Hill Climb race - thoughts on gearing?
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Hill Climb race - thoughts on gearing?
A local hill climb race boasts a "pleasant" 6.75 mile climb, gains 2,626ft up to the summit (Wintergreen, VA), at an average grade of 7.5% with maximum grades of 18%. Should I trudge up in a 53/39--more likely just the 39 ring--with an 11/25, or consider getting a smaller ring and perhaps getting a cogset that will allow a 27 or 29 for the rear? What do you think? I've got until May to make my decision. Cheers!
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Gearing's a personal choice but I'd rather have a gear or two I did't use versus being half way up the climb wishing I had one or two more...
#3
Keep on climbing
Depends on how good a climber you are and how well you want to do, etc. How long are the 18% grade sections? I personally find it difficult to stand on a grade around 18%, as it's hard to keep from doing an unintentional wheelie when you start rocking the bike back and forth. Personally I would want a compact, but then again -- I'm old and slow, and I like having functioning knees.
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;+1, 18% is certainly getting there. 39x25 would be pretty good going if you can tackle it. Assuming you're not about to switch out your 53/39 for a 50/34 then I'd go with the bigest rear cassette you can -- as the last post said, it's good to have a surplus gear. I can tackle most <10% grades with a 39x27, but there are some occasions when I need to go lower. FWIW I have a triple.....
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i'm going to pray that my 38x27 is going to work well enough for me at wintergreen this year. See you there!!!
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A local hill climb race boasts a "pleasant" 6.75 mile climb, gains 2,626ft up to the summit (Wintergreen, VA), at an average grade of 7.5% with maximum grades of 18%. Should I trudge up in a 53/39--more likely just the 39 ring--with an 11/25, or consider getting a smaller ring and perhaps getting a cogset that will allow a 27 or 29 for the rear? What do you think? I've got until May to make my decision. Cheers!
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If your knees are up to it, 39x25 is an sufficient gear. You might be moving the crank over at only 40rpm, but you'll survive. BTW, 40RPM at 39x25=4.9mph. A 29t cog, while being a bit odd and perhaps finicky to get working right, only drops the speed to 4.2mph at 40RPM.
#9
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Very dependent on two factors in my opinion:
• How realistic are the '18%' grades (i.e. are the actually 18, steeper or easier?), and HOW LONG ARE THOSE SECTIONS? Doubtful that they're more than 100 meters each. You do want to know this of course. NEVER race a hilly course you haven't pre-ridden if you can possibly avoid it. VERY bad idea. Knowing what you're in for is a major key psych element.
• If that's the case (18% sections that aren't stupid long), if you can't do this 'race' with a 39 x 25, don't bother. You'll be getting shelled. Big time.
In other words from your description you should be racing this hill in the 39 x 17,19,21, 23, and the 25 should be the bail-out gear for the steepest parts.
I do a hilly TT in early May, it has one or two 15%+ sections, I generally get over them in the 21, I may have to downshift to the 23 at the top when my legs are fried, can't recall, 5.5 mile TT, 1200 vertical feet of climbing. To be generous, I am an average climber, not a great climber, so if you can climb, what I'm saying is even more true.
• How realistic are the '18%' grades (i.e. are the actually 18, steeper or easier?), and HOW LONG ARE THOSE SECTIONS? Doubtful that they're more than 100 meters each. You do want to know this of course. NEVER race a hilly course you haven't pre-ridden if you can possibly avoid it. VERY bad idea. Knowing what you're in for is a major key psych element.
• If that's the case (18% sections that aren't stupid long), if you can't do this 'race' with a 39 x 25, don't bother. You'll be getting shelled. Big time.
In other words from your description you should be racing this hill in the 39 x 17,19,21, 23, and the 25 should be the bail-out gear for the steepest parts.
I do a hilly TT in early May, it has one or two 15%+ sections, I generally get over them in the 21, I may have to downshift to the 23 at the top when my legs are fried, can't recall, 5.5 mile TT, 1200 vertical feet of climbing. To be generous, I am an average climber, not a great climber, so if you can climb, what I'm saying is even more true.
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pcad, which TT are you doing.
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Very dependent on two factors in my opinion:
• How realistic are the '18%' grades (i.e. are the actually 18, steeper or easier?), and HOW LONG ARE THOSE SECTIONS? Doubtful that they're more than 100 meters each. You do want to know this of course. NEVER race a hilly course you haven't pre-ridden if you can possibly avoid it. VERY bad idea. Knowing what you're in for is a major key psych element.
• If that's the case (18% sections that aren't stupid long), if you can't do this 'race' with a 39 x 25, don't bother. You'll be getting shelled. Big time.
In other words from your description you should be racing this hill in the 39 x 17,19,21, 23, and the 25 should be the bail-out gear for the steepest parts.
I do a hilly TT in early May, it has one or two 15%+ sections, I generally get over them in the 21, I may have to downshift to the 23 at the top when my legs are fried, can't recall, 5.5 mile TT, 1200 vertical feet of climbing. To be generous, I am an average climber, not a great climber, so if you can climb, what I'm saying is even more true.
• How realistic are the '18%' grades (i.e. are the actually 18, steeper or easier?), and HOW LONG ARE THOSE SECTIONS? Doubtful that they're more than 100 meters each. You do want to know this of course. NEVER race a hilly course you haven't pre-ridden if you can possibly avoid it. VERY bad idea. Knowing what you're in for is a major key psych element.
• If that's the case (18% sections that aren't stupid long), if you can't do this 'race' with a 39 x 25, don't bother. You'll be getting shelled. Big time.
