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help me build and under 15lb Titaniuum road bike

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

help me build and under 15lb Titaniuum road bike

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Old 04-08-06, 10:48 AM
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I have two questions:

1. how heavy are you?
2. where are you riding?

From personal experience you can be a hefty boy and break all those nice new light parts or your a light guy who rides in a place like Houston. Keep in mind that if a bike fails at speed you will get hurt, bad.
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Old 04-08-06, 01:09 PM
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I like the bike w/ no water bottle cages - that's perfect for the long rides, about 4 miles max, to the local starbucks to hang out for an hour or so and to rest up for the big 20 minute effort back home (or to the car)
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Old 04-08-06, 01:52 PM
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Patriot; Nice looking, unique ride.

17 lbs. +/- is very do able, especially if you are on the + side of things. My 57 cm Lemond Ti, ready for the road is about the same as FMW's Litespeed, just a shade under 17.5 with the everyday wheels.

With that said, I am seriously considering going the oposite way, adding a bit more weight: A Brooks saddle, probably a Team Pro.

Enjoy the build process. Bob
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Old 04-08-06, 02:18 PM
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Patriot, that Fast Attack Ti rig may be the coolest bicycle on the planet. Semper Fi or whatever you say to Navy guys. Anchors Aweigh. Something like that.
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Old 04-08-06, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by rav
OK, i guess realistically 17lbs now, what would you recommend
You should be able to do High 16 low 17 fairly easy. I just built up a 58cm GT Edge Ti with Easton SL90 fork full 6600 Ultegra (Hollowtech II cranks), with all Ritchey WCS aluminum post, stem, bars. Ritchey Protocal wheel set and Ritchey V4 Pro pedals and the digital scale said 16.6 before I put cages and computer on it. Pieced this together for ~1400 and I am loving it.
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Old 04-08-06, 04:30 PM
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I quit reading others responses...
Money considered...

Fork- Whatever you can find in an 1 inch
Stem- ITM Millenium ($45 right now)
Handlebar- Ritchey WCS alloy
Seatpost- USE Alien Titanium
Saddle- Whatever you need but shoot for under 175 grams
Crank- Truvative Roleur alloy or PZ carbon
BB- American Classic Isis
Brakes- Blackwell
Shifter, Derailleur, Chain and Cassette- Ultegra
Wheels- Depends on your size but find a custom builder who can get you a set around 1400 grams
Tires- Michelin Pro Race
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Old 04-08-06, 04:38 PM
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Let me recommend avoiding FSA for most parts. They rarely are close to their claimed weights. Ritchey is great at not being above their weights. Use the weightweenies listings for comparison. I really think you should be able to get under 16 pounds considering you have $2500 left to spend, even if you got a few real high bling parts like Zero Gravity ss, and I change my crank vote to Dura Ace. Find an Easton Fork.
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Old 04-08-06, 04:40 PM
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weight weenie and all

Let me get this straight, my bike will be lighter if I am lighter. Last year I weighed 152 with a 20 pound bike. This year I weigh 135 with the same 20 pound bike. How does that work? Or was it cheaper for me to eat right, lose weight off my body, than to lose from the bike?

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Old 04-08-06, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by NFields
Let me get this straight, my bike will be lighter if I am lighter. Last year I weighed 152 with a 20 pound bike. This year I weigh 135 with the same 20 pound bike. How does that work? Or was it cheaper for me to eat right, lose weight off my body, than to lose from the bike?

NFields

Whether you weigh 150 or 135 a 16lb. bike will feel better on hills than a 19lb. bike. In fact the lighter YOU are the more you may notice the difference.
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Old 04-08-06, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by GuitarWizard
So what's the upside of having brakes that don't work?

Don't get me wrong. The Zero G's are totally hot looking. The braking is adequate, but there just really is no comparison in braking performance versus dual pivot Shimano or Campy brakes. The Zero Gs are for weight weenies. You get lighter weight at a cost of poorer braking.

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Old 04-08-06, 06:52 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by bellweatherman
Don't get me wrong. The Zero G's are totally hot looking. The braking is adequate, but there just really is no comparison in braking performance versus dual pivot Shimano or Campy brakes. The Zero Gs are for weight weenies. You get lighter weight at a cost of poorer braking.
For me they were inadequate.
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Old 04-08-06, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by fmw
For me they were inadequate.

