Fivetenfrank

All,

I am brand new road bike owner, having previously been a Sport Class Mountain biker for about 10 years or so.

My question is this: On my MTN Bike I am a decent climber. However, the big thing I am noticing on my road bike is that I am terrible climber. I seem to run out of gears fast, and on the few group rides I have been on, I got guys passing me and it seems like they are spinning at a higher cadence with less effort.

Now, I am not idiot, and I know that fitness has alot to do with the equation. I know its going to take some time to get used to riding a road bike with a completely different gearing combo then my mountain bike. All that aside, my question mainly focuses on my current gear setup.

I have a 2006 Jamis Ventura Comp with a Compact Crank with 5036 and a 12-25 rear nine speed. Would I benefit from a different gear combo?

Al1943

You're already geared pretty low. With standard 9-speed equipment you could replace the 36 with a 34 and change the cassette to a 12-27. This would make a significant difference, but for most riding I would prefer the gearing you already have with closer ratios.

Al

'nother

Yes, but you don't have much lower to go without making some heavier modifications.

Gearing on road bikes is a lot higher than mountain bikes. So it makes a little sense for you to say you are a decent climber on MTB but not road.

Easiest/quickest mod is to go for a 12-27 cassette. That doesn't get you much. You could try putting a "mountain" cassette (e.g. 30+ teeth largest cog) on, but be aware your existing rear derailer may not handle it (most are spec'ced to 27 teeth, can handle 28 or 29 easily, some maybe 30 but usually not more than that). So if you go that route you may need a new derailer ("mountain"). You could also try changing out your 36 chainring for a 34. A 34 in combination with a 27 cassette gets you pretty low gearing.

Unfortunately, none of this will make you a better climber -- it'll just make it a little easier.

joejack951

FiveTenFrank, where outside of Philly do you ride anyway?

To be on topic, the guys' replies have offered good advice. Do you know what gearing the guys you are riding with are using? For some of the hills in my area, I love having a 30 tooth granny ring and a 25 in the rear on my all weather bike. My climbing bike has a low gear of 30-27.

Extort

30-27?

What kind of hill percent and RPM are you handling with that low of a gear combo?
I think that I would be spinning pretty fast using that gear...

Fivetenfrank

Joe, I ride in Ridley Creek State Park, Valley Forge, Fairmount Park. I have only had the bike out a few times this year.

In response to the other person who asked if I knew what my friends were riding, I know two guys are riding standard cranks as opposed to the compact that I am riding. I am not sure what type of rear cassette they are using.

I guess my problem is that when I am on my MTN bike, I am never really riding any long steep climbs. Most of the climbing I am doing are quick "power climbs" where I just hammer the climb hard and fast.

All of the climbs I have been getting dropped on have been long, steep climbs where I am ok in the beginning of the climb but fade about alf way up.

bluecd

since you're already running 50/36 with a 12/25 you dont need a gear switch. you need time in the saddle. it will get better.

joejack951

I used that gear on the 21+% climbs in the Highlander last fall. Can't remember my cadence exactly but I was moving at around 7mph on the steepest sections.

joejack951

I'm about 15 miles south of Ridley Creek State Park. I'll often ride out that way as there are some great roads with some fun climbs.

Sounds like all you need to work on is conserving energy during a longer climb. Just keep climbing. I'd suggest Gradyville Road through RCSP (if you don't already ride this road) and Stony Bank Road headed towards Route 1 (a couple miles south of the park).

matagi

Just a thought but .... maybe it is actually your technique that needs fixing here.

Are you perhaps attacking the hill too fast at the beginning? If you are used to quick power climbs on your MTB, some of that may be creeping into your approach to long steep climbs, so you expend all your energy early on and then run out of steam.

As others have already suggested, replacing the rear casette with a 12-27 will give you slightly lower gearing and is an easy mod.

