How short is your stem?
#1
Cardiac Case
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Dropped... about 5 miles back...
Posts: 2,893
Bikes: Trek, Cannondale, Litespeed, Lynskey
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
2 Posts
How short is your stem?
I picked up my new bike a few weeks ago.
In the store it fit me fine from what I can tell - spun on the rollers for a few minutes.
However, after getting it home and riding it some more, I feel like I'm reaching forward more than I'd like to, even with the saddle pushed forward.
I have a 100mm stem on it at the moment, but am considering a 60mm or 70mm.
My standover height seems fine. I can stand over the frame, feet flat on the ground and still be able to comfortable raise the front wheel 3 inches.
Is such a short stem normal, or should I have gotten a smaller frame size?
Maybe I have short arms...
In the store it fit me fine from what I can tell - spun on the rollers for a few minutes.
However, after getting it home and riding it some more, I feel like I'm reaching forward more than I'd like to, even with the saddle pushed forward.
I have a 100mm stem on it at the moment, but am considering a 60mm or 70mm.
My standover height seems fine. I can stand over the frame, feet flat on the ground and still be able to comfortable raise the front wheel 3 inches.
Is such a short stem normal, or should I have gotten a smaller frame size?
Maybe I have short arms...
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 471
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
My new bike also has a 100. But for my riding style, I had to move the seat forward, and am now considering an 80 or 90 stem.
All the talk about "Proper Bike Fit" is really a myth! Everyone has a differant style and differant comfort zone. But the myth of the FIT is how LBS's get people to buy from them instead of online.
All the talk about "Proper Bike Fit" is really a myth! Everyone has a differant style and differant comfort zone. But the myth of the FIT is how LBS's get people to buy from them instead of online.
#3
Banned.
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,460
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by not2fast
My new bike also has a 100. But for my riding style, I had to move the seat forward, and am now considering an 80 or 90 stem.
All the talk about "Proper Bike Fit" is really a myth! Everyone has a differant style and differant comfort zone. But the myth of the FIT is how LBS's get people to buy from them instead of online.
All the talk about "Proper Bike Fit" is really a myth! Everyone has a differant style and differant comfort zone. But the myth of the FIT is how LBS's get people to buy from them instead of online.
Last edited by Serpico; 08-27-06 at 12:56 PM.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 471
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
No, frame is just fine. But I do triathlon riding on areo-bars, and like being far forward. The seat is moved forward, but I want to shorten the stem just a bit, to bring the pads more directly under my shoulders.
They took all kinds of measurements when I bought it, and then measured the bike, and set it all up. From their measurements, they even had the seat set to the height they thought it "Should" be set at.
I guess it was a good starting point. But again, a lot of the fit thing is a myth. You need to fit it your self while riding it. Carry some allen wrenches with you on your first couple rides.
They took all kinds of measurements when I bought it, and then measured the bike, and set it all up. From their measurements, they even had the seat set to the height they thought it "Should" be set at.
I guess it was a good starting point. But again, a lot of the fit thing is a myth. You need to fit it your self while riding it. Carry some allen wrenches with you on your first couple rides.
#5
Ride it like you stole it
not2fast, this is always a problem trying to convert a standard road frme geometry to a comfortable triathlon geometry. As I understand it you will always end up with a very short stem and a really forward seat position. I have noticed that many people will tell you to try one frame size smaller than normal to get a better tri type of fit where you cn use more or less "normal" stem lengths and have the bars just a bit lower to compensate for the elbow rests.
__________________
"Never use your face as a brake pad" - Jake Watson
The Reloutionaries @ Shapeways
"Never use your face as a brake pad" - Jake Watson
The Reloutionaries @ Shapeways
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 471
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
That sounds about right. I just about got it where I want it.
While most of my riding is tri-style, I didnt want to commit to an expensive tri-only bike. I like being able to reconfigure should the need arise.
While most of my riding is tri-style, I didnt want to commit to an expensive tri-only bike. I like being able to reconfigure should the need arise.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 767
Bikes: 2005 Windsor Kennet, 1982 Raleigh Super Course
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
My bike came with a 110 mm stem which is pretty standard on a 58cm bike. The bike basically fit as my the handle bars were ever so slightly ahead of the front hub but basically centered with my line of vision. But I have back concerns so I swapped it out for a 90 mm stem which I feel more comfortable. The handle bars are still centered over the hub except just slightly behind it.
#9
.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rocket City, No'ala
Posts: 12,764
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 5.2, 1985 Pinarello Treviso, 1990 Gardin Shred, 2006 Bianchi San Jose
Likes: 0
Liked 30 Times
in
15 Posts
Originally Posted by fa63
I use an 80 mm stem, and the bike handles just like it did when it had the 110 mm stem on there.
__________________
#12
100% USDA certified
^Hah..
Anyway, I have a 90mm threadless stem on my Bianchi Veloce right now. It's a 55 cm and I still feel a little stretched out, so I think I may go down to the 70 mm rather than try and find a smaller frame. I'm short on cash, short on time.