Oops. Sorry, I meant to say that the Shimano's are dual pivot. I don't think that Campy's are dual pivot. Can't remember, but I'm pretty sure that the Campy Records are not dual pivot. Yeah, the Zero G's obviously don't have the braking power of Shimano dual-pivots, but you get light weight + looks
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Old 04-08-06, 08:06 PM
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some perspective here. I have a meriln extralight, at least 1/2 poud lighter than your frame, DA 10 speed except for a FSA K force carbon crank, Zipp 303 wheels, and speed play pedals. I have to put an 11-21 rear cassette on it to crack 17 pounds. 15 pounds is not really very realistic witht the frame your starting with, unless you want to spend way more on componets than the frame is worth.
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Old 04-08-06, 09:24 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by turbominnow
I have two questions:

1. how heavy are you?
2. where are you riding?

From personal experience you can be a hefty boy and break all those nice new light parts or your a light guy who rides in a place like Houston. Keep in mind that if a bike fails at speed you will get hurt, bad.
Thanks a lot for all the replies, i weigh 190 pounds trying to get to 170 and am moving to boston at the end of this month.

rav
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Old 04-09-06, 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by GuitarWizard
So what's the upside of having brakes that don't work?
this question really belongs in the cyclocross forum
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Old 04-09-06, 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by bellweatherman
Oops. Sorry, I meant to say that the Shimano's are dual pivot. I don't think that Campy's are dual pivot. Can't remember, but I'm pretty sure that the Campy Records are not dual pivot. Yeah, the Zero G's obviously don't have the braking power of Shimano dual-pivots, but you get light weight + looks
High end Campy groups use dual pivot in the front and single in the rear to save weight. The lower end groups are all dual pivot. The Record, Chorus and Dura Ace brakes are so much better than the Zero G it isn't even a horse race. I dumped my Zero G's on Ebay. There were a swarm of people anxious to bid on them. I got all but $25 back from what I had paid for them. Very popular despite their poor performance. The Record brakes are Titanium just like Zero G and not that much heavier.
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Old 04-09-06, 04:23 AM
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My Cannondale weighs 16.5 lbs and is essentially the most durable bicycle I've owned. I'm not concerned about it breaking. I do live in a rural area, but on fast group rides I've hit potholes hard @ 35mph without so much as making the front wheel go out of true. And yes, I know crashing your bike @ speed is bad. I wound up in a hospital ER last June (cold cocked) and hit black ice in January that resulted in a grapefruit sized contusion on my hip and a sore shoulder that still bothers me 3 months later.

And I still ride daily. I'm 5'11" 170lbs. Hopefully I'll manage to get that weight down to under 165lbs when the warmer weather hits and I can squeeze some of this water out of my system. My body weight has hit a plateau reminiscent of the Khazak Steppes. I've decided to stop weighing myself. It's depressing to ride 300 miles a week, eat like a rabbit and see your weight not budge. That's called Middle Age. I'd have my thyroid tested, but what's the point? I know my doctor will simply say 'you're getting older'. Tell me something I don't know. Went through this last year too. And just kept on keeping on. The weight will drop sooner or later. Hopefully before I do.
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Old 04-09-06, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by GuitarWizard
So what's the upside of having brakes that don't work?


You either get really good at cornering technique or...............you don't......
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Old 04-10-06, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
some perspective here. I have a meriln extralight, at least 1/2 poud lighter than your frame, DA 10 speed except for a FSA K force carbon crank, Zipp 303 wheels, and speed play pedals. I have to put an 11-21 rear cassette on it to crack 17 pounds. 15 pounds is not really very realistic witht the frame your starting with, unless you want to spend way more on componets than the frame is worth.

uhhhh With a 2.5 lbs frame? 17 sounds a bit off. Scotts carbon and the Ghashillo are 2lbs and should be in the 15-16 lbs ange for those parts. Something doesnt sound right...
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Old 04-08-09, 10:44 PM
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Mongoose Titanium Frame

I read your entry about buying a Mongoose titanium road frame on eBay.

I am upgrading a new 1999 Mongoose RX10.7 from Ultegra to Dura-Ace components. I had it in my shop that I closed in 1992, and it has been hanging in my basement ever since. I need to determine it's value, so would you mind telling me what you paid for your's? I'll be selling the Ultegra components when I get it rebuilt, so I feel that the cost of your frame plus what I get for the Ultegra components would be a fair way of determining it's current value.

Wayne
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Old 04-08-09, 10:49 PM
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I don't think he's going to answer you... He hasn't been on BF in over a year.
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Old 04-08-09, 11:08 PM
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cant believe i didn t chelkc the alate lont his thread

Last edited by grimace308; 04-08-09 at 11:35 PM.
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Old 04-13-09, 09:12 AM
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Thanks.

Wayne
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Old 04-13-09, 03:35 PM
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Just a gentle reminder....two water bottles will weigh over 3 lbs...so don't drink water on your rides.

Another thought...just build the bike that suits your needs. At some point, weight savings offer no additional benefit.

You might look at the challenge in another way. Buy a 15 pound bike and try to make it as comfortable as your new titanium rig.
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