double, compact, triple?
#26
Bye Bye
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,677
Likes: 2
From: Gone gone gone
I moved from a triple to a compact double this brevet season. I found I rarely touched the "little" ring on the standard triple. (52,42,30). I moved to a standard compact (50,34) and enjoyed the rest of the season. Upon building my new distance and light touring bike I debated and debated if I should go with a triple. I decided on a TA Carmina double, in 94 bcd. I currently have a "standard" set of compact rings on it - 50,34 and am running a Campy 13-29 cassette. The bike was designed for distance and light touring - and I live in the green mountain state - my favorite loop rides take me over several gaps and lots of "climby" terrain. The Carmina will allow me to use an inner ring as small as 30 - so should I tour, I'll change rings. I have a second set of rings - 48,32 for climby brevets. I'm planning on swapping to those this winter.
To me, cycling is a compromise - no matter what you do. The ideal situation would be to have an infinite set of gears - perfect for every situation. This doesn't exist - so we have doubles, triples, compacts, singlespeeds, fixed gears, high wheelers, and unicycles to choose from. I chose a unique compact double - and I'll live with the ranges - using a casette, ring swaps if necessary, and better aerobic fitness and strength to my advantage.
I learned quite a bit from a small group of riders who did the Boston Brevet series fixed - one of them riding BMB in a 42x16. They would blow by me on the climbs - and seemed to be enjoying it a heck of alot more than me - I would occassionally catch them on a descent - but often they would just spin up and go...
Gears are only a part of the equation. Not long ago bikes had 10 useable speeds (or less) and people rode and toured just fine. We now have "10 speed" drivetrains - and options for potential combinations allowing 16 - 24 useable gears. Find something you like, get a ratio that works for the terrain you ride in, and train, ride, and have fun.
Find something that works for you, love it, ride it.
To me, cycling is a compromise - no matter what you do. The ideal situation would be to have an infinite set of gears - perfect for every situation. This doesn't exist - so we have doubles, triples, compacts, singlespeeds, fixed gears, high wheelers, and unicycles to choose from. I chose a unique compact double - and I'll live with the ranges - using a casette, ring swaps if necessary, and better aerobic fitness and strength to my advantage.
I learned quite a bit from a small group of riders who did the Boston Brevet series fixed - one of them riding BMB in a 42x16. They would blow by me on the climbs - and seemed to be enjoying it a heck of alot more than me - I would occassionally catch them on a descent - but often they would just spin up and go...
Gears are only a part of the equation. Not long ago bikes had 10 useable speeds (or less) and people rode and toured just fine. We now have "10 speed" drivetrains - and options for potential combinations allowing 16 - 24 useable gears. Find something you like, get a ratio that works for the terrain you ride in, and train, ride, and have fun.
Find something that works for you, love it, ride it.
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So long. Been nice knowing you BF.... to all the friends I've made here and in real life... its been great. But this place needs an enema.
So long. Been nice knowing you BF.... to all the friends I've made here and in real life... its been great. But this place needs an enema.
#29
Originally Posted by Basscycle
Why are you looking to swap out anyway?
#30
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 12,769
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From: Rocket City, No'ala
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 5.2, 1985 Pinarello Treviso, 1990 Gardin Shred, 2006 Bianchi San Jose
Originally Posted by Basscycle
How do those numbers change w/172.5 cranks?
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#31
Originally Posted by FizzyPop
In the hope of smoother shifting than my triple. Just had the bike tuned and I'm not entirely satisfied with it. I rode double cranks when I was younger and never had any problems with shifting. I figured a compact double would be a good compromise between smoother shifting and having some lower gears.
#32
Originally Posted by Basscycle
I was considering swapping out as well and I wound up just getting a new bike.
Besides any switch would also be an upgrade as well. My current crank is a Bontrager Race with a 105 BB.
#35
Full Member

Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 200
Likes: 8
From: South Eastern PA
As a clyde at 6'4" and 280 pounds I just recently bought a barely used Trek road bike. It has a triple crank and I did not give it a second thought. After doing a 35 mile ride last weekend with a lot of hills I am glad I have the 30 tooth front ring. Without it I would have been walking up a lot of hills.
Think I would have been looked down on more for walking up hills than for having a triple. If and when I loose another 50 or 60 lbs. I might feel different but right now I am loving the 52/42/30.
Think I would have been looked down on more for walking up hills than for having a triple. If and when I loose another 50 or 60 lbs. I might feel different but right now I am loving the 52/42/30.