In other words from your description you should be racing this hill in the 39 x 17,19,21, 23, and the 25 should be the bail-out gear for the steepest parts.
I do a hilly TT in early May, it has one or two 15%+ sections, I generally get over them in the 21, I may have to downshift to the 23 at the top when my legs are fried, can't recall, 5.5 mile TT, 1200 vertical feet of climbing. To be generous, I am an average climber, not a great climber, so if you can climb, what I'm saying is even more true.
You're close to C-ville. If you haven't done the ride before, may I suggest you takeoff from Batesville (on 151). Go Southwest on 151 until you get to 664. Turn right & suffer. At least I think those directions are right. Been a while since I lived in the area.
#12
Peloton Shelter Dog
I haven't done this hill as a race, but it is definitely one where you want extra gears at your disposal. Better to be able to spin a 34-23 or 34-25 than to be bogged down in a 39-25.
You're close to C-ville. If you haven't done the ride before, may I suggest you takeoff from Batesville (on 151). Go Southwest on 151 until you get to 664. Turn right & suffer. At least I think those directions are right. Been a while since I lived in the area.
You're close to C-ville. If you haven't done the ride before, may I suggest you takeoff from Batesville (on 151). Go Southwest on 151 until you get to 664. Turn right & suffer. At least I think those directions are right. Been a while since I lived in the area.
'Climbing' alone and racing up the same hill are very different indeed. But there are only two ways to find this out:
1) Listen to Pcad
2) Go get your head handed to you this year, then go back next year knowing better
You're welcome.
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On the idea of using a cassette with a 27 or 29, the biggest cog you can use with a short cage derailleur might be a 28. I think 27 is spec'd as the biggest, and there's enough room for a 28 without pulley clearance problems, but I don't know about a 29.
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i see your from the RVA, it might be worth going over to old gun and trying out a short climb to see what gearing you would use. Just keep in mind that the hill climb is alot longer. Are you on the VCU team by any chance?
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I rode that the first time when the Tour Dupont used to come through there. Before the race, I saw some reasonably fit people walking up it, with gears in the 39/25 range.
It just depends on how strong a climber you are.
You're in Richmond. Go over to Church Hill, and climb the really steep cobbled section that the Tour Dupont used to go up. Whatever gear you can keep spinning a decent cadence on that should be appropriate for Wintergreen.
It just depends on how strong a climber you are.
You're in Richmond. Go over to Church Hill, and climb the really steep cobbled section that the Tour Dupont used to go up. Whatever gear you can keep spinning a decent cadence on that should be appropriate for Wintergreen.
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Wintergreen is a beast of a hillclimb TT. I'll be there with a 39/26.
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Apparently. I don't think you'll be 'racing' anybody in a 34-23. Trust me on that.
'Climbing' alone and racing up the same hill are very different indeed. But there are only two ways to find this out:
1) Listen to Pcad
2) Go get your head handed to you this year, then go back next year knowing better
You're welcome.
'Climbing' alone and racing up the same hill are very different indeed. But there are only two ways to find this out:
1) Listen to Pcad
2) Go get your head handed to you this year, then go back next year knowing better
You're welcome.
And really, Wintergreen is nasty. That and I'm a convert to the school of the compact. I think of all those years wasted on steep climbs trying to push my 39-23 out of vanity...
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Wintergreen is a tough hill climb. First time I rode it using a 12-23 cassette. Had to stop 4 times cause the pain was too great and my lungs were about to bust open. Still made it up in around 53-54 minutes, middle to back of the pack in the masters 50+ category. If I ride it this year I will use at least a 12-27 with a 39 front ring. Winning times are in the high 30s low 40s for most categories. At 6'2" and 190 lbs I wasn't made too well for climbing so it is what it is. I've said it before, I think this climb is tougher than Brasstown Bald in Georgia, and twice the length.
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I've done both on multiple ocassions, and I'd disagree. First, Brasstown is legitimately over 20% at it's steepest. Wintergreen doesn't claim to be over 18%. Second, I've done Wintergreen in a 39/23. I know I'd fall over sideways with that gearing on Brasstown. Third Wintergreen is only shorter than Wintergreen if you don't consider the climb up Jack's Gap, which is really part of the total climb.
#21
Peloton Shelter Dog
Ahh, but #2 is the key to proper self-loathing. If we all learned from the mistakes of others, who would we have around to make mistakes to learn from?
And really, Wintergreen is nasty. That and I'm a convert to the school of the compact. I think of all those years wasted on steep climbs trying to push my 39-23 out of vanity...
And really, Wintergreen is nasty. That and I'm a convert to the school of the compact. I think of all those years wasted on steep climbs trying to push my 39-23 out of vanity...
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Again, don't confuse riding with racing. I have never seen a climb in a race that couldn't be handled with a 39 x 21 or 23, that's amateur Cat 3/4 racing. That doesn't mean they don't exist, but they are few and far between. Even then, a 39 x 25 should do it. Again, if you need something lighter, I don't think you'll be racing. You'll be riding the same course as the guys who are racing up ahead of you. Wait, that sounds like how I 'race'.
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If it's local, go and ride it at your threshold. If your gearing isn't low enough to get you into your most efficient climbing cadence at threshold, then you need lower gearing. For a long hillclimb race you are likely to go hard at the start, then eventually as people get shelled off the back, you'll get shelled too. Usually for these kinds of races the "lead pack" is one or two riders. Once you have hit your limit you'll continue at your threshold. So gear for that. If it is a really long race you should bring a cluster with at least one lower ratio in case you crack, but for a single 2600' climb that's not so much of an issue.