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Mavic Open Pro CD vs. non-CD ?

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Mavic Open Pro CD vs. non-CD ?

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Old 06-25-03 | 01:22 PM
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Mavic Open Pro CD vs. non-CD ?

I've read the "CD" info on Mavic's website, none of it convinces me that the CD version is much stronger or better in any significant way to justify the higher price.

I was told by a shop that CD just makes the rim more resistant to brake wear.

Adonization? Is that french for anodization? I've heard anodizing makes alloy weaker...what do I believe?

Anyone who has used both...is there somehow a noticable difference between the rims in terms of durability or wear? Is it worth spending more money for the CD?
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Old 06-25-03 | 01:31 PM
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From: n.w. superdrome

Bikes: 1 trek, serotta, rih, de Reus, Pogliaghi and finally a Zieleman! and got a DeRosa

Its not annodizing, its a ceramic coating on the braking
surface.
There is some debate over the usefullness of ceramic
rims (by none other than Jobst Brandt), and brake
performance in wet conditions.
For myself, I'm not sure I can really tell the difference
between ceramic and nonceramic rims.
That said, the older Mavic SSC rims are outstanding,
well built (can you say bulletproof?), long lasting.
Problem was that up until today they were only available
for tubulars. I've just heard about a bunch of custom SSC
Clincher rims (MA2s I think) built for a dutch
cycling team that have become available.
I think 2 or 3 pairs are available.

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Old 06-25-03 | 01:51 PM
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Hmmmm...I had the impression that CD and Ceramic were different. CD stands for "couche dure", which in english, is basically "hard layer".

I copied Mavic's explanation of "CD":
-------------------------------
CD

Concept :
This type of adonization process reinforces the oxide layer that forms on the aluminum profile surface.
On the surface of the rim, a greater micro-hardness is obtained.

Benefits :
- Greater resistance to wear (150 - 400 times higher than any other type of adonization).
- Greater resistance to corrosion.
- Easier to build and balance the wheel.
-------------------------------

I had no idea that the oxide layer on my rims needed reinforcing. And I have yet to see corrosion on my rims. Although I am thrilled to know that a hard layer somehow makes the wheels easier to build
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Old 06-25-03 | 02:04 PM
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Get the CD if you like an all-black rim, get the regular if you like silver or metal-rimmed look.

CD is slightly heavier and noisy when braking. As it wears off it also makes the braking surface look crappy because the black wears off.
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Old 06-25-03 | 02:21 PM
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CD is not the ceramic coating. Have had both the CD and non-CD and I couldn't tell if there was any performance difference in braking or the wet. I have read that the ceramic does not perform as well as the CD or non-CD rim. Only that the braking surface lasts longer with the ceramic.

Both the non-CD and CD were excellent rims and served me very well. I would probably go for the CD if I were to get another pair. Only because I prefer the darker color.
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Old 06-25-03 | 02:34 PM
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From: Southern Maine
Hi,
my LBS just cut me a sweet deal on a pair of OP's he had. They are all grey, and have a ceramic coating. I suspect you hit the nail on the head; what could justify the extra $$$? I think they look cool, but they had been in the shop for a long time because I don't think anyone else thought they were worth the extra $$.
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Old 06-25-03 | 03:55 PM
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From: Fixing a flat

Bikes: Trek 7000

From what I understood in reading the description for CD is that the metal is case hardened (which is unusual for aluminum; case hardening is usually done on steel). Case hardening is a process by which the metal is chemically treated to have a hardened layer on the outside, and a softer, more ductile core. This is done in automobile engine camshaft lobes, where they are subject to continuous wear on the outside, yet require the ductility of steel.

I'm asuming this process increases sidewall wear against the brakes, but that's about it.
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