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Originally Posted by rekmeyata
(Post 21877821)
So how long do those Gravel King tires hold up? Would they perform well on a loaded touring bike?
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Originally Posted by SCTinkering
(Post 21892640)
I've got about 1k on them so far and they look like new. Loaded up for touring will wear them a bit more, but consult the correct pressure for the load and surface 4-5k shouldn't be out of the question.
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Originally Posted by gioscinelli
(Post 20584025)
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1ba98380b0.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f3f194ba8a.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...722e5ec290.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...258ed8d386.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...39b5bf9a60.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...277b86a4fc.jpg Over the years, I've had several titanium bike (buy and sell), but the Moots is my current favorite! I weighed the Moots 16.2 lbs, and it weighs nearly the same as my Colnago C40 16.1 lbs, with nearly the same equipment! |
Originally Posted by downhillmaster
(Post 20908940)
My new T6.
Couldn’t pass up on the deal on a leftover 2017 discontinued model. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...503dc3dec.jpeg |
Stems?
I've got a Lynskey GR300 on the way and will have carbon Enve bars.
What do you folks think about stems? Ti or carbon would be nice but expensive. Basic aluminum would do the job but would it affect the ride quality? I had a Shockstop stem on my prior aluminum bike but think it might be too noodly on the Lynskey. Thoughts? |
I have a Lynskey R300 and Shockstop stem. The combination results in an extremely smooth ride. Long rides are non fatiguing and the stress on my wrists has disappeared.
I have not noticed any "noodly" ride. Then again I am 145lb at 5'7" so your results may vary. |
Originally Posted by FrankTuna
(Post 21942557)
I've got a Lynskey GR300 on the way and will have carbon Enve bars.
What do you folks think about stems? Ti or carbon would be nice but expensive. Basic aluminum would do the job but would it affect the ride quality? I had a Shockstop stem on my prior aluminum bike but think it might be too noodly on the Lynskey. Thoughts? |
Comparison Ti List
I have been a followed this thread for years...love Ti and just bought my 15 year old a new one. My question: with all the new companies out there making Ti bikes and all the changes in old Ti builders does anyone have a compare/contrast article to point to that details the differences, pros and cons from each? That would be a cool article.
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Most people just want to know about the latest & greatest.. most titanium frames are built to last a lifetime, for 90% of performance needs of the masses.
The ultra-lightweight, super thin-walled ti frames may save a few ounces, but you really need a reputable frame builder with lots of experience to ensure the durability doesn't get compromised during the welding process. Personally, after riding different ti frames for nearly 3 decades, I can't say that there are significant contrast to the overall ride quality between modern vs older (10+ y-o) ti frames. If you can find a used ti frame at significant lower price than a new one, likely it's going to last you longer than you can pedal without accidents. More importantly, to know for yourself what you're looking for in a frame, what is your intended purpose & how much is your budget for your next frame? |
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I posted this Airborne Zeppelin back in 2018, but I just finished rebuilding it. It did have a mix of 9 speed Tiagra 4500, 105, Ultegra 6500, which I switched out to all 10 speed Ultegra 6700 components., except the 5700 STI levers. The crankset is 50/34 with a 12/28 cassette. I got a really good price on the group from a couple of different sellers. The whole group is in great shape with not much use. I also switched out the saddle, handlebar and tape, stem and bags, tires, and cables/housing. While I had it torn down to bare frame/fork, I used blue Scothbrite pads with Goo Gone, then soap and water, and then polished with wax and finally lubed all. The bike is looking really fine and everything is operating very well. Definitely going to put a lot of time and miles on this one in 2021.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...103dfe34e9.jpg |
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...de2cab25e0.jpg
My Merlin. I first posted images of this bike way back on page 5 of this thread I think, MANY years ago. Still going strong. |
don't want to derail the thread, but with a budget of $2000 , what would be the best bike to get in titanium. I want an all day rider with some gravel capabilities. I never have had a titanium only steel bikes. used , new?? thanks in advance
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Originally Posted by rossiny
(Post 21953257)
don't want to derail the thread, but with a budget of $2000 , what would be the best bike to get in titanium. I want an all day rider with some gravel capabilities. I never have had a titanium only steel bikes. used , new?? thanks in advance
If you are comfortable building up a bike you could consider a used frame and get new components. BikesDirect also had some nice Ti Gravel bikes but they are out of stock and a higher price point. |
I'm using a Shokstop on my Litespeed Vortex and it helps with road vibration, making it a smoother ride. No noodling that I can tell. I'm 5'8" and 168 lbs.
