Compact doubles, custom cassettes, etc.
07-22-06, 09:04 PM
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Compact doubles, custom cassettes, etc.
I know this has been discussed a bit, but I'm reaching a quandry that seems to differ from the opinions expressed in a lot of threads here regarding compact doubles (that is, it seems that a lot of people here like who seem to really like them).
The story: I just got a new road bike -- a Kestrel Talon. I'm very happy with the upgrade so far. My riding consists of (in order of miles): 8-15 mile each-way commutes (typical climb: 600-1100 ft), long weekend rides (30-60+ miles) (usually one 'good' climb depending on the route... 1500-2000' or so, and a couple of times triathlons (sprint and olympic.. maybe half iron man next year)... most of the triathlon courses are rolling coastal hills.
During the purchase process I tested a compact doubles and standard triple (yech!). After reading some reviews online (including several here) and thinking about some of the grades around here that are no fun on the standard double (I'm talking 2100 feet in 4 miles type stuff), I went for the compact double (34/50) and 12/27 (10-speed) cassette... actually the cassette is a loaner from the bike shop until I make up my mind (read on).
I have had a 53/39 setup on my cyclocros-come-roadbike for several years and got around the difficulty on the steep stuff by going with a 12-27 cassette...thus after several thousand miles on that bike I am very used to the gearing.. it has been difficult but I've always managed fine. The only true disadvantage are early morning commutes on cold days: I live in an area where I can't warm up on the flats first, and wound up getting into some strange/scary hip pain after grinding out some steep hills without being warmed up on my standard double (39/27).
The problem:
Now that I've put 100 miles on the new bike and a couple of good climbs it I'm not sure how much I like the compact double. Its obviously been very nice for climbing... I really do like having the ability to sit down if I want on a decent grade and not have to stand up and grind the entire hill. However, the shifting pattern is a bit more clunky and there is more of a 'no mans land' feeling between the small and large ring.... on the flats I easily spin out of the small ring and can only shift down so low before chain-rub is an issue... then, up to the big ring: well, that is okay as long as I'm going > 20mph. Now in the big ring, I can't drop down to a lower gear (< 20mph at my typical cadence) without chain rub issues. For around-town riding this is kind of annoying because it means that for each time I stop, I either have to shift a few times down to the small ring, or deal with chain rub when accelerating if I start out in my big ring.
On the bike I'm coming from I can sustain 20mph comfortably in 39/15 -- that was the gear I'd used the most... on the compact double I get that in 50/19 -- the 4th sprocket down from the largest in my 10-speed cassette... so the chain line is not the most beautiful thing in the world either.
Solutions:
1. Get stronger/faster. Duh! If I can learn and adapt to cruise at 22/23mph sustained, I'll have enough room to drop down a couple gears in the big ring.... I *can* do this, just not for very long.. maybe some interval training is in order.
2. I may just take the compact and throw it on my cyclocross bike (formerly setup to do road riding before this bike, and then ebay a new ultegra 39/53 for the new bike.
3. Get a custom cassette built. I decided to trade the 12/23 'stock' cassette that came with the bike to the LBS for a discount on a different size or custom.. the custom built appeals to me since, well, typically only a few gears are used often, each sproket is just a few ($4) bucks, and thus when its time to replace the chain I don't need to toss the whole casette... I am *not* going to be wearing out my 12 and 13-tooth sprockets as fast as the 15, for example. Going with an 11-tooth sprocket on a custom job gives, by the way, a taller gear than 53/12.... useful for decents as I've spun out of 50/12 pretty easily on mild grades.
4. Triple. Sorry, no.
Anyone been in this quadry? Opinions on which way to go? I think, honestly, if I took my riding/speed up to the next notch I'd be fine... that way I'd be riding in the big ring, middle of the cassette, and could shift up a couple of times before chain rub was an issue. I am, in my opinion, a fit cyclist and did pretty well (20.7mph) average in the last 40k triathlon I did.... on a poorly-fitted bike with no aerobars and crappy wheels... but lets face it , I am not winning any races or TTs! Getting faster is not easy... but I want to.
The story: I just got a new road bike -- a Kestrel Talon. I'm very happy with the upgrade so far. My riding consists of (in order of miles): 8-15 mile each-way commutes (typical climb: 600-1100 ft), long weekend rides (30-60+ miles) (usually one 'good' climb depending on the route... 1500-2000' or so, and a couple of times triathlons (sprint and olympic.. maybe half iron man next year)... most of the triathlon courses are rolling coastal hills.
