Brillig

Usually you can tell if the numbness is from too much weight on your hands. You should be able to remove your hands completely from the handlebars while pedaling and not have a hard time keeping your body in the same position. Otherwise you have too much weight on your hands.

Another possibility is that your arms are relaxed but you are squeezing with your hands?

recursive

The more power you are putting out, the less weight on your hands, and more on your feet.

Miller2

Slightly better but not enough to make it any more comfortable.

Miller2

I can do that. It isnt easy but I can. Also, as I mentioned earlier, I never really grip the bars in a full hand grip. I mostly rest my hands on the bars or hoods. When climbing seated I only drap my hands across the bars.

oneponychick

Miller2,

When you got this fitting, had you been riding a road bike for very long? If not, you may have thought you would be comfortable in the position you chose on the fit cycle, but now that you've been in it for 600 miles, maybe it's not ok. I rode an entire season on a new bike only to discover that I really didn't like the position I was in. I had sore neck, sore shoulders, numb hands all the time. Then I went for a fitting, and had a good idea of where I needed to be to stay comfortable. And yes I ended up with a new bike, and it's made a world of difference.

Maybe you need to go back to the LBS, tell them what's going on, and ask if they would fit you again, maybe for a significant discount. Work with them to set the fit cycle up to where your soreness seems minimized, if not eliminated. Then see if they can get your bike to those measurements. If not, they will recommend a frame that can get you there.

Miller2

Yea they will refit at no charge. I already paid them $150 so they better!!

C-R700

I posted a similiar post a few weeks back. I also have been struggling with some neck pain similiar to yours. I have worked really hard at staying relaxed on the bike. What I realized is that I was tensing my neck at other times of the day. The bike was not necessarly the problem. I Was getting on the bike with a stiff neck to start with, after an hour it would get especially sore. My solution is to constantly watch my posture off the bike, staying relaxed. On the bike I try to sit up at least every 15 minutes and stretch the neck. I still have some problems but it is getting better.

jazzy_cyclist

I've had somewhat similar problems off and on - I don't get numb, but I wonder about too much weight on my hands. As I ride more (and doing yoga), I'm stretching out more and getting more comfortable. One thing that you might observe is where you put your hands on the bars. I used to put the heel of my hand in the "corner" of the bars which is bad because that forces the pressure right on the spot where the nerves run. When I later got a shorter stem, I was more comfortable putting my hands fully on the hoods and that helped a lot.

I think what you're hinting at is whether your frame is the issue. On the one hand, you suggest that you don't have too much weight on the bars, but on the other, a 6 cm stem is exceptionally short, and suggests that you need to compensate for a shorter reach. (I'm guessing that you don't have carpal tunnel problems or you would have mentioned that). The answer is that it's hard to tell from simple measurements. I'm 5'9" and I ride a 52. My wife is 5'5" and rides a 54. One of the issues is that frame sizes are measured based on the seat tube, but the critical measurement is really the top tube length (assuming that you have standover room) since that determines how far your "reach" is.

One of the services that a Serotta fitter may offer is to do a sizing on their "ultimately adjustable" sizecycle. Based on that, they have something called an "X-Y tool" that takes the three critical points in space (bottom bracket, bars, and saddle) that they can then use to compare to stock bikes. I don't know if that was included in your package or not, but I'd definitely ask.

Failing that, I'd check out some new bikes in smaller sizes to see what they feel like.

You could also post some pix here of you on the bike, but that rarely seems to end with a consensus.

Also, as stated previously, road biking is a very different animal from running, and your body will compensate over time.

bigskymacadam

okay. some might not agree with this but here goes.

i used to get numb left hand over 50 miles. i think from pinched nerve in my back or shoulder. since then, i've done two things.

1. i've gone to the gym to work on my core and legs (situps, planks, crunches, leg press, leg extensions, squats, back extensions, the works.)

2. i don't know if these really work, but i also added the buzzkills a few weeks ago.

i did a century last saturday and i feel great. no numb. no pain. my advice: you in particular might need to have a stronger core. get in the gym twice a week. i'd give it four to six weeks to realize a difference. else, try the buzzkills to see if they help you.

hope this helps ....

hiracer

Your bars that are too wide. Get seated on bike in front of mirror to see if your arms are splayed out from shoulders to reach wide bars. Your arms should be pretty close to parallel, not spreading out.

Miller2

I work oout 3 times per week...have been for many yrs. Core strength is not the issue.

Miller2

I work out 3 times per week...have been for many yrs. Core strength is not the issue.

alanbikehouston

Numb hands? Pain near the neck? Your bars are too low.