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Originally Posted by cat0020
(Post 21946684)
Personally, after riding different ti frames for nearly 3 decades, I can't say that there are significant contrast to the overall ride quality between modern vs older (10+ y-o) ti frames.
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Shaping & tubing manipulation in titanium is similar process that steel, but the tooling required are much more expensive and those tool fail at higher frequency than steel work tooling.
Cost to fabricate different shaped, tappered, non-uniformed diameter titanium tubes is significantly higher than steel or aluminum. Seems to me the pinnacle of ti frame tube shaping & drawing had passed when large ti frame fabricator like Litespeed stopped making custom shaped & drawn 6/4 ti tubing. Larger headset bearings, thru-axles, those impact that make frame stability under higher stress conditions do not apply to riders of ALL shapes & sizes. If you're a lighter rider as myself, the "impact" of those improvements don't quite justify the cost increase, when compared to a used ti frame that can be found under $500. |
Originally Posted by cat0020
(Post 21954618)
If you're a lighter rider as myself, the "impact" of those improvements don't quite justify the cost increase, when compared to a used ti frame that can be found under $500.
Speaking of clarification, Litespeed still custom shapes 6/4 tubing for the T1SL bikes, and I’d see we’re seeing more Ti shaping going on now than ever before, I think. The Lynskey Helix frames are perfect examples of that, hosting not only the twisted 3/2.5 tubes, but some models diamond shaped 6/4 top tubes, forged chainstay segments, and ovalized tube ends. We’ve seen, upthread, pics of other makers at it, too, like the extreme shaping from T-Lab and the cool, one-piece, cast BB/chainstay yoke from J. Guillem. |
Litespeed no long fabricate frames like Ultimate & Blade with full 6/4 tubing, rear wheel cut-out, tapered tubing from end to end.
For general population, non-sanctioned competitive cycling, recreational cycling, the benefits of ride character difference between a current ti frame vs used ti frame at fraction of the cost is something that should be considered. Personally, I feel that ti frames (or cycling in general) are about value, since they are meant to last for a lifetime of riding, the least you spend to achieve your cycling goals, the better value you get in return. If you can satisfy your cycling needs with a $500 used titanium frame that lasts you a lifetime, do you really need a $4k brand new ti frame with one-piece, cast B/B chainstays? |
Originally Posted by cat0020
(Post 21954827)
Litespeed no long fabricate frames like Ultimate & Blade with full 6/4 tubing, rear wheel cut-out, tapered tubing from end to end.
For general population, non-sanctioned competitive cycling, recreational cycling, the benefits of ride character difference between a current ti frame vs used ti frame at fraction of the cost is something that should be considered. Personally, I feel that ti frames (or cycling in general) are about value, since they are meant to last for a lifetime of riding, the least you spend to achieve your cycling goals, the better value you get in return. If you can satisfy your cycling needs with a $500 used titanium frame that lasts you a lifetime, do you really need a $4k brand new ti frame with one-piece, cast B/B chainstays? I don’t concern myself with other people’s needs or means, so most of the rest of your comments are neither here nor there for me, but certainly if someone wants to run wide tires and disc brakes on a Ti bike for gravel riding, yeah, they’ll “really need” to spend more than $500 for a 20 year old Ti frame and yeah, it might cost them $4k. I guess an equally silly question might be to ask whether they really need a Ti frame at all when there are plenty of steel frames costing a lot less which will also last for a lifetime of riding. |
I specified the Ultimate & Blade frames with rear wheel cut-out, no other frame in the current market offer the same feature on ti frames, due to the difficulty, tooling & man-hour required to fabricate such seat tube.
Carbon fiber frame may be easier to fabricate, but they certainly do not last a life time as ti. Steel frame rust, they need paint to protect the frame & they do not cost a lot less, do not last a lifetime for most people living with rainy weather. My Lynskey disc frame was purchased brand new under $500 from eBay back in 2018, posted many pages back in this thread, likely last longer than I can pedal. https://i.imgur.com/mrpZs28.jpg |
Trolls are everywhere.
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Originally Posted by chaadster
(Post 21955186)
Trolls are everywhere.
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Do not feed the trolls!
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The usual cost discussion devolves into some form of this on these forums.
„And then she went to the porridge of the Little, Small, Wee Bear, and tasted that; and that was neither too hot nor too cold, but just right.” |
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