My first build
#26
I bid/won the wrong shifters on ebay...
I won 10 speed Ultegra, triple in the auction, but my cassette is a 9 speed & I have a double crankset.
I had the shifters in my watch list, and bid at the last moment without checking the item description first.
How big a deal is this setback?
can I make the shifters and other components work, at least temporarly?
I don't have room in the budget to just buy another set...
and waiting for then to be shipped, & then reselling them will set the time table for completion back a good while.( I have no bike to ride , I sold my Schwinn to help finance this project.)
What will I have to deal with if I keep the 10 speed shifters .... I have never used the intergrated brake/shifters before so I don't know if the extra gear/chainring position will effect my riding/enjoiment.
https://bike.shimano.com/catalog/cycl...=1182847909185
I won 10 speed Ultegra, triple in the auction, but my cassette is a 9 speed & I have a double crankset.
I had the shifters in my watch list, and bid at the last moment without checking the item description first.
How big a deal is this setback?
can I make the shifters and other components work, at least temporarly?
I don't have room in the budget to just buy another set...
and waiting for then to be shipped, & then reselling them will set the time table for completion back a good while.( I have no bike to ride , I sold my Schwinn to help finance this project.)
What will I have to deal with if I keep the 10 speed shifters .... I have never used the intergrated brake/shifters before so I don't know if the extra gear/chainring position will effect my riding/enjoiment.
https://bike.shimano.com/catalog/cycl...=1182847909185
#27
well I was able to return the shifters that I had purchased, that were wrong....*Yeah*
and my wheel set was finally delivered.... though I missed the mail man, and he took them back to the the post office, so I wont have them in my hands until monday morning
This weekend I ordered the last of the major components for my bike.... bars/brifters
I have reached a tentative amount spent on the build of $1200 for my caad 8 with all new 105 components.
and my wheel set was finally delivered.... though I missed the mail man, and he took them back to the the post office, so I wont have them in my hands until monday morning

This weekend I ordered the last of the major components for my bike.... bars/brifters
I have reached a tentative amount spent on the build of $1200 for my caad 8 with all new 105 components.
#32
Originally Posted by road racer
bike will have white fux carbon fiber bar wrap, & eventually black look Keo Sprints.
I am new to this building so any input would be appreciated.
I am new to this building so any input would be appreciated.
1. Check your cable housing lengths twice before cutting (the 'ol measure twice cut once theory), and make sure that they come out of the shifters properly. You don't want too much or too little slack. The should basically come out straight and not be so tight that they pull in far towards the bike, or too loose that they push forward. Also, if you have a dremel, it comes in handy to file down any jagged ends after cutting the cable housings.
2. When fitting the cables & housings, set them up (before cutting) and hold them in place, then rotate the handlebars back and forth to make sure everything turns properly.
3. Don't wrap the bars until you're sure the shifters are in a good place. Just use electrical tape to hold the cables in place and ride it They look a little low in the picture there, but placement is really a personal thing (it could be the angle of the pic too).
4. Follow the instructions that came with the the RD & FD to the T. If they're set up wrong from the get-go, it'll be impossible to get them to work properly. Make sure the shifters are clicked into the correct spot/position before tightening the bolt on the cables in the derailler's or you'll go insane trying to get them to work.
5. Double check the cable routing through the bolts in the FD & RD too as this can throw things off as well.
6. If you don't know how to already, check park tool's site about sizing the chain. They've got a couple different methods and they all seem to work just fine.
#33
Originally Posted by grahny
Looks good so far. Some advice...
1. Check your cable housing lengths twice before cutting (the 'ol measure twice cut once theory), and make sure that they come out of the shifters properly. You don't want too much or too little slack. The should basically come out straight and not be so tight that they pull in far towards the bike, or too loose that they push forward. Also, if you have a dremel, it comes in handy to file down any jagged ends after cutting the cable housings.
2. When fitting the cables & housings, set them up (before cutting) and hold them in place, then rotate the handlebars back and forth to make sure everything turns properly.
3. Don't wrap the bars until you're sure the shifters are in a good place. Just use electrical tape to hold the cables in place and ride it They look a little low in the picture there, but placement is really a personal thing (it could be the angle of the pic too).
4. Follow the instructions that came with the the RD & FD to the T. If they're set up wrong from the get-go, it'll be impossible to get them to work properly. Make sure the shifters are clicked into the correct spot/position before tightening the bolt on the cables in the derailler's or you'll go insane trying to get them to work.