Anyway, I have a 90mm threadless stem on my Bianchi Veloce right now. It's a 55 cm and I still feel a little stretched out, so I think I may go down to the 70 mm rather than try and find a smaller frame. I'm short on cash, short on time.
#13
Emondafied
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Maryland
Posts: 4,939
Bikes: See sig
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
120 on mine. Up from 110. I had the saddle too far back, so when I got that where it was supposed to be, I needed more stem length.
__________________
my bike page - my journal
Current Stable: Trek Emonda SL - Trek Top Fuel 8 - Scattante XRL - Jamis Dakar Expert - Trek 9700 -AlpineStars Al Mega
my bike page - my journal
Current Stable: Trek Emonda SL - Trek Top Fuel 8 - Scattante XRL - Jamis Dakar Expert - Trek 9700 -
#14
Behind EVERYone!!!
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Burlington ON, Canada
Posts: 6,023
Bikes: 2010 Specialized Tricross Comp 105 Double
Liked 98 Times
in
31 Posts
My 57cm LeMond came stock with a 120mm stem. I recently ( a few months back) had a shorter (100mm) one put on there and feel so much better. I teied the 110mm first for awhile and still felt a bit stretched out.
Cheers,
Brian
Cheers,
Brian
__________________
“A good teacher protects his pupils from his own influence. ”
― Bruce Lee
“A good teacher protects his pupils from his own influence. ”
― Bruce Lee
#15
Cat None
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 4,508
Bikes: LOOK KG 461, LeMond Zurich, Giant Talon 29er 0
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
100mm on my LOOK and the quill stem on my LeMond is probably about the same length and I'm fine with that. Longer would be too long and shorter would probably compromise the way the bike handles.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 2,339
Bikes: Road, MTB, Folding, Commuting bikes...
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I fit perfectly on a 2005 52 cm Trek 1000 with an 80 mm stem (everything stock). My Scattante CFR 53 cm has almost identical frame measurements as my old Trek 52 except slightly wider bars and a 100 or 110 mm stem and I don't like it. I, too, feel like I'm reaching out too far. Hoping to replace it with a 80 mm..
#18
Call me The Breeze
Originally Posted by Serpico
there's some truth in what you say, but it sounds like your frame is definitely too big
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 7,681
Bikes: Pedal Force QS3
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
52cm ST, 54.5 TT, 12cm stem.
seems like I read somewhere that 10-12cm was ideal as far as weight distribution over the front wheel, etc so a custom frame should work from there....never heard it again so maybe not.
seems like I read somewhere that 10-12cm was ideal as far as weight distribution over the front wheel, etc so a custom frame should work from there....never heard it again so maybe not.
__________________
15% Hammer Nutrition Discount Code
15% Hammer Nutrition Discount Code
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,586
Bikes: A couple
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by Dial_tone
52cm ST, 54.5 TT, 12cm stem.
seems like I read somewhere that 10-12cm was ideal as far as weight distribution over the front wheel, etc so a custom frame should work from there....never heard it again so maybe not.
seems like I read somewhere that 10-12cm was ideal as far as weight distribution over the front wheel, etc so a custom frame should work from there....never heard it again so maybe not.
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 2,339
Bikes: Road, MTB, Folding, Commuting bikes...
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I think dial_tone was implying that with all other things about the frame, seat fore/aft, crank length being theoretically 'correct' for a given fit, the stem would come out to being 100-120 cm.
#22
Jacko nose historian
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Salt Lake City!
Posts: 671
Bikes: 2006 52cm Trek 2200, Specialized Rockhopper (gets infrequent use unfortunately)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
...Depends on what you want. Personally I find that anything below 100 is too twitchy. When I had a 90 I felt that on heavy climbs I had to concentrate on keeping a straight aim or I'd be zig zagging a tad too much. And then above the 30mph mark I felt I had to concentrate on the same if I wanted to feel stable, especially if I was pedaling hard at those speeds.
I have a 110 now and all of that has gone away. I can pedal as hard as I want at 40mph or mash as hard as I want in a climb and I have a straighter steer. ...Never have to think about it now.
For me it's mostly about the turn arc and how it that will change the angle of your steering under otherwise identical circumstances. I doubt I'll ever go with anything below a 110 again.
I have a 110 now and all of that has gone away. I can pedal as hard as I want at 40mph or mash as hard as I want in a climb and I have a straighter steer. ...Never have to think about it now.
For me it's mostly about the turn arc and how it that will change the angle of your steering under otherwise identical circumstances. I doubt I'll ever go with anything below a 110 again.
#23
Senior Member
Going from 10cm to 6 or 7 cm is quite a bit of change in terms of the reach. Remember, if you stick with the same degree for the stem, you're not only reducing your reach, you're also lowering the bar by a corresponding percentage. You might want to change just one or two cm first. As you bought the bike recently, the LBS might be able to just swap it for you for free?
#24
Originally Posted by theshoemaker
Personally I find that anything below 100 is too twitchy. When I had a 90 I felt that on heavy climbs I had to concentrate on keeping a straight aim or I'd be zig zagging a tad too much. And then above the 30mph mark I felt I had to concentrate on the same if I wanted to feel stable, especially if I was pedaling hard at those speeds.