#37
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,341
Likes: 326
From: Mountain View, CA USA and Golden, CO USA
Bikes: 97 Litespeed, 50-39-30x13-26 10 cogs, Campagnolo Ultrashift, retroreflective rims on SON28/PowerTap hubs
Drop below 17 MPH on the big ring, move to the small ring and drop five cogs in back from 50x21 (biggest cog not fully cross-chained) to 34x15. Exceed 19 MPH on the small thing, move to the big ring and shift more to get back five cogs moving from 34x14 (smallest cog not fully cross-chained) to 50x19. It sucked.
On flat ground with the same cadence limit you can put out about 90% more power using a triple with a 39 ring than you can with a 34 and the same cassette (the 39 ring sits between where the big and small rings are on a double so the entire cassette is usable without noise). With a standard crank and 39 ring it's about 50% more. That's substantial.
If you're strong enough to spin a 39x21, 23, or 25/26 up the majority of hills you'll ride and handle the rest you can use a full-size crank without compromising on spacing between cogs or front shifting depending one whether you prefer an 11, 12, or 13 starting cog (assuming 10 speeds in back; 19/21/23 are the numbers for 9, and 23/25 11).
Otherwise you're better off with a triple.
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 09-18-12 at 09:44 PM.
#38
Personally, I'm currently on a 50-34/12-27 setup (me = weak), but I'm looking to clobber myself on the trainer this winter and come out with a 36t small chainring and possibly switching to a 12-25 cassette, to get a 14t difference up front for better shifting (it's hesitant about upshifting occasionally now). I have no use, currently, for >50x12, since I don't do racing, pacelines, or fast group rides, so 50x12 is only spun out downhill and then I'm usually fine with tucking and letting the legs rest. Especially in tris.
#39
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,341
Likes: 326
From: Mountain View, CA USA and Golden, CO USA
Bikes: 97 Litespeed, 50-39-30x13-26 10 cogs, Campagnolo Ultrashift, retroreflective rims on SON28/PowerTap hubs
Personally, I'm currently on a 50-34/12-27 setup (me = weak), but I'm looking to clobber myself on the trainer this winter and come out with a 36t small chainring and possibly switching to a 12-25 cassette, to get a 14t difference up front for better shifting (it's hesitant about upshifting occasionally now). I have no use, currently, for >50x12, since I don't do racing, pacelines, or fast group rides, so 50x12 is only spun out downhill and then I'm usually fine with tucking and letting the legs rest. Especially in tris.
39x12 will let you ride 24% faster at the same cadence before you shift to the big ring compared to 34x13 while still running as smoothly.
IMHO road compact cranks are marketing invention to cut the number of SKUs companies would need to deal with versus triple cranks but don't work as well for rider/weight/fitness/terrain combinations that aren't a good match for 53-39 x 12-23 ten cogs or 53-39 x 12-25 11 speed.
#40
Junior Member

Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 114
Likes: 1
All of my bikes have a 50-39-30 triple. 105 on 1 bike and Tiagra on the winter bike. I much prefer them to a standard double. I run a 11-23 on my road bike and a 12-28 on the winter bike. For me, I can hardly ever use the little ring, but when you need it you really need it. I have not ridden a compact double, but my buddy does. I see him shifting the FD a lot more than I do.
It's sorta like a saddle, sometime you just gotta try it and see if it works for you.
It's sorta like a saddle, sometime you just gotta try it and see if it works for you.
#41
50-39-28 x 12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23 provides a lower gear than you have now, 11T difference in your non-climbing rings, plus 16 and 18 cogs which feel good when you're riding faster solo.
39x12 will let you ride 24% faster at the same cadence before you shift to the big ring compared to 34x13 while still running as smoothly.
IMHO road compact cranks are marketing invention to cut the number of SKUs companies would need to deal with versus triple cranks but don't work as well for rider/weight/fitness/terrain combinations that aren't a good match for 53-39 x 12-23 ten cogs or 53-39 x 12-25 11 speed.
39x12 will let you ride 24% faster at the same cadence before you shift to the big ring compared to 34x13 while still running as smoothly.
IMHO road compact cranks are marketing invention to cut the number of SKUs companies would need to deal with versus triple cranks but don't work as well for rider/weight/fitness/terrain combinations that aren't a good match for 53-39 x 12-23 ten cogs or 53-39 x 12-25 11 speed.
The thing I really don't get is Spesh's "mid-compact". 52-36 has the same 16t front shifting issue as 50-34, while only have slightly easier gears than a standard. 50-36 with an 11-2X cassette makes more sense as an "intermediate strength" gearing with a taller top ratio than 50x12. At least I can create that on my own easily enough.
