Big Guy on a Road Bike?
#1
FatTire
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Big Guy on a Road Bike?
Howdy Fellow Cyclists, I'm a long time Cyclist first time poster.
I'm looking to get a Road bike for the first time in a long time, I have a Fisher Marlin MTB that I haven't got much use out of since Moving to the City a couple years ago. I've put on a few pounds and am Pushin 250 these days (6'1") the last time I rode a road bike was 5-6yrs ago and I was about 200 then (when I'm around 200 I'm actually in really good shape). Just wondering if the Roadies are strong enough to support my ****** on them for 40-50miles at time over some of Louisiana's finest Roads and Levies.
I'm leaning towards a "Cyclo-Cross" I'd never heard of them until a year ago, but I think this type of bike would be best for our less than stellar pavement around here.
If the Roadies aren't up to the task, I might try to find some skinnier less agressive tires for my Mtn. Bike. I just remember that old Bianchi to be so great on the pavement and made clicking off miles super easy. I was a Bicyling fool 10yrs ago, I had a quiver of bikes but the one I rode the most at that time was a 1995 Mongoose Expert Pro BMX going 15miles to Driver's Ed wasn't a problem and I'd even take my Mtn. Bike on 40-50mile rides without a problem.
I'm looking to get a Road bike for the first time in a long time, I have a Fisher Marlin MTB that I haven't got much use out of since Moving to the City a couple years ago. I've put on a few pounds and am Pushin 250 these days (6'1") the last time I rode a road bike was 5-6yrs ago and I was about 200 then (when I'm around 200 I'm actually in really good shape). Just wondering if the Roadies are strong enough to support my ****** on them for 40-50miles at time over some of Louisiana's finest Roads and Levies.
I'm leaning towards a "Cyclo-Cross" I'd never heard of them until a year ago, but I think this type of bike would be best for our less than stellar pavement around here.
If the Roadies aren't up to the task, I might try to find some skinnier less agressive tires for my Mtn. Bike. I just remember that old Bianchi to be so great on the pavement and made clicking off miles super easy. I was a Bicyling fool 10yrs ago, I had a quiver of bikes but the one I rode the most at that time was a 1995 Mongoose Expert Pro BMX going 15miles to Driver's Ed wasn't a problem and I'd even take my Mtn. Bike on 40-50mile rides without a problem.
#2
FatTire
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Oh yeah I also plan on taking the bike to work when the weather is nice 20mile 1way ride, and possibly try my First Century when I get into better shape.
#4
FatTire
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Originally Posted by Jarpmann
im sure you will find a road bike that fits your needs, but i will not be much help. i would start in the Clydesdale's forums Linky
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The main thing is to get a bike that'll let you put on 28 or ideally 32mm wide tires. Those won't slow you down as much as some might say. Typical road race bikes come with 23s and max out at 28s if you're lucky. So when you shop, push hard on that issue. Make'm prove that those tires will fit.
For a big guy what having 28s or 32s means is that you can run the tires at a reasonable pressure without getting pinch flats (bottoming the rim out on the ground when you go over a bump). This means a more comfy ride, better traction even on skippy pavement, etc.
The problem for a big guy isn't so much frame size as getting strong wheels and tires wide enough that you can run them at a pressure that doesn't rattle your teeth out. I'm 200lb myself, and I prefer 28s or wider for just about everything.
A cyclocross bike is a good place to look. Those are typically built pretty stout and they have clearances generally for wider tires. Consider among others the Surly Cross-Check. Although likely bike-stores won't maybe have them on the floor for you to look at, any of them can order one out of the QBP wholesale catalog - lots of folks like those. I have another Surly bike (a Karate Monkey) and for what it costs the quality is quite good.
For a big guy what having 28s or 32s means is that you can run the tires at a reasonable pressure without getting pinch flats (bottoming the rim out on the ground when you go over a bump). This means a more comfy ride, better traction even on skippy pavement, etc.
The problem for a big guy isn't so much frame size as getting strong wheels and tires wide enough that you can run them at a pressure that doesn't rattle your teeth out. I'm 200lb myself, and I prefer 28s or wider for just about everything.
A cyclocross bike is a good place to look. Those are typically built pretty stout and they have clearances generally for wider tires. Consider among others the Surly Cross-Check. Although likely bike-stores won't maybe have them on the floor for you to look at, any of them can order one out of the QBP wholesale catalog - lots of folks like those. I have another Surly bike (a Karate Monkey) and for what it costs the quality is quite good.
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pan y agua
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most any road bike frame will be fine. You'd be pushing it with low spoke count wheels. Get a set of good 32 spoke wheels and you'll be fine.
If you wan to go high end, get some Zipp Clydesdale's
If you wan to go high end, get some Zipp Clydesdale's
#8
Making a kilometer blurry
I'd go 36 spokes. Hell, I did go with 36 spokes. 32 up front. What's 4 spokes going to hurt when you're going completely bombproof?
But yeah, stay away from the low-spoke wheels. I'd do that in general anyway unless it's for racing.
But yeah, stay away from the low-spoke wheels. I'd do that in general anyway unless it's for racing.
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Originally Posted by waterrockets
I'd go 36 spokes. Hell, I did go with 36 spokes. 32 up front. What's 4 spokes going to hurt when you're going completely bombproof?
