Specific tool question
#1
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Specific tool question
Hey guys, I am looking for a tool to adjust the spokes and true wheels. I hear a true stand is not required? I believe with some time, I can get the wheel pretty true(When I learn how to do it).
I assume that this is a good investment and I won't have to keep having my wheels trued at LBS's for $9 a wheel.
What is this tool called and should I just refer to Parktools for their tool or just use their guide to trueing?
Thanks!
I assume that this is a good investment and I won't have to keep having my wheels trued at LBS's for $9 a wheel.
What is this tool called and should I just refer to Parktools for their tool or just use their guide to trueing?
Thanks!
#2
Back to being a Clyde....
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Bikes: Giant OCR1(specialized carbon seatpost,Terry Fly sadle, Syntace C2): Leader TT frame, Easton EC70fork, Aerolite bars, nashbar bullhorn, Titan Wheels: Fuji Track Pro(2003)
Spoke wrench.
Came as part of my "emergency miracle tool" which I carry in my saddlebag.
One also came with my basic tool set.
p.s. Did you bother to go to the Park Tools site to see what it says about wheel truing? It lists all the tools that you might need to true a wheel. As you read through the instructions, you will see which ones you will actually need...
https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=81
Came as part of my "emergency miracle tool" which I carry in my saddlebag.
One also came with my basic tool set.
p.s. Did you bother to go to the Park Tools site to see what it says about wheel truing? It lists all the tools that you might need to true a wheel. As you read through the instructions, you will see which ones you will actually need...
https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=81
#3
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Originally Posted by ovoleg
What is this tool called and should I just refer to Parktools for their tool or just use their guide to trueing?

If you have to constantly get your wheels trued, there's something wrong; most likely too low of spoke-tension overall. Constant truing also causes wheels to go out quicker as well from loose worn nipples. A high-strength, long-lasting wheel will have some kind of thread-locking compound in the threads to hold the nipples in place.
Another tool that's almost more important than the spoke-wrench is the spoke tensiometer.
#4
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A cheap truing stand from Nashbar or Performance Bike is very affordable -- with a discount coupon for either of these places, you can pick up the "Minoura" or "Spin Doctor" truing stand (they're identical) for a little over $30, and with a spoke wrench that comes out to roughly $40-something including shipping. With the stand and the spoke wrench, you can true your wheels anytime you want, rebuild them if necessary, or build your own that will be much sturdier and last much longer than the generic machine-made wheels you get with most bikes.
A wheel that you've put in the love and care to true yourself is a beautiful thing! Mine go out of true only once or twice a year and only if I hit a pothole or rode on the rim while the tire was flat.
Have fun!
-Kevin
A wheel that you've put in the love and care to true yourself is a beautiful thing! Mine go out of true only once or twice a year and only if I hit a pothole or rode on the rim while the tire was flat.
Have fun!
-Kevin
#5
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the wheel is jacked up, I wen't over a few huge crater sized bumps on the roads so I'm not surprised but I still feel pulsating when I break(this is after trueing)
How do I fix the pulsation issue? The brakes are aligned perfectly and it seems that the wheel is pretty true(my eyes say so). Maybe its finally bent?
ARgh
Thanks guys! I will make sure and pick those up. Its only the front wheel BTW, POS thing
How do I fix the pulsation issue? The brakes are aligned perfectly and it seems that the wheel is pretty true(my eyes say so). Maybe its finally bent?
ARgh
Thanks guys! I will make sure and pick those up. Its only the front wheel BTW, POS thing
#6
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If your wheel is true and you get that "pulsation" while braking, then your rim is bent or dented. I would replace it if it's really bad -- i.e., replace the rim and rebuild the wheel -- because when you go fast downhill, for example, and you're getting that jerky, unpredictable braking, it's just an accident waiting to happen.
-Kevin
-Kevin
#7
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From: Mesa, AZ
Bikes: Moots RCS, tandem, beach-cruiser, MTB, Specialized-Allez road-bike, custom track-bike
Yeah, by the time you can feel it in the brakes, the rim's pretty much completely toasted. Really easy to replace rims, just tape the new rim right next to the old one. Loosen up all the spokes, then transfer them one at a time to the new one using new nipples. Add a drop of blue Loctite, transfer all the spokes over, true and you're good to go.




