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rjones28 07-21-25 11:24 AM

All-City Cosmic Stallion Ti

Custom build. Featuring Shimano GRX, Industry Nine wheels, Easton SL90 cranks, and FSA K-Force touch points.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6784fc38d3.jpg

georges1 07-23-25 11:35 AM


Originally Posted by rjones28 (Post 23568075)
All-City Cosmic Stallion Ti

Custom build. Featuring Shimano GRX, Industry Nine wheels, Easton SL90 cranks, and FSA K-Force touch points.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6784fc38d3.jpg

very nice bike :thumb:

SJX426 07-27-25 05:10 AM

@easyupbug - Did you strip the decals to make it happen? Does your example have the same original finish as I showed on mine?
By 3M pads, do you mean Scotch Brite pads? If so, which one(s)? There are a couple of different "grits."

easyupbug 07-27-25 09:11 PM


Originally Posted by SJX426 (Post 23571824)
@easyupbug - Did you strip the decals to make it happen? Does your example have the same original finish as I showed on mine?
By 3M pads, do you mean Scotch Brite pads? If so, which one(s)? There are a couple of different "grits."

Yes Scoth Brites work well. I have three Litespeeds and just sold a Serrota due to my advancing age and shrinking, all polished as I am long retired and have the time. Two of them got new decals due to damage and the others took extra work around decals rather than the usual shoe shinning stroking around the decals but again if you have the time. There is a lot to this to not be wasting your time and $. This is a good site to start off with; https://litespeed.com/blogs/litespee...ossy%20coating.
I got my frames (all second hand to me) I had have several grades of Scotch Brite Pad to get where I want, some had deep marks. I use the typical strip cut from the pad so only a couple inches wide to do this sort of thing on the tubing. Once you get there it is an easy to maintain. Depending on where your frame is you will likely need #7447 for the deeper scratches and then #7748 for polishing and higher to get higher brighter polishes.

easyupbug 07-27-25 09:17 PM

For some reason the Litespeed web site (https://litespeed.com/blogs/litespee...jpqDnF0mqyu16R) is not posting? But this is the one you want. But go to the Litespeed site and you will find it looking for

Caring for Your Titanium Bike: Maintenance Tips for Longevity


jsigone 07-28-25 11:23 AM

Pair with couple of wheelset
  • Zipp 303 Xplr and 40C schwalbe g-one rs, SLX 11/40 cassette
  • Bontrager Aeolus 37V and 32C Spesh Roubaix, Ultegra 11/28 cassette

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d54d10d4_b.jpg

SJX426 07-30-25 03:22 AM

@easyupbug - Thanks! Ordered a variety pack. Will give it a try before placing decals. I still have some on the bike including the head badge. The replacements SSI sent are smaller :(. Then there is the protective cover on the chain stay and the Dave Lewinsky signature on the other side along with the "made in UAS". I may start with the seat stays or seat tube for contrast. I can imagine the welds are bit challenging.

genejockey 07-30-25 04:29 PM


Originally Posted by SJX426 (Post 23574016)
@easyupbug - Thanks! Ordered a variety pack. Will give it a try before placing decals. I still have some on the bike including the head badge. The replacements SSI sent are smaller :(. Then there is the protective cover on the chain stay and the Dave Lewinsky signature on the other side along with the "made in UAS". I may start with the seat stays or seat tube for contrast. I can imagine the welds are bit challenging.

When I got my 1995 Ultimate, the decals were in really bad shape. I stripped the bike down to a bare frame, used acetone to take the remnants of the decals off, then used red Scotchbrite strips to restore the brushed finish. Then I wiped the whole thing down again with acetone before applying most of the decals from a replacement set from Litespeed. Finally, I used a little WD40 on a cloth to bring out that nice gray luster.

easyupbug 07-31-25 06:55 AM


Originally Posted by SJX426 (Post 23574016)
@easyupbug - ... I can imagine the welds are bit challenging.

You got me there, around decals takes a lot of time compared to the open tubes but is worth it to me but yes bottom bracket shell welds are a pain and not worth all the trouble to me. I do work on the very visible areas, head tube welds,etc.


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