bars and stem recommendation
#2
proud of his bunny
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: UCSC
Bikes: 2006 Masi Gran Corsa Premio custom build: Full 105, Easton EC70 fork, Easton Circuit Wheelset // 2007 Specialized Stumpjumper (stock for now)
carbon stem is just a waste of money and it doesn't save weight either. a good aluminum stem (like Easton's EA90) is a much better value for your money, oh and in the case of Easton, it's lighter than their most expensive carbon stem. But in any case, stem doesn't matter, and if you're dead set on carbon don't listen to me. Get what you can afford, what looks good to you and is in the length you need.
As for bars, what matters most aside from width, (even more than whether it's carbon or alu) is the style of bend you want in the drops, the reach from the drops to the levers, and the height. Basically, it's a very personal choice based on your comfort and hand size, so it might be worth trying a few bars out at a bike shop, if you're willing to buy locally.
Personally, I like aluminum better for cockpit components, because the bars are the first things you whack if you crash or your bike just falls over for whatever reason. I don't want the possibility of my bars snapping as I descend 2000 feet over two miles to haunt me in the back of my mind. Secondly, I have found some very comfortable aluminum bars (Ritchey BioMax) that weigh a ton, but just feel right to my hands. I'm no stranger to carbon components, but I kind of think it's a waste of money here.
As for bars, what matters most aside from width, (even more than whether it's carbon or alu) is the style of bend you want in the drops, the reