Frame Sizing
#1
Thread Starter
Oldie but Newbie
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From: Ontario
Frame Sizing
O.K. here's another question I need help with. I'm 5'10" tall but my inseem is only 31" (sounds a lot worse than it looks!). I currently have a 56cm frame and the reach is fine but when I stand off the saddle over the top tube "the boys" rest on the top tube, a little scary. Should I go for a 54cm frame and use a longer stem or keep my current set up. BTW my seatpost is only 2" above the crown of the seat post. I do not have problems with any pain with my current set-up, of course that could all change should I come down on the top tube.
#2
Member
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From: Oregon
Bikes: Ridley Damocles, Dura Ace 7800
I am 5' 11" 33.5 in inseam and ride a 57 (center to top) and the fit is good. If you use the inseam (in centimeters) X .67 for a frame sized center to the top of the top tube it would suggest that your frame is too big...53 or 54 may be better. Stem length, saddle set back are also very important. I would suggest that bike shop with someone who is really knowledgeable about fit. refer to the Colorado Cyclist fit guide as a good basic source https://www.coloradocyclist.com/bikefit/#properframesize
#3
Low car diet
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Corvallis, OR, USA
Bikes: 2006 Windsor Dover w/105, 2007 GT Avalanche w/XT, 1995 Trek 820 setup for touring, 201? Yeah single-speed folder, 199? Huffy tandem.
What length stem are you running on the 56? It's probably only a one to two cm difference in top tube length, so if you aren't already running a longish stem, it sounds like a 54 cm with a slightly longer stem (& possibly higher to counter shorter head tube), would suit you.
#4
Over the hill

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From: Los Angeles, CA
Bikes: Pinarello Nytro, Momentum Transend
If your bike fits, keep it. I am 5'11" with only a 31" inseam and I ride a 57cm frame. The issue for me isn't stem length but seat tube angle. I have long thighs and even with a setback seatpost need a 73 (or less) degree angle.
If your saddle isn't all the way back and your stem is currently shorter than 120mm, you could probably get away with a 54. However with all the knee problems and back aches I've had from bikes that just wouldn't fit, I'm an advocate of riding whatever fits, and my boys rest on the top tube as well.
If your saddle isn't all the way back and your stem is currently shorter than 120mm, you could probably get away with a 54. However with all the knee problems and back aches I've had from bikes that just wouldn't fit, I'm an advocate of riding whatever fits, and my boys rest on the top tube as well.
#5
Thread Starter
Oldie but Newbie
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From: Ontario
I have another 56cm that I ride, mind you it's vintage (1982) and it has a 110mm stem, I find I have no issue with this bike except I feel that the stem could be shorter with more rise as I prefer to sit up more than lay over the top tube. I also find that relieves pressure from the nose of the saddle. My seat is set in the middle and not all the way back. I did have a Large Devinci Bike prior to this but I had no issue since it was a compact geometry with a sloping top tube. My new frame (being older) is not. My biggest fear with a 54cm is I will feel cramped in it's normal set-up and if I move the seat back and go longer on the stem I will be in the position I do not like (laying over top tube). Any of this make sense?
#6
Over the hill

