to get the seat at a certain height. What you are trying to do is to get your hips and legs in the right position for pedaling. The sizer measurments just get you into the ballpark. I think the only way to get it right is with your rump on the saddle and feet on the pedals. Once you get it where you want it, you can measure to a solid point, like the rails, for repeatablility.
Right. Ive never had major issues with seat height, just was curious as to what others were doing, because it seems as with anything related to measuring in this sport, everyone does things a little differently.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Northern California
Posts: 10,879
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 104 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
I don't think any of the seat height techniques based on tape measures are very accurate. Better is to actually sit on the saddle and watch how your legs bend and how your hips rock.
My favorite method is to measure your leg angle when you are sitting in your favorite spot on the saddle and your foot is at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Try to get an angle around 30 degrees.
Another popular technique is to find a seat height where your hips to not rock up and down when you're pedalling.
My favorite method is to measure your leg angle when you are sitting in your favorite spot on the saddle and your foot is at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Try to get an angle around 30 degrees.
Another popular technique is to find a seat height where your hips to not rock up and down when you're pedalling.
#6
Well, duh, Mr Obvious.
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: NIU town
Posts: 2,271
Bikes: see sig, and others
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
.
My favorite method is to measure your leg angle when you are sitting in your favorite spot on the saddle and your foot is at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Try to get an angle around 30 degrees.
If I wanted to do this, would I have to pilfer my son's protractor?
My favorite method is to measure your leg angle when you are sitting in your favorite spot on the saddle and your foot is at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Try to get an angle around 30 degrees.
If I wanted to do this, would I have to pilfer my son's protractor?
__________________
03 Specialized Allez CrMo-Singlespeed conversion
03 Specialized Allez CrMo-Singlespeed conversion
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 298
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
it doesn't matter what point you measure to, as long as you measure to the same spot every time. measuring to the saddle rails can cause problems if you swap saddles since different saddles have different heights.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,250
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
7 Posts
Your problems in applying the mathematical formulas shows the flaws in the formulas. Most of the formulas have no way to factor in the shape of the saddle, the type of pedals that you use, the shoes you wear, the type of shorts you wear...factors that can add or subtract as much as half an inch to your riding position.
A well known coach did tests on his team using one of the well-known formulas and found that it worked okay for most guys on the team, but several riders did much better with their seat much lower than the formula called for.
Bottom line: mathematical forumulas are a starting place for setting saddle height. Then, you need to ride the bike and see how it feels. What does your knee lock like at the bottom of the stroke? A slight bend in the knee, or straight? Are you rocking from side to side? Is your crotch area hurting or numb after a long ride?
In actual practice, I've found that I ride better with the saddle about a half inch or even an inch lower than the formulas designed for Pro riders. That enables me to have little or no weight on the saddle when one foot is at 6 0'clock. I can coast over rough pavement with that leg straight, and my rear 1/2 inch above the saddle. I have a distinct bend in my knee with the pedal at 6 o'clock, rather than the "almost" straight leg of a Pro rider. But, my knees feel better after a ride than before, so it works for me.
After I "dial in" a preferred height, I keep careful notes. I measure straight up the center of the seat tube and the seatpost to the top surface of the saddle at the point that is directly over the top of the seat post. I use saddles that are almost dead flat across the sitting area, and keep them level. So, if I replace the saddle, that height will also work for the replacement saddle.
Some of my cranks are 170mm and some are 175mm. Most of my pedals are "thick" BMX pedals, but a few are the 70's style racing pedals. That 5mm or so variation in saddle height does not seem noticeable in actual practice, so I don't vary saddle height bike to bike.
A well known coach did tests on his team using one of the well-known formulas and found that it worked okay for most guys on the team, but several riders did much better with their seat much lower than the formula called for.
Bottom line: mathematical forumulas are a starting place for setting saddle height. Then, you need to ride the bike and see how it feels. What does your knee lock like at the bottom of the stroke? A slight bend in the knee, or straight? Are you rocking from side to side? Is your crotch area hurting or numb after a long ride?
In actual practice, I've found that I ride better with the saddle about a half inch or even an inch lower than the formulas designed for Pro riders. That enables me to have little or no weight on the saddle when one foot is at 6 0'clock. I can coast over rough pavement with that leg straight, and my rear 1/2 inch above the saddle. I have a distinct bend in my knee with the pedal at 6 o'clock, rather than the "almost" straight leg of a Pro rider. But, my knees feel better after a ride than before, so it works for me.
After I "dial in" a preferred height, I keep careful notes. I measure straight up the center of the seat tube and the seatpost to the top surface of the saddle at the point that is directly over the top of the seat post. I use saddles that are almost dead flat across the sitting area, and keep them level. So, if I replace the saddle, that height will also work for the replacement saddle.