5. Double check the cable routing through the bolts in the FD & RD too as this can throw things off as well.
6. If you don't know how to already, check park tool's site about sizing the chain. They've got a couple different methods and they all seem to work just fine.
1. Check your cable housing lengths twice before cutting (the 'ol measure twice cut once theory), and make sure that they come out of the shifters properly. You don't want too much or too little slack. The should basically come out straight and not be so tight that they pull in far towards the bike, or too loose that they push forward. Also, if you have a dremel, it comes in handy to file down any jagged ends after cutting the cable housings.
2. When fitting the cables & housings, set them up (before cutting) and hold them in place, then rotate the handlebars back and forth to make sure everything turns properly.
3. Don't wrap the bars until you're sure the shifters are in a good place. Just use electrical tape to hold the cables in place and ride it They look a little low in the picture there, but placement is really a personal thing (it could be the angle of the pic too).
4. Follow the instructions that came with the the RD & FD to the T. If they're set up wrong from the get-go, it'll be impossible to get them to work properly. Make sure the shifters are clicked into the correct spot/position before tightening the bolt on the cables in the derailler's or you'll go insane trying to get them to work.
5. Double check the cable routing through the bolts in the FD & RD too as this can throw things off as well.
6. If you don't know how to already, check park tool's site about sizing the chain. They've got a couple different methods and they all seem to work just fine.
#37
I noticed today that my tires were mounted backwards(directional)...
is this a big deal?... should I go through the hassel of remounting them?
I didn't do the origional install, the tires were on already when I picked up the wheelset.
is this a big deal?... should I go through the hassel of remounting them?
I didn't do the origional install, the tires were on already when I picked up the wheelset.
#38
Originally Posted by road racer
I noticed today that my tires were mounted backwards(directional)...
is this a big deal?... should I go through the hassel of remounting them?
I didn't do the origional install, the tires were on already when I picked up the wheelset.
is this a big deal?... should I go through the hassel of remounting them?
I didn't do the origional install, the tires were on already when I picked up the wheelset.
YEAH... gotta change those lame non OCP yellow presta valve stems, sheesh!
#41
She's very pretty. I particularly like those wheels with that frame... I hope they ride well, because it'd be a shame to have to swap them out. They look killer.
True. 
-DR
Originally Posted by road racer
the red Keo sprints are killing the sweet OCP ishness of my ride... gotta change those lame non OCP yellow presta valve stems, sheesh!

-DR
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'08 Bianchi San Jose
'06 Giant OCR C3
'04 Specialized Hardrock Comp
'08 Bianchi San Jose
'06 Giant OCR C3
'04 Specialized Hardrock Comp
#42
Originally Posted by dtadpole
sweet caad8 build-up road racer! Made me excited about my caad build reading through your thread, let us know how she rides!
Alw041 I have spent about $1200 so far, and there are still some components that i will change later, like the Felt stem and seat post.
Please understand that ALL of the components on my bike are brand new never mounted parts (except for frame) all 105 level, except chain and bb which are Ultegra
Dr Robert... I have heard nothing but good things about these wheels from the guys at Bikesport(local tri/road cycling specialty store). They train with them and even use them as *budget* race wheels...
Tom the owner of Bikesport rates them on par with Easton Vistas, but the Pro lites only cost me $167.60 for the set, and they *look Awesome* to boot.
#46
Originally Posted by ryanhulce
Remount the tires if they are directional to the correct way.
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I may be fat but I'm slow enough to make up for it.
#48
Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
I had another question for you Road Racer. I know that sizes differ between some manufacturers and i noticed that you have a couple Felt parts. Did you ride a Felt and use the extra parts? I ride a 54cm in a Felt and was wondering if it would be the same for a Cannondale.
#49
Originally Posted by alw041
I had another question for you Road Racer. I know that sizes differ between some manufacturers and i noticed that you have a couple Felt parts. Did you ride a Felt and use the extra parts? I ride a 54cm in a Felt and was wondering if it would be the same for a Cannondale.
I got the stem for $18.50 and the seat post for $37.95 including shipping.
I will eventually upgrade both components with higher lever carbon fiber units.
#50
Originally Posted by DZA_LA
Flip it!
(It didn't look as good, far too radical a head down, @$$ up position for me)
The caad already has a *very short* head tube, and somewhat racy frame geometry.