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From: Los Angeles, CA
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Makes sense, but as long as you can make all the important dimensions the same (saddle position in relation to bottom bracket, saddle height, saddle back to handlebar, and saddle to bar drop) the only thing that should feel different would be the bike's handling. You would obviously need to have the bar higher in relation to the frame on the smaller frame.
#8
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: SE Minnesota
Bikes: are better than yours.
If you're comfortable, don't mess with it. That said, if you want a new frame or are nervous about crashing into the top tube, that's fine, but much of the advice you get here will be useless. Anybody who tells you what size you should be riding knowing nothing more than your height and inseam with no information about the frame you are considering is giving you advice that is dubious at best.
Frame sizes aren't like sock sizes where you can take a single measurement and have a size that will always work. Geometries and how sizes are measured vary greatly between manufacturers and even models from the same manufacturer.
Also, the further your measurements fall outside the norm, the more physical limitations you have and the older you get, the more important a decent fit becomes.
Frame sizes aren't like sock sizes where you can take a single measurement and have a size that will always work. Geometries and how sizes are measured vary greatly between manufacturers and even models from the same manufacturer.
Also, the further your measurements fall outside the norm, the more physical limitations you have and the older you get, the more important a decent fit becomes.
#10
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Joined: Oct 2004
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Bikes are for riding, not for standing over. I'm a bit under 5'10, and the road bikes with traditional geometry that fit me the best are in the size 57 to size 61 range. With traditional geometry, the top tube of a size 57 will be lightly brushing against my crotch when I stand flat-footed over the bike. And, on a size 61, the top tube would be pressing into my crotch to an uncomfortable extent if I stood flat-footed over the bike.
But, those bikes fit me perfectly when I riding and I NEVER stand flat-footed over a bike during a ride. At a stop light, I put just one foot down and keep one foot on a pedal. No problem.
If you buy a "too small" bike, the bars are likely to end up two, three, or four inches lower than the top of the saddle, shifting your weight to your hands, and leading to pain in the hands, wrists, neck, and back on long rides.
But, those bikes fit me perfectly when I riding and I NEVER stand flat-footed over a bike during a ride. At a stop light, I put just one foot down and keep one foot on a pedal. No problem.
If you buy a "too small" bike, the bars are likely to end up two, three, or four inches lower than the top of the saddle, shifting your weight to your hands, and leading to pain in the hands, wrists, neck, and back on long rides.
Last edited by alanbikehouston; 12-19-07 at 07:38 AM.
#12
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From: Delaware shore
Bikes: Cervelo C5, Guru Photon, Waterford, Specialized CX
My advice is find a knowledgable bike shop and have someone take a look at you on the bike. As others have said, opinions on this forum from people that ahven't seen you are mostly useless.
My first bike was a 58 and now I know it was too bike. I've since gone with 56 and could tell a difference from the first even though the geometery was similar to a couple I now have.
My first bike was a 58 and now I know it was too bike. I've since gone with 56 and could tell a difference from the first even though the geometery was similar to a couple I now have.
#13
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From: Delaware shore
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I just remembered something from your OP. Since you have only 2" of seatpost showing, you really need someone experienced to closely look at you on that frame. It likely is too small. If you look at most of the pictures of members bikes posted on this forum, you'll see a range of 6"-10" inches of post showing.
#14
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From: SE Minnesota
Bikes: are better than yours.
I just remembered something from your OP. Since you have only 2" of seatpost showing, you really need someone experienced to closely look at you on that frame. It likely is too small. If you look at most of the pictures of members bikes posted on this forum, you'll see a range of 6"-10" inches of post showing.
#15
Over the hill

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From: Los Angeles, CA
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Yep, here's my bike with very little seatpost showing. It's a little on the large side, but I needed a relaxed seat tube.

Find someone who can look at you on the bike and decide if you're fitted properly or not.

Find someone who can look at you on the bike and decide if you're fitted properly or not.
#16
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From: Delaware shore
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Bad advice. First we have no idea if OP has his saddle height correct. Secondly, he's riding traditional geometry instead of the compact geometry usually favored here. Six to ten inches of seat post on traditional geometry is usually an indication of bad fit while it is normal on compact frames. Two inches is a bit less than ideal on a traditional frame, but often very workable. Back in the day, three to four inches was the norm.
#17
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: SE Minnesota
Bikes: are better than yours.
https://www.allposters.com/View_HighZ...&imgheight=819
Maybe you prefer someone more recent:
https://www.velonews.com/images/cyc/7321.9802.f.jpg
Or someone more French:
https://www.cyclesmenet.com/2007/vista2.jpg
Or the French guy when he was younger:
https://www.velo-club.net/nicolas/hinault1978.jpg
Six inches is pushing it for seat post exposure on a traditional geometry frame and the fact that your informal polling of bike weeinies in the throes of the little bike and massive drop fad shows that most of them don't go any further ought to tell you something. Certainly, a six inch minimum is bunk.
#18
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you can't determine proper fit by looking at someone else (or some racer's) bike. You should determine fit by your own standard of comfort. If you do not feel you have enough knowledge, get a real person to help you.
wrenchscience.com had a fit system to determine the proper size by your specific body measurements. That would help you get in the ballpark but this is where I feel the internet cannot help you all the way.
I am religious about my bike fit, but it has been determined through my personal comfort and control on the bike, never how a pro is setup.
Please don't follow photos of someone with no relation to your phisiology, skeletal structure, musculature, flexibility or a million ergonomic factors. That person is not you. Your fit may change as your body changes as well. It is very important because cycling is a repetitive motion, and could cause real injury if you are improperly fit.
good luck!
wrenchscience.com had a fit system to determine the proper size by your specific body measurements. That would help you get in the ballpark but this is where I feel the internet cannot help you all the way.
I am religious about my bike fit, but it has been determined through my personal comfort and control on the bike, never how a pro is setup.
Please don't follow photos of someone with no relation to your phisiology, skeletal structure, musculature, flexibility or a million ergonomic factors. That person is not you. Your fit may change as your body changes as well. It is very important because cycling is a repetitive motion, and could cause real injury if you are improperly fit.
good luck!
#19
Over the hill