Some of my cranks are 170mm and some are 175mm. Most of my pedals are "thick" BMX pedals, but a few are the 70's style racing pedals. That 5mm or so variation in saddle height does not seem noticeable in actual practice, so I don't vary saddle height bike to bike.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Northern California
Posts: 10,879
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 104 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
Originally Posted by alanbikehouston
Your problems in applying the mathematical formulas shows the flaws in the formulas. Most of the formulas have no way to factor in the shape of the saddle, the type of pedals that you use, the shoes you wear, the type of shorts you wear...factors that can add or subtract as much as half an inch to your riding position.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Washington, DC/ Köln, Germany
Posts: 584
Bikes: Bianchi, Olmo
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by alanbikehouston
Your problems in applying the mathematical formulas shows the flaws in the formulas. Most of the formulas have no way to factor in the shape of the saddle, the type of pedals that you use, the shoes you wear, the type of shorts you wear...factors that can add or subtract as much as half an inch to your riding position.
A well known coach did tests on his team using one of the well-known formulas and found that it worked okay for most guys on the team, but several riders did much better with their seat much lower than the formula called for.
Bottom line: mathematical forumulas are a starting place for setting saddle height. Then, you need to ride the bike and see how it feels. What does your knee lock like at the bottom of the stroke? A slight bend in the knee, or straight? Are you rocking from side to side? Is your crotch area hurting or numb after a long ride?
In actual practice, I've found that I ride better with the saddle about a half inch or even an inch lower than the formulas designed for Pro riders. That enables me to have little or no weight on the saddle when one foot is at 6 0'clock. I can coast over rough pavement with that leg straight, and my rear 1/2 inch above the saddle. I have a distinct bend in my knee with the pedal at 6 o'clock, rather than the "almost" straight leg of a Pro rider. But, my knees feel better after a ride than before, so it works for me.
After I "dial in" a preferred height, I keep careful notes. I measure straight up the center of the seat tube and the seatpost to the top surface of the saddle at the point that is directly over the top of the seat post. I use saddles that are almost dead flat across the sitting area, and keep them level. So, if I replace the saddle, that height will also work for the replacement saddle.
Some of my cranks are 170mm and some are 175mm. Most of my pedals are "thick" BMX pedals, but a few are the 70's style racing pedals. That 5mm or so variation in saddle height does not seem noticeable in actual practice, so I don't vary saddle height bike to bike.
A well known coach did tests on his team using one of the well-known formulas and found that it worked okay for most guys on the team, but several riders did much better with their seat much lower than the formula called for.
Bottom line: mathematical forumulas are a starting place for setting saddle height. Then, you need to ride the bike and see how it feels. What does your knee lock like at the bottom of the stroke? A slight bend in the knee, or straight? Are you rocking from side to side? Is your crotch area hurting or numb after a long ride?
In actual practice, I've found that I ride better with the saddle about a half inch or even an inch lower than the formulas designed for Pro riders. That enables me to have little or no weight on the saddle when one foot is at 6 0'clock. I can coast over rough pavement with that leg straight, and my rear 1/2 inch above the saddle. I have a distinct bend in my knee with the pedal at 6 o'clock, rather than the "almost" straight leg of a Pro rider. But, my knees feel better after a ride than before, so it works for me.
After I "dial in" a preferred height, I keep careful notes. I measure straight up the center of the seat tube and the seatpost to the top surface of the saddle at the point that is directly over the top of the seat post. I use saddles that are almost dead flat across the sitting area, and keep them level. So, if I replace the saddle, that height will also work for the replacement saddle.
Some of my cranks are 170mm and some are 175mm. Most of my pedals are "thick" BMX pedals, but a few are the 70's style racing pedals. That 5mm or so variation in saddle height does not seem noticeable in actual practice, so I don't vary saddle height bike to bike.
As long as Ive been riding tho, Ive never seen anyone really specify what is meant by measuring to the "top of the saddle"
UCI rules say its 14cm from the nose...most diagrams show running the tape parallel to the seat tube which usually puts the top at the mid-point on the saddle. This doesnt seem to make sense though, considering that almost no one sits on that part of the saddle when road riding. usually you are riding towards the rear on the "meat" of it..and of course that changes your height measurement when you measure farther back.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,850
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by H20.1
Whatever works of course. I just find that some formulas like LeMond seem to get you pretty close to ideal. Thickness of shorts or cleats can be accounted for if you measure your soles and take an inseam while wearing your cycling shorts. Typically being off by a cm or so wont throw the measurements out of whack.
As long as Ive been riding tho, Ive never seen anyone really specify what is meant by measuring to the "top of the saddle"
UCI rules say its 14cm from the nose...most diagrams show running the tape parallel to the seat tube which usually puts the top at the mid-point on the saddle. This doesnt seem to make sense though, considering that almost no one sits on that part of the saddle when road riding. usually you are riding towards the rear on the "meat" of it..and of course that changes your height measurement when you measure farther back.
As long as Ive been riding tho, Ive never seen anyone really specify what is meant by measuring to the "top of the saddle"
UCI rules say its 14cm from the nose...most diagrams show running the tape parallel to the seat tube which usually puts the top at the mid-point on the saddle. This doesnt seem to make sense though, considering that almost no one sits on that part of the saddle when road riding. usually you are riding towards the rear on the "meat" of it..and of course that changes your height measurement when you measure farther back.
George
Last edited by biker7; 09-20-05 at 11:15 AM.