#42
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,745
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From: Chicago, IL
Bikes: S-Works Roubaix SL2^H4, Secteur Sport, TriCross, Kaffenback, Lurcher 29er
That's because you're looking at it from the consumer side, and not the supply side. For a supplier, the "mid-compact" allows him to sell a compact, something close to a standard double and he only has to deal with a single 110BCD crank spider.
None of this helps the consumer, but part rationalization like this is very common.
None of this helps the consumer, but part rationalization like this is very common.
#43
Administrator

Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 13,655
Likes: 2,703
From: Delaware shore
Bikes: Cervelo C5, Guru Photon, Waterford, Specialized CX
This thread is so old maybe some of the posters have 7 or 8 speed hubs. Compacts weren't invented yet.
Wonder is this sets a record for responding to the oldest thread?
Wonder is this sets a record for responding to the oldest thread?
#44
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: Nebraska
Bikes: Jamis Renegade Exploit, Scott Sportster 55
This may be an older thread, but still and interesting read. I've been contemplating updating my 1999 Raleigh R500 triple and have ridden by standard and compact doubles but not enough to know which I'd prefer. I rarely go into the granny gear on my triple so I was leaning to the standard double.
But I'm curious, have others who have moved from a triple to a double feel like one or the other types of doubles have been too much of a compromise?
But I'm curious, have others who have moved from a triple to a double feel like one or the other types of doubles have been too much of a compromise?
#45
Spin Meister
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 74
From: California, USA
Bikes: Trek Émonda, 1961 Follis (French) road bike (I'm the original owner), a fixie, a mountain bike, etc.
I've got several bikes and I've tried all three over the years, triple, compact, standard. For me, I like the most challenging hills I can find where I live. As long as I can ride in about a 38 inch gear, I can climb anything, and I don't feel compromised with either standard or compact gearing.
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This post is a natural product. Slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and are in no way to be considered flaws or defects.
This post is a natural product. Slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and are in no way to be considered flaws or defects.
#46
Descends like a rock
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4,034
Likes: 16
From: Fort Worth, TX
Bikes: Scott Foil, Surly Pacer
For me, it comes down to this. On a triple I do less shifting of the chainrings - most of the time I'm in the middle ring. Shift to big on downhills, small or middle for climbing. On a double, I shift the front more often, but the shifting performance is so much better that it makes up for it. Of course, this will be a personal choice. If I lived in a hilly area, I might lean toward a triple or compact.
#47
Live to ride ride to live
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,896
Likes: 1
From: Austin, Texas
Bikes: Calfee Tetra Pro
I need to address the issue of shifting on a triple. The shifting on the cassette is the same between a triple and a double. The triple having another chain ring on the front does slow down the shifting. However, you will be doing less shifting the front with a triple. 95% of the time I am in the middle chain ring and do not need to do any shifting on the front. I seldom use the big chain ring but will use the smallest chain ring on the nastiest hills or if I am exhausted and can't turn the pedals anymore.
If you are a flatlander, get a standard. If you live in a hilly area, a compact or a triple can give you the same range. However, the triple will have closer gear ratios but will weigh more and not shift as nice on the front chain rings.
I have been considering switching to a compact but I like having the closest gear ratios so I am sticking with my triple at this time.
If you are a flatlander, get a standard. If you live in a hilly area, a compact or a triple can give you the same range. However, the triple will have closer gear ratios but will weigh more and not shift as nice on the front chain rings.
I have been considering switching to a compact but I like having the closest gear ratios so I am sticking with my triple at this time.
#49
i think one thing people here are overlooking is the intended use.
It makes one hell of a lot of difference if you live somewhere where it is completely flat, and you have no intention of using the bike anywhere else, or if you ride through mountains regularly.
EDIT:
This thread was made half a decade ago...
It makes one hell of a lot of difference if you live somewhere where it is completely flat, and you have no intention of using the bike anywhere else, or if you ride through mountains regularly.
EDIT:
This thread was made half a decade ago...
Last edited by Cookiemonsta; 09-26-12 at 01:43 PM.
#50
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 22,676
Likes: 2,643
From: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
At any rate, "compact cranks" as a marketing term are a relatively new thing, but Sugino's 110BCD bolt pattern (and the ability to make a wide-range double with it) dates back to the 70's. Like a couple posters have noted, they're just a way to sell lower gears to someone who doesn't want to be seen with a triple.
Last edited by ThermionicScott; 09-26-12 at 01:35 PM.