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From: Los Angeles, CA
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Cruiserhead, I don't think the pics are meant as a guide. They are meant to ease the mind of the OP that there is nothing wrong with a bike that's set up that way. As mentioned before again and again, he should ride what feels right. We just want him to know that "right" could mean 4" of seatpost or 14"
#20
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Joined: Sep 2005
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14" of seatpost on a traditional frame is stupid. I don't even have 14" showing on my compact-frame mountain bike.
Even hard-core old-school pursuit bikes would rarely have more than 8" showing, because they'd have downward-sloping top tubes; even after all that the rider's hand positions were only a bit lower than normal drops.
Even hard-core old-school pursuit bikes would rarely have more than 8" showing, because they'd have downward-sloping top tubes; even after all that the rider's hand positions were only a bit lower than normal drops.
#21
Batüwü Creakcreak
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: The illadelph
I have about 6-7 inches of seatpost showing after the lbs fit me. I need to go back and get the fit modifies a little because I get a little lower back pain on longer rides.
For comparison, I'm 5'10 and I have a 32-33ish inch inseam. I used to ride a 56 motobecane and I got shoulder pain on longer rides. I'm now on a 54 cannondale.
For comparison, I'm 5'10 and I have a 32-33ish inch inseam. I used to ride a 56 motobecane and I got shoulder pain on longer rides. I'm now on a 54 cannondale.
#22
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
I have about 6-7 inches of seatpost showing after the lbs fit me. I need to go back and get the fit modifies a little because I get a little lower back pain on longer rides.
For comparison, I'm 5'10 and I have a 32-33ish inch inseam. I used to ride a 56 motobecane and I got shoulder pain on longer rides. I'm now on a 54 cannondale.
For comparison, I'm 5'10 and I have a 32-33ish inch inseam. I used to ride a 56 motobecane and I got shoulder pain on longer rides. I'm now on a 54 cannondale.
Road Fan
#23
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12,275
Likes: 6
From: SE Minnesota
Bikes: are better than yours.
you can't determine proper fit by looking at someone else (or some racer's) bike. You should determine fit by your own standard of comfort. If you do not feel you have enough knowledge, get a real person to help you.
wrenchscience.com had a fit system to determine the proper size by your specific body measurements. That would help you get in the ballpark but this is where I feel the internet cannot help you all the way.
I am religious about my bike fit, but it has been determined through my personal comfort and control on the bike, never how a pro is setup.
Please don't follow photos of someone with no relation to your phisiology, skeletal structure, musculature, flexibility or a million ergonomic factors. That person is not you. Your fit may change as your body changes as well. It is very important because cycling is a repetitive motion, and could cause real injury if you are improperly fit.
good luck!
wrenchscience.com had a fit system to determine the proper size by your specific body measurements. That would help you get in the ballpark but this is where I feel the internet cannot help you all the way.
I am religious about my bike fit, but it has been determined through my personal comfort and control on the bike, never how a pro is setup.
Please don't follow photos of someone with no relation to your phisiology, skeletal structure, musculature, flexibility or a million ergonomic factors. That person is not you. Your fit may change as your body changes as well. It is very important because cycling is a repetitive motion, and could cause real injury if you are improperly fit.
good luck!






