When do you replace your tires??
#26
I had less than 500 miles on Bontrager race lites. Because of knee problems the bike spent 5 years in the garage with underinflated tires. When I fixed a flat, I noticed they had cracks from not being stored properly. I replaced them with Gatorskins. The Gators ride like chicken :-)
#27
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 6,431
Likes: 44
From: Minneapolis, MN
The recommendation to put the best tire on the front is for 2 reasons - 1, you steer with the front tire so traction is the most important there, and 2 if you completely lose traction on your front tire (whether it's a tire blowup, not enough tread, not enough grip in the wet, etc) you're nearly certain to go down immediately. It's happened to me (wet road) - there's not time to react. But if you completely lose traction on your rear tire you (so I've been told) your bike doesn't just fall over, you have a couple of seconds to react which is usually enough to put your foot down or something.
The far greater risk of a serious injury if your front tire completely fails is why it's recommended to put the best, longest life tire on the front.
That being said, most people simply replace whatever tire wears out and don't bother switching tires. Rotating bike tires is something people just don't do.
The far greater risk of a serious injury if your front tire completely fails is why it's recommended to put the best, longest life tire on the front.
That being said, most people simply replace whatever tire wears out and don't bother switching tires. Rotating bike tires is something people just don't do.
#28
I use Sheldon Brown's 'put the good one in front' rule. When the back tire gets squared off, put the front tire on the back, and a new tire on the front. For me, front tires wear very, very slowly and I would end up leaving the front one on for years if I didn't move it to the back. I don't want to ride on a super old front tire, even if it looks unworn.
#29
Batüwü Griekgriek


Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,927
Likes: 7
Bikes: 1986 Trek 500 Tri Series, 2005 Cannondale R1000
I use Sheldon Brown's 'put the good one in front' rule. When the back tire gets squared off, put the front tire on the back, and a new tire on the front. For me, front tires wear very, very slowly and I would end up leaving the front one on for years if I didn't move it to the back. I don't want to ride on a super old front tire, even if it looks unworn.
#30
Custom User Title
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 11,239
Likes: 35
From: SE MN
Bikes: Fuji Roubaix Pro & Quintana Roo Kilo
#31
#32
Batüwü Griekgriek


Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,927
Likes: 7
Bikes: 1986 Trek 500 Tri Series, 2005 Cannondale R1000
#35
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 22,676
Likes: 2,642
From: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
#40
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,341
Likes: 326
From: Mountain View, CA USA and Golden, CO USA
Bikes: 97 Litespeed, 50-39-30x13-26 10 cogs, Campagnolo Ultrashift, retroreflective rims on SON28/PowerTap hubs
GP4000S with 1037 front miles + 5257 rear miles:

At that point I remove the front tire, move it to the rear if still good, and put a new tire on my front wheel because loosing traction on the front tire (perhaps because it deflates due to a blow out) is more likely to cause a crash than problems in back.
My current GP4000SII rear tire has 8578 front miles and 2862 rear miles. It still has lots of life left.
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 07-06-16 at 12:25 PM.
#41
just another gosling


Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 20,555
Likes: 2,667
From: Everett, WA
Bikes: CoMo Speedster 2003, Trek 5200, CAAD 9, Fred 2004
When a tire gets a cut that makes a bump when inflated or when I start to get more flats than I should. So far, I've never worn a tire to the cords. Must be nice to ride on such debris-free roads to be able to do that.
__________________
Results matter
Results matter
#42
The tough thing is when you put a hole in a tire that is nearly new.
Here was a recent thread about long-term boots.
www.bikeforums.net/commuting/1069052-do-i-need-new-tire.html
I've had troubles with Park boots causing flats, or eventually wearing through.
I'm currently riding a tire with a radial tire patch on the inside for support, and a plain rubber patch on the outside for protection. I haven't tried tire liner, but that would be worth considering too.
#44
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 880
Likes: 11
From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Bikes: Trek Emonda SL6, Trek Madone 4.5, Trek X-Caliber
3000 miles on my last set of Conti Grand Prix (not the GP 4000sII) and they still had life in them, never flatted or blewout or sidewall damage. I bought the GP 4000sII 25MM for a vacation to the mountains, 2nd day on the 2nd climb I blew out the rear from sidewall tear. I replaced tube, booted tire and made it up over the climb, skipped the 3rd climb, stopped at a bike shop to replace the tire and then continued to the 4th climb. That tire had something like 60 miles on it before it tore so it's not mileage, it's wear and road conditions etc. BTW this was first set of 25s and I love the ride. Next time I think I'll order the regular GP in a 25mm if I can't find it locally, I kind like it better than the 4000sII so far
#46
on your lawn
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 175
Likes: 19
From: Minneapolis, MN
Bikes: 1995 Trek 370, 1997 Trek 800 Sport, 2013 Specialized Crossroads Elite, 2016 Trek Emonda ALR5, 1991 Fuji Roubaix
#49
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
Man! I was ready to use that line. I guess I'll go with my backup for the OP. Replace your tire ONLY if lance wins the TDF this year under non-suspicious circumstances.