Too low for YOU. Not too low for the 90% of our members who claim that they race their bikes and are super comfy when riding in a time trial position (even when that "time trial" consists of an accountant, a bank clerk, and a nurse, riding to Starbucks).

If you look at the owner's manual that came with a Schwinn Paramount from about 1960 to 1980, Schwinn correctly suggested that you get saddle height dialed in first. Next, Schwinn suggested setting up the bars so that the highest part of the bars is level with the top of the saddle, or an inch or so lower.

Today, the "pretend race boys" with their endless desire to LOOK like a Pro cyclist, attempt to copy Lance's time trial position by riding with their bars three, four, or even five inches lower than the top of the saddle. Looks super racy. But, for most guys, such a position is a pain in the neck. Pro cyclists get a neck and back rub after a long ride. Do you?

Every year, thousands of people buy expensive road bikes that end up covered with cobwebs in the garage. Improper set-up is the reason. Put your bars up so the top of the bars is level with the top of the saddle. You will be able to ride longer, ride far further, and the net result will be a stronger, more fit cyclist.

A "faster" cyclist? Well, unless someone is paying you to race, being comfortable is far more important than being faster.

bigskymacadam

ooops. sorry. i should have read the entire thread. what about hand position? i've learned to alter position frequently meaning

1. hands on hoods
2. hands in drops
3. forearms close to the elbow on the tops (sort of a tt position)
4. wrists on the bars right before the hoods, with fingers on the hoods (quasi tt position)
5. standing at length
7. hands on tops, back and elbows bent
8. hands on tops back straighter, elbows straight (but not locked

and start changing positions early into the ride. before you feel anything. do this more times than you reach for a drink of water. it'll spread out the load over time. i've followed your fit questions from the beginning, but don't remember this one.

Miller2

Interesting...I do notice that I sometimes have to pull my elbows in a bit. I'll check on that.

Miller2

I'll check that as well.

Miller2

Haha..if I changed hand positions any more frequently I'd be riding no hands!!

kleng

Hi

Maybe you could check your fit and position using the

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/z...ALCULATOR_INTRO

Its reasonable comprehensive and is useful as a guide. Just take the measurements correctly and the site calculates the frame measurement for you based on different riding position styles. It also has a good set of definitions. This would be a good check to confirm your serotta fit.

oneponychick

A serotta fitting includes all that is in that article, and also a serotta fit technician measures your flexibility, and considers any physical limitations due to injuries, etc. I don't think an online calculator can do that for you.

Miller2

Ok....I checked last night and found my saddle to bar drop was 3". If I reduce that to 1", mihgt that help the issue?

alanbikehouston

Reducing the drop to one inch will make you taller, smarter, AND better looking. Or, maybe not.

What a one inch drop will do is reduce stress on your hands and wrist. It will give you a higher head position, and eliminate neck and back pain. It will rotate your pelvis more upright, putting more of your weight on your "sit bones", and less on the soft bits, thereby eliminating numb crotch syndrome.

Plus, you will be taller, smarter, and better looking.

bigskymacadam

i would think so. when you were at the fitter, what style of riding did you tell him you were doing? club rider? touring? century? racer? a three inch drop seems aggressive.

Miller2

I'm pretty sure I told him a rec/fitness rider. I recall someone saying 4" is pretty agressive so when I measured 3" I was a tad surprised.

rufvelo

...to alanbikehouston, which you may or may not want!

EURO

HOLY CRAP!

Here's what gives the majority of people numb hands and back problems. It's so simple most people ignore it.

Modern road bikes are designed for racing. Racing cyclists are generally fit, young, and very flexible. They are so fit and flexible that the majority of their bodyweight is supported not by the saddle or the hands, but by the feet - because they are continually putting power through the pedals.

Because of this, racing cyclists can afford to have a tiny light seat with no padding, and very low bars to stay aero.

Most people who get into road cycling are not racing cyclists. The critical area in which they differ is flexibility, specifically hamstrings. If your hamstrings are not flexible, your upper body cannot support its own weight, and you have to put that weight through your hands. The result? Numb hands.

I actually think a lot of people are buying the wrong type of bike. A flat-bar machine with skinny tires would suit most recreational and fitness riders much better than a bike ridden by a pro tour team. I blame Lance.

Original poster - the only way you are going to sort this out is to do two things. First, increase your bar height, so the upper body weight you cannot support with your hands is transmitted through your butt. Secondly - starting stretching your hamstrings a minute each straight after exercise, daily. You'll be much better suited to riding a 'proper' road racing bike after about 6 months of that.