Stem angles
#1
Stem angles
I'm a little bit confused about stem angles and could use some clarification.
I currentlty have an ITM Visia stem with 80° angle- that puts it almost horizontal on my bike. I like horizontal.
I'm considering getting an FSA stem and they state their stems are angled 6°. Does this mean that the it's really 84° in comparison to the ITM (90° - 6° = 84°?) If so, then the FSA stem will be angled up slightly, correct? I don't want that.
Why can't all the manufactures use the same reference point? It would be less confusing.
I currentlty have an ITM Visia stem with 80° angle- that puts it almost horizontal on my bike. I like horizontal.
I'm considering getting an FSA stem and they state their stems are angled 6°. Does this mean that the it's really 84° in comparison to the ITM (90° - 6° = 84°?) If so, then the FSA stem will be angled up slightly, correct? I don't want that.
Why can't all the manufactures use the same reference point? It would be less confusing.
Last edited by not2blu; 03-29-07 at 08:46 AM.
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,174
Likes: 0
From: Alexandria, VA
Bikes: 2007 Pergoretti Marcelo
Originally Posted by not2blu
I'm a little bit confused about stem angles and could use some clarification.
I currentlty have an ITM Vista stem with 80° angle- that puts it almost horizontal on my bike. I like horizontal.
I'm considering getting an FSA stem and they state their stems are angled 6°. Does this mean that the it's really 84° in comparison to the ITM (90° - 6° = 84°?) If so, then the FSA stem will be angled up slightly, correct? I don't want that.
Why can't all the manufactures use the same reference point? It would be less confusing.
I currentlty have an ITM Vista stem with 80° angle- that puts it almost horizontal on my bike. I like horizontal.
I'm considering getting an FSA stem and they state their stems are angled 6°. Does this mean that the it's really 84° in comparison to the ITM (90° - 6° = 84°?) If so, then the FSA stem will be angled up slightly, correct? I don't want that.
Why can't all the manufactures use the same reference point? It would be less confusing.
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#3
Faster but still slow
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,978
Likes: 2
From: Jersey
Bikes: Trek 830 circa 1993 and a Fuji WSD Finest 1.0 2006
90* is the reference point, however as you have noticed a 0 degree or a 90 degree stem(same thing) may not put you at a horizonal position because the steerer on the fork is at an angle as well.
Also, all stems(other than quill) can be flipped. So that 84* stem is also a 96* stem aka +/- 6 degrees. If you want another stem and want it to be oriented the same way as your current stem, you will need the same angle (80*).
So the question is...Why are you getting another stem if you like the one you have?
Also, all stems(other than quill) can be flipped. So that 84* stem is also a 96* stem aka +/- 6 degrees. If you want another stem and want it to be oriented the same way as your current stem, you will need the same angle (80*).
So the question is...Why are you getting another stem if you like the one you have?
#4
Banned
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,317
Likes: 0
From: GA
Originally Posted by blacksquid
One of the problems is that not all head tube angles are the same.
OP you understand how it works correctly.
As far as the standards go with quill stems 80deg, 90deg etc makes sense. With most threadless that doesn't cause they can be flipped. An 80 is usually an 80 or 100. Therefore it makes more sense to quote the angle as +/- 10deg or just 10deg.
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by not2blu
Why can't all the manufactures use the same reference point? It would be less confusing.
Most frames have a 73 degree head tube, which means that horizontal would be a 17 degree stem.
What's worse than manufacturers not agreeing on 10 degree/80 degree , 84 degree/6 degree is that some internet web sellers of stems (cough*PBK*cough) don't state the stem angles in the catalogs, just the length.
Regardless, you should not be picking a stem angle based on looks.
Last edited by DocRay; 03-29-07 at 10:32 AM.
#6
Faster but still slow
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,978
Likes: 2
From: Jersey
Bikes: Trek 830 circa 1993 and a Fuji WSD Finest 1.0 2006
Originally Posted by dutret
that has nothing to do with it.
OP you understand how it works correctly.
As far as the standards go with quill stems 80deg, 90deg etc makes sense. With most threadless that doesn't cause they can be flipped. An 80 is usually an 80 or 100. Therefore it makes more sense to quote the angle as +/- 10deg or just 10deg.
OP you understand how it works correctly.
As far as the standards go with quill stems 80deg, 90deg etc makes sense. With most threadless that doesn't cause they can be flipped. An 80 is usually an 80 or 100. Therefore it makes more sense to quote the angle as +/- 10deg or just 10deg.
It has everything to do with it if you are looking to have the relative stem angle at 0 degrees and your Steerer is at an angle as well. You have to factor this in to get the relative angle you are looking for.
#7
Over the hill

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 24,601
Likes: 1,364
From: Los Angeles, CA
Bikes: Pinarello Nytro, Momentum Transend
Originally Posted by slowandsteady
It has everything to do with it if you are looking to have the relative stem angle at 0 degrees and your Steerer is at an angle as well. You have to factor this in to get the relative angle you are looking for.
I always figured the way they measured it changed when they went to threadless. I'm not positive, but I think all quill stems were original leballed by actual angles. It sounds weird to label a stem an 84/96, so they just called it 6 so you could decide +/-
#8
Originally Posted by slowandsteady
So the question is...Why are you getting another stem if you like the one you have?
I was considering the FSA Carbon Pro stem- decent price and looks like carbon to match the rest of the bike, but I'm concerened about the angle. I wouldn't mind even if it were to angle down a bit, but it seems that w/ the 6° angle it will always angle up. I guess that's why Orbea specs ITM.
Thanks to everyone for confirming my assumptions here!
#9
This chart from Habanero gets posted here and there and has always worked for me in figuring out stem angle and virtual stem length/reach:

And text from the site (https://www.habcycles.com/fitting.html):
"Note: The above method of measuring stems is only one of a plethora of methods employed - but is probably the most popular one currently. Some manufacturers measure stems in "degrees above horizontal" (common on road bikes, and assuming ~72-3 degree head tube), "degrees from 90 degrees", etc. If in doubt, print out the chart, and use it to guesstimate your stem's "degrees above horizontal" value by aligning the bottom of the chart with a horizontal surface and sighting the stem extension against the extension lines on the chart. You'll usually be pretty close in estimating your head tube angle at 73 degrees (road) or 71 degrees (MTB). So, to arrive at "stem angle", add the head tube angle to the "extension angle" from the chart and you'll have a number that most bike shops can use."

And text from the site (https://www.habcycles.com/fitting.html):
"Note: The above method of measuring stems is only one of a plethora of methods employed - but is probably the most popular one currently. Some manufacturers measure stems in "degrees above horizontal" (common on road bikes, and assuming ~72-3 degree head tube), "degrees from 90 degrees", etc. If in doubt, print out the chart, and use it to guesstimate your stem's "degrees above horizontal" value by aligning the bottom of the chart with a horizontal surface and sighting the stem extension against the extension lines on the chart. You'll usually be pretty close in estimating your head tube angle at 73 degrees (road) or 71 degrees (MTB). So, to arrive at "stem angle", add the head tube angle to the "extension angle" from the chart and you'll have a number that most bike shops can use."