But yeah, stay away from the low-spoke wheels. I'd do that in general anyway unless it's for racing.
But yeah, stay away from the low-spoke wheels. I'd do that in general anyway unless it's for racing.
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I've run standard wheelsets at 260lbs and never had a problem. Unless you are (a) buying a very high-end bike or (b) go with wheels with a low spoke count, you should not have any issues.
Good luck and welcome aboard!
Good luck and welcome aboard!
#11
Mettle to the Pedals
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I rode a Giant OCR2 during the second half of my losing 100 pounds. While on this bike, I went from about #260 down to #220 and I'm still riding it with no problems. It has a pretty low spoke count and I've only broken one spoke in two years of pretty solid riding.
Welcome aboard!
Welcome aboard!
#12
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One of the bikes I always look at when I visit the LBS.
Specialized Sequoia $770, and solid build. 32 spoke count rear wheel.
Specialized Sequoia $770, and solid build. 32 spoke count rear wheel.
#13
Making a kilometer blurry
Originally Posted by greenstork
I dunno, I'm 225 lbs. and I've never had any issues with my Ksyrium Equipes -- not once trued in 3000+ miles. Some low spoke count wheels are tougher than others.
3000 miles is a warmup for a durable wheelset. Depending on weather conditions and original thickness, the braking surface should be the limiting factor. I'm looking for 30,000 miles out of mine.
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Potholes aren't a good idea no matter what you weigh, but I started back riding at 220+, now around 200#, and have ridden wheels from 16 spoke count Dura Ace WH7700, self-built wheels w/15ga spokes, to the 32 spoke Chorus/Open Pro's that came on the bike I ride most often now - an aluminum frame /carbon fork about 18# total. I like narrow tires at high pressure (tubulars 21-22, my clinchers usually 23), and the only time it's really an issue is riding on the chip-seal pavement they like to use in rural areas around here. But, the faster you ride on it, the smoother it is. Don't be afraid to try 'em. Find out what you like. I have very few wheel truing problems and have never busted anything on the road. Now if I can just quit enjoying Cajun/Creole food so much I might lose some more weight. laissez le bon temp roulais.
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If you don't already do this, get out of the saddle when you're about to hit a pothole, speed bump, or other sudden jolt on the wheels. Your legs act as shock absorbers and save the wheels from absorbing all of the shock. On my mountain bike I don't worry about this, but years ago I had an old Raleigh with steel rims, and I had a problem with hitting bumps and denting the rims. I'm about 215 lbs. The narrower, higher pressure tires are great for reducing rolling resistance, but not so great for shock absorption. Even though my steel frames have been plenty tough, I think I've helped their longevity with this practice. Let your legs help and get your butt out of the saddle on bumps.
#16
FatTire
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Originally Posted by vpiuva
PNow if I can just quit enjoying Cajun/Creole food so much I might lose some more weight. laissez le bon temp roulais.
Never put on so much weight in my life since I moved here. Truly is "FAT City".
I talked to a LBS yesterday, The guy told me I wasn't that big and would be fine on just about any bike. He said over 300# and then you gotta start beefing stuff up; I took much of what he said with a bit of a grain of salt, this guy is in the business to Sell bikes and if He can sell me on a more expensive bike he'll gladly do it. I'm going to check out more shops, probably Thurs before work (today the roads were closed due to a Tornado and Tommorow I gotta take the girlfriend out for lunch).
I know all about avoiding curbs and Potholes, learned that a loooong time ago. You can get away with a lot on a MT. Bike, but I've seen some Pinch Flats on MTBs too when you don't get off the seat.
That Specialized looks nice, good price too.
2 Bikes I'm really interested in so far are the Surly CrossCheck and Jamis Nova, from Reading they sound Durable and might be a good fit for what I'm looking for.
#17
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It should be noted that there is a difference between a $500 20/24 spoke wheelset (Ksyrium Equipe, for instance) & the ones that comes will sub $1000 bikes (Alex or low end Bontragers). Either spring for a bike with a good quality set of wheels or upgrade the wheelset.
#18
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The Surly and the Jamis are both awesome bikes. I'm pretty much your size (6'-3", 250) and have been eying both those bikes from time to time.
Some great advice in this thread. Besides the wheels (which you know about), the biggest issue you might face is the seatpost; I've had a hard time finding something that didn't squeak or creak or slip down; after I while I just broke down and bought a Thompson, and that settled it.
Some great advice in this thread. Besides the wheels (which you know about), the biggest issue you might face is the seatpost; I've had a hard time finding something that didn't squeak or creak or slip down; after I while I just broke down and bought a Thompson, and that settled it.
#19
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6' 5", 215# here, and riding a LeMond Reno. The wheels were upgraded to Bontrager Selects when I bought the bike and they've been fine with 700 x 25 tires, although I don't know how our roads compare to yours. I did my first century last summer and one of the riders in our group was on a Bianchi Volpe, which isn't exactly a cyclocross bike but it leans in that direction. The Volpe rider said she'd be looking for a road bike for this year's century/centuries, as the gearing on the Bianchi was a tad low.
Happy hunting!
Happy hunting!
#20
a van down by the river
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Ditto on the Reno - I am 5'10", 250#, never had any problems with wheels, busted parts, etc. Mine is an 04, which was the last year this model was USA built, so I am not sure if that makes a difference.