Fivetenfrank

I concur. I think part of the problem is yes, I am used to short hard attacks on the MTB and the guys I am riding with are seasoned roadies and I am trying to hold their wheels (and failing) while climbing.

I may look into a 12-27 but I think I am going to put some miles on my current setup to see if saddle time is just what the Dr. ordered.

terrymorse 

Here's my manifesto for low gears:

I was forced to climb yesterday in my 34/27 lowest gear, and I was wishing for something lower. When the lights go out, it's not a pretty sight. I was climbing the back side of Mt. Hamilton after about 8000' of spirited climbing that day -- after a peppy 4600' climbing session the day before -- and my legs finally just stopped working. I seriously thought about just getting off the bike and sitting on the side of the road, but I fought through the pain to the summit.

It sure is nice to have a bail out gear when you need it. 34/27 IS my bail out gear!

ultraman6970

get campy legs

gregm

And what mph on the way up?

-Greg

cyclintom

Climbing on a mountain bike is a lot different than climbing on a road bike. You'll have to get used to the way it feels and the differences in technique. If you're ridden enough in the last ten years to build up fitness in your legs it will come pretty quickly.

Otherwise it may take a year or two of constant training to bring your legs on line.

I know that every year I get better and I'm almost 62 now.

cyclintom

Yeah Terry, but you're built like a twig. (Not a Twigg).

terrymorse 

Maybe I should hit the leg press machine. It's always my legs that give up the fight. At the end of Everest Challenge, they were like Gumby's legs.

joejack951

You know, I almost wrote back a slightly snappy comment until I realized that last smiley wasn't rolling it's eyes at me Sadly (or not so sadly for fear of serious injury) the Highlander course does not take you down any of the super steep sections. I did manage to hit 48mph coasting down one short-ish hill though.

terrymorse 

I wasn't going to say anything, but you opened the door.

7 mph up a 21% grade is over 7700 ft/hr. Possible in a sprint, but impossible otherwise. It would require a power to weight ratio of about 8 to maintain that speed.

Even 5 mph would be world class.

joejack951

Sorry, should have clarified "21+% peak" on that climb. Sounds better when I just say the 21+% part though And kinda justifies a 30-27, right?

Jet-man

I'm glad someone called BS on the 7 mph up a 21% grade. Maybe for a few seconds sprinting like a mofo, but if that's the average, you're a pro. Christ, I went up Mt Evans last year (from Denver) and was going like 3 around some of the last steep switchbacks.

A compact w/ a 25 is a already a crazy easy gear. Do not get a 27 - people that use those tiny gears (unless you're going up 20+% grades for extended periods which 99.99% of cyclists are not) go so fricking slow it's laughable.

I agree w/ bluecd - you're fine w/ the 25, just ride more.

fmw

I have a couple of road bikes with 50/36 compact cranks and I even have a triple. I also have an old Motobecane with 53/39 in the front and a 12/23 6 speed in the rear. I take all of these bikes up the same hills. Sometimes I get a red face and pant a lot getting the 26 1/2 lb Moto and my somewhat overweight 61 year old body up some of the hills, but, in the end, I get there just like I do with the lighter more modern bikes with lower gearing.

Put a few thousand miles on your odometer. I'll bet you'll be a better climber after that.

By the way, I really like the triple. It has a 42 tooth middle ring that handles everything for me from 7 mph to 25 mph and that's about the range that I ride 98% of the time. I don't use the front derailleur much at all on that bike. I'd be content with a 42 tooth single speed up front. I really would.

dekalbSTEEL

Are you mostly sitting on these long climbs, or are you getting out of the saddle and mashing?

rallen

Ride more... I think that is what I need too. But in the mean time I am putting a 12-27 in place of my 12- 25 for some longer mountain rides this summer, staying with a 53- 39 in the front, not sure what kind of difference that will make. I'll let y'all know.

bluecd

you'll like that 27 with the 39. it will make a noticable difference.