WONDERING ABOUT THE NEW SRAM 11X28 Cassette
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WONDERING ABOUT THE NEW SRAM 11X28 Cassette
I have looking at a Sram 1070 11X28 Cassette. I will be running a Ultegra group with triple up front , but the cassette and can't decide between the 11X28 or the 11X26 Sram . I like the thought of the lower gearing . but i don't want to loose any shifting quailtiy with the 4 teeth spacing between 24 to 28 and 21 to 24 plus Shimano says that they have a 27 tooth cap. I am 50 years old with a bad leg and also have my fused ankle plus foot and we have hills in my riding area. The 11X28 would let stay in the middle ring up front most time which would be nice also . If i thought the 11X28 would work good i might go to compact double next spring. Looking for thoughts on this if anybody has them it will be very helpful.
Thanks in advance, Bill
Thanks in advance, Bill
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Shimano road derailleurs can shift onto a 30t cog with no problem. You might need to twiddle the b-screw a bit.
It sounds like the SRAM 11-28 has some big jumps between the larger cogs. IRD also makes a 11-28 with different cogs
IRD: 11/12/13/15/17/19/21/23/25/28
SRAM 11/12/13/14/15/17/19/22/25/28
IRD's got a larger jump at the high end (13-15) where SRAM has a larger jump at a lower gearing (19-22).
Personally, with a triple, I'd go for a 12-25. With that cluster you don't have any large gaps between cogs, but still have a decent spread. With a 52t big ring you probably don't need an 11t cog. If you want even lower gears you can get a smaller granny ring. I'd recommend getting a cassette that works with your triple and then getting a different one when you go to a compact double. Cassettes are cheap, and a wear item.
It sounds like the SRAM 11-28 has some big jumps between the larger cogs. IRD also makes a 11-28 with different cogs
IRD: 11/12/13/15/17/19/21/23/25/28
SRAM 11/12/13/14/15/17/19/22/25/28
IRD's got a larger jump at the high end (13-15) where SRAM has a larger jump at a lower gearing (19-22).
Personally, with a triple, I'd go for a 12-25. With that cluster you don't have any large gaps between cogs, but still have a decent spread. With a 52t big ring you probably don't need an 11t cog. If you want even lower gears you can get a smaller granny ring. I'd recommend getting a cassette that works with your triple and then getting a different one when you go to a compact double. Cassettes are cheap, and a wear item.
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Let me know if you end up wanting to buy one. I have one with about 200 miles on it. Got another cassette (12-25) with a set of wheels and haven't used/needed the 11-28 for training/racing.
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WOW I like the SRAM gear selection. Nice and tight through the middle where you paceline, and wider spacing on the climbing gears where you need it most.
I always assumed the 11-28 would be wider across the board... impressed at the thought that went into the cogset.
You should always softpedal to shift, even when climbing if possible... so the 4 tooth jump wouldn't bother me.
I always assumed the 11-28 would be wider across the board... impressed at the thought that went into the cogset.
You should always softpedal to shift, even when climbing if possible... so the 4 tooth jump wouldn't bother me.
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i plan on getting that SRAM cassette with a compact double. ive got some long-ish 10-12% grades around here that i enjoy climbing and right now it takes the 30-25 with my tripple for me to climb them. i need all the low end i can get.
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My wife's new 2008 Ruby Pro has the SRAM 11-28 on it along with a compact double. She had a triple prior to that but the new setup gives her the same range of gear ratios as her old triple. She loves it. I agree with ericm979, I'd go with a 12-25 on a triple. A triple with that 28 on the back is starting to get down into mountain bike gearing...of course with your medical issues and the hills you describe, maybe that's not a bad thing. Problem is, it may be easier to pedal but you're gonna spend twice as much time getting up that hill so I don't know what's worse, I little more effort that takes less time or less effort that keeps you climbing that hill that much longer.
I like the 39-23 on my Tarmac...while it may be harder to climb initially, eventually it made me stronger and now I spend less time getting up the hills.
I like the 39-23 on my Tarmac...while it may be harder to climb initially, eventually it made me stronger and now I spend less time getting up the hills.
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I bought an 11-28 for some climbing. Performed well, as expected, with the 33x28. The b-screw required a LOT of turning compared to my (Michigan) 50/36 11-23.
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WOW I like the SRAM gear selection. Nice and tight through the middle where you paceline, and wider spacing on the climbing gears where you need it most.
I always assumed the 11-28 would be wider across the board... impressed at the thought that went into the cogset.
You should always softpedal to shift, even when climbing if possible... so the 4 tooth jump wouldn't bother me.
I always assumed the 11-28 would be wider across the board... impressed at the thought that went into the cogset.
You should always softpedal to shift, even when climbing if possible... so the 4 tooth jump wouldn't bother me.
Huh? Is this supposed to have a smiley face at the end?
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Well, first off, his math is wrong. Second, at the low speeds where I actually use the 28 (about 5 MPH), it really wasn't that big of a deal to switch gears, even though there was a ton of load.
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That, and tell anyone that has ever sprinted for a town line, prime, national championship, stage of Le Tour, etc. that they are aren't supposed to shift at high rpm, under high loads. I'm guessing they would laugh.
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Thanks for all of the input i will take your advice and use it wisely and probally get 11X26 to go with my triple and then if i go to compact double do the 11X28 with this with the Shimano outboard bearings it is snap to change cranks if i get r700 compact to put in and i bought the r700 shifters which work with double or triple.
Thanks again guys for your thoughts and help, Bill
Thanks again guys for your thoughts and help, Bill
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You don't have to. But it does shift smoother last longer if you do. And yes, even when climbing a really steep hill, you can usually let up slightly for one revolution to let the drive train transition smoothly.
Further, if you bother to and/or are able to read, the original poster wasn't looking for "sprinting for the town line" equipment, nor discussing "sprinting for the town line"
If you want to interpret things in a context that applies more to you than to the discussion that was taking place...well that's your business. However, I didn't make a general statement for all cyclists for all of cycling for all circumstances. I made a statement in a specific context: shifting 4 tooth differences at the climbing end of a wide ratio cassette. For you to turn it into a straw man and beat it senseless is well... senseless.