During the purchase process I tested a compact doubles and standard triple (yech!). After reading some reviews online (including several here) and thinking about some of the grades around here that are no fun on the standard double (I'm talking 2100 feet in 4 miles type stuff), I went for the compact double (34/50) and 12/27 (10-speed) cassette... actually the cassette is a loaner from the bike shop until I make up my mind (read on).
I have had a 53/39 setup on my cyclocros-come-roadbike for several years and got around the difficulty on the steep stuff by going with a 12-27 cassette...thus after several thousand miles on that bike I am very used to the gearing.. it has been difficult but I've always managed fine. The only true disadvantage are early morning commutes on cold days: I live in an area where I can't warm up on the flats first, and wound up getting into some strange/scary hip pain after grinding out some steep hills without being warmed up on my standard double (39/27).
The problem:
Now that I've put 100 miles on the new bike and a couple of good climbs it I'm not sure how much I like the compact double. Its obviously been very nice for climbing... I really do like having the ability to sit down if I want on a decent grade and not have to stand up and grind the entire hill. However, the shifting pattern is a bit more clunky and there is more of a 'no mans land' feeling between the small and large ring.... on the flats I easily spin out of the small ring and can only shift down so low before chain-rub is an issue... then, up to the big ring: well, that is okay as long as I'm going > 20mph. Now in the big ring, I can't drop down to a lower gear (< 20mph at my typical cadence) without chain rub issues. For around-town riding this is kind of annoying because it means that for each time I stop, I either have to shift a few times down to the small ring, or deal with chain rub when accelerating if I start out in my big ring.
On the bike I'm coming from I can sustain 20mph comfortably in 39/15 -- that was the gear I'd used the most... on the compact double I get that in 50/19 -- the 4th sprocket down from the largest in my 10-speed cassette... so the chain line is not the most beautiful thing in the world either.
Solutions:
1. Get stronger/faster. Duh! If I can learn and adapt to cruise at 22/23mph sustained, I'll have enough room to drop down a couple gears in the big ring.... I *can* do this, just not for very long.. maybe some interval training is in order.
2. I may just take the compact and throw it on my cyclocross bike (formerly setup to do road riding before this bike, and then ebay a new ultegra 39/53 for the new bike.
3. Get a custom cassette built. I decided to trade the 12/23 'stock' cassette that came with the bike to the LBS for a discount on a different size or custom.. the custom built appeals to me since, well, typically only a few gears are used often, each sproket is just a few ($4) bucks, and thus when its time to replace the chain I don't need to toss the whole casette... I am *not* going to be wearing out my 12 and 13-tooth sprockets as fast as the 15, for example. Going with an 11-tooth sprocket on a custom job gives, by the way, a taller gear than 53/12.... useful for decents as I've spun out of 50/12 pretty easily on mild grades.
4. Triple. Sorry, no.
Anyone been in this quadry? Opinions on which way to go? I think, honestly, if I took my riding/speed up to the next notch I'd be fine... that way I'd be riding in the big ring, middle of the cassette, and could shift up a couple of times before chain rub was an issue. I am, in my opinion, a fit cyclist and did pretty well (20.7mph) average in the last 40k triathlon I did.... on a poorly-fitted bike with no aerobars and crappy wheels... but lets face it , I am not winning any races or TTs! Getting faster is not easy... but I want to.
Last edited by Citabria; 07-22-06 at 09:09 PM.
07-22-06, 09:10 PM
#2
semifreddo amartuerer
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I'll take (and have taken) what's behind door #3. Lots of folks do the same thing or very similar.
07-23-06, 09:47 AM
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Faster but still slow
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4. Triple. Sorry, no.
07-23-06, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by slowandsteady
Just curious, what do you have against the triple?
07-23-06, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Citabria
The shifting seemed a bit more clunky (sort of the same problem I have now), and I'd be hauling around an extra gear that would be very seldom used... quite honestly I just didn't need the ratio that low. The compact double at 34/27 is actually lower than I need.
It sounds like a triple with a 11-23 sounds perfect. I have a triple on my commuter and have a compact double on my group ride bike. I have a better chain line with the triple in the gear ratios that I use most.
Since the triple is not an option, I would either put a 36 on the front and/or a smaller cassette on the back.
