Hummeth

Ok, I'm not a hard core roadie and i use my bike for commuting as well as for riding the trails. Right now I'm torn between buying a cable lock and a U-Lock. The self coiling cable is harder to lock up due to its springyness but it will let me lock my bike to a variety of things like trees and the such. On the other hand, the easy to apply U-lock (probably with another smaller cable to lock up my front wheel) may limit where I can lock my bike. What do you guys prefer? Any input helps. Thanks

alanbikehouston

Cable locks are not actually a lock. They can be opened in five seconds by an experienced crook. So, they are really a sign that says "Free bike right here".

If you will be leaving your bike out of your sight for more than five or ten minutes, you need a serious u-lock, such as the better models from Kryptonite and OnGuard. Save the cable lock for securing the front wheel.

MRGolfo

I have used the cable(kryptonite kryptoflex) with a master lock when I used it around campus a while ago. It's so much lighter then the U-locks. I would sometimes put the cable through the belt loops while I was getting around.

jyossarian

I use a Krypto Fugheddaboutit and a mini-U. The mini locks the rear wheel to the frame and the chain locks the frame and front wheel to the bike rack. A third bike chain secures the saddle rails to the rear triangle. You might also want to rubber cement into your stem and pedal bolts and seat post collar.

Hitchy

.....Rottweiller!...100% impervious to Boltcutters!

bmclaughlin807

Yes, I always carry a 10 lb U-lock and a 15 lb chain with a seperate 5 lb padlock to lock my bike up in front of 7-Eleven. You can never be too safe! :-p

Actually, I just use a Kryptonite cable lock, but then my bike's never out of my sight for more than 5 minutes, and it's not an expensive bike.

It all comes down to how much security you need, and how much lock you're willing to carry. (or if you're always locking in the same place, leave the lock on the bike rack and lock up when you get there, carrying a lighter lock for any pit stops.)

bmclaughlin807

Hehe... I used to tie my rottie up outside of the convenience store when I went in.... there would be about 5 people standing there staring at him (from about 10 feet out of reach) when I came out.... like they actually believed that little tiny leash would actually stop him if he WANTED to go after somebody.

*laughs*

at only 10 months old, he was 120 lbs, and his shoulders came up past my hips. He once dragged a 12" diameter, six foot long log several hundred feet down the beach just because I pointed at the end of it and told him to 'Get it'.

He was the greatest dog ever! (And extremely friendly, though most people wouldn't get close enough to find out. Heh)

I miss that dog! *sniffles*

mister

Trunk monkey.

mrkott3r

just a decent cable lock. Not too much theft around these parts. *knocks on wood*
But if I was in New York however...

alanbikehouston

It is a myth that carrying a "pretend" lock, such as a cable lock, saves a good deal of weight and expense, compared with a real lock. Any cable lock that actually even looks like a serious lock will cost at least $20 and weigh over a pound. The OnGuard Bulldog TC weighs under two pounds and costs $25 to $35.

Any cable lock, of any weight, and any price, can be opened in just five seconds or so by a properly equipped crook. The OnGuard Bulldog TC, if the Sheldon Brown method is used, can not be opened by prying attacks, leverage attacks, picking attacks, or battering attacks. Cutting it with manual cutting tools would take over an hour. Obviously, power cutting tools and cutting torches will open any lock, but no theft using power tools has ever been documented in my area.

But, I appreciate cable locks. Crooks will never bother learning how to open a high quality u-lock as long as there are people securing bikes with only a cable lock. So, cable lock owners are doing u-lock owners a big favor.

By the way, there is NO need for anyone to lug around a ten pound chain lock. The tests at "Cycling Plus" and at Soldsecure prove that the best four pound u-locks perform as well under "real world" attacks as a ten pound chain. The only advantage of a chain is the ability to lock to telephone poles, light poles, and other huge objects.

www.soldsecure.com/Leisure.htm

bccycleguy

By cable do you mean those combination cable locks? If so, they are probably better than nothing, but not much. I carry a small custom-made cable (stainless-steel 28" by 3/16") with an Abus small, but high-quality (#30/85 Abus - hard to pick) lock Together they weigh about 120 g. It is only for emergencies (i.e. I'm going to pi$$ my pants if I can't use the toilet in the local park) and only in high-visibility, low-crime areas and then only for a couple of minutes AND I TAKE THE FRONT WHEEL WITH ME.

Otherwise get a cheap commuter and carry a heavy chain and lock. You have to pick your battles in life, leaving an expensive road bike locked up somewhere is not a battle you are going to win.

Hell, I even lock my road bike up with something better than a combo-cable when it's inside my house.

SpotTheCat

I'm in a high-theft area, and I use a new mini u-lock + combo cable when I leave my bike out. The most common way around here to get a u-lock open is a car jack. I have seen it happen. The smaller ones don't have room for a car jack.
I lock the front wheel and frame with the U-lock, and the rear wheel and fram with the cable. My bike is 35 years old, too, not that it matters around here.

DrJeepney

I bought a Masterlock U-Lock at a local Target store. I think it cost me, I don't remember, but proabably around $12-15 plus tax. It was one of those low end U-lock's, but it doesn't matter. I also bought a Kryptonite lock for $24 as a secondary lock.



I've only had to use the two locks i bought once, thats w hen i brought my bike to college. but so far, i have not used my locks that much. maybe when i go to san francisco for the marathon, i'll bring my bike and i'll use the locks i bought to good use. hopefully no one steals my bike.

bccycleguy

Another observation about cable locks is that at work someone locked some gear in the back of a pick-up with a Master python cable lock. The guy forgot to leave the key with someone so we had to cut the cable to unload the truck. It took maybe 20 seconds with a hacksaw! This 10mm cable is identical to the cable used by most cable locks and Master advertises the Python for use with bikes.

I think the issue here is that the plastic coating on the cable holds all the strands together and makes the cable much easier to cut. A logic I heard years ago about cables being hard to cut was that when the cable strands fray they jam-up a hacksaw and make it really hard to cut, Well adding a heavy coat of plastic has mitigated the value of a cable lock. I bet the cable also doesn't flatten out as much when being cut with bolt cutters too and so the plastic coated cables are of little use. That's probably why Specialized used to cover their cables with a plastic mesh.

I don't even trust my Python to lock up the lawn mower now (hmmm, maybe that might be a good way to get rid of the lawn mower, then I maybe could get rid of the grass.....)