Handlebar Stem question??
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 260
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Handlebar Stem question??
I'm going to get a carbon stem to go with my FSA K WING bar. I'm 5"9 and my pants inseam is a 30 I currently ride a TREK MADONE 5.2SL size 56 with a 110mm stem. Sometimes I feel a little streched out so I'm thinking of going with a 100mm stem, does this sound like it's a good tradeoff? By the way I dont have a long torso but don't know the meauserement.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Eastern VA
Posts: 1,724
Bikes: 2022 Fuel EX 8, 2021 Domane SL6, Black Beta (Nashbar frame), 2004 Trek 1000C for the trainer
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 270 Post(s)
Liked 447 Times
in
266 Posts
That's just one centimeter. A little more than 3/8 inch. Why don't you just ride around with your hands purposely back farther. I know the reach to the hoods or the levers in the drop is then farther but cruising along you can see how stretched out you are at no cost. Also if you flip your stem up the effect is up and back slightly if the bar is a few inches below the saddle to begin with.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Indiana & Florida
Posts: 625
Bikes: 531 steel frame Peugeot (20 yrs old) and 2005 Tommaso AS2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I agree that it might make sense to try a Performance (or other store brand) alloy stem before you drop the big money on the carbon version - or even shop for a used one - people are always selling the ones they don't want when they make the same switch you're planning. Might as well take a look at the weights while you're shopping, too. Alloy stems often compete with and beat carbon for light weight.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Athens, Ohio
Posts: 5,104
Bikes: Custom Custom Custom
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
See if your shop has a Salsa Size-o-matic stem. You can try out the shorter stem length on a trainer and see if you like it.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 260
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by biker128pedal
That's just one centimeter. A little more than 3/8 inch. Why don't you just ride around with your hands purposely back farther. I know the reach to the hoods or the levers in the drop is then farther but cruising along you can see how stretched out you are at no cost. Also if you flip your stem up the effect is up and back slightly if the bar is a few inches below the saddle to begin with.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 260
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Adgooroo
I agree that it might make sense to try a Performance (or other store brand) alloy stem before you drop the big money on the carbon version - or even shop for a used one - people are always selling the ones they don't want when they make the same switch you're planning. Might as well take a look at the weights while you're shopping, too. Alloy stems often compete with and beat carbon for light weight.
#11
pan y agua
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 31,304
Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1447 Post(s)
Liked 727 Times
in
372 Posts
It's virtually impossible to tell anything from your height, and the frame size. Too little information (for example we don't know how long your arms, are, how flexible your back is, and how you like to ride.)
Very general rule of thumb:, riding on the hoods, the handlebar should obscure the front axle. If the axle is in front of the handlebars, your stem may be too short. If the axle is behnd the handlebars, the stem may be too long.
Very general rule of thumb:, riding on the hoods, the handlebar should obscure the front axle. If the axle is in front of the handlebars, your stem may be too short. If the axle is behnd the handlebars, the stem may be too long.
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 260
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
It's virtually impossible to tell anything from your height, and the frame size. Too little information (for example we don't know how long your arms, are, how flexible your back is, and how you like to ride.)
Very general rule of thumb:, riding on the hoods, the handlebar should obscure the front axle. If the axle is in front of the handlebars, your stem may be too short. If the axle is behnd the handlebars, the stem may be too long.
Very general rule of thumb:, riding on the hoods, the handlebar should obscure the front axle. If the axle is in front of the handlebars, your stem may be too short. If the axle is behnd the handlebars, the stem may be too long.
#13
Über Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,489
Bikes: 2005 Trek 5000 (the last OCLV)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Saint Louis, MO
Posts: 549
Bikes: Motobecane fixed conversion, Faggin fixed conversion, '86 Raleigh Grand Prix
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
Very general rule of thumb:, riding on the hoods, the handlebar should obscure the front axle. If the axle is in front of the handlebars, your stem may be too short. If the axle is behnd the handlebars, the stem may be too long.
Getting properly fit couldn't hurt, either.
#15
Batüwü Creakcreak
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: The illadelph
Posts: 20,791
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 229 Post(s)
Liked 288 Times
in
160 Posts
So, flipping the stem helps by allowing you to get lower while still maintaining the same pedal:seat angle right?
I'm considering this because I like to be able to lean over a little and touch the ground with my feet but I don't feel stretched out enough when I ride.
The mm measure of the stem is the distance from the start of the stem to the handlebars, correct?
Hmm...
I'm considering this because I like to be able to lean over a little and touch the ground with my feet but I don't feel stretched out enough when I ride.
The mm measure of the stem is the distance from the start of the stem to the handlebars, correct?
Hmm...
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 260
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by littledjahn
Another one, courtesy of Greg LeMond: with your hands in the drops and your pedals at 1 o'clock - 7 o'clock, your elbows should be ~1 1/2" from your knee.
Getting properly fit couldn't hurt, either.
Getting properly fit couldn't hurt, either.
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 260
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Ryleeryno
Funny you mention it... your height, inseam, and Trek frame size are identical to mine. On my 5000 I run the FSA K-wing bar with the FSA k-force 100mm stem. The fit is perfect for me because of my longer torso but the top tube is very close to the jewels.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 6,900
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by acape
I wouldn't drop the cash on a carbon stem until you try a 100mm first to make sure it's going to be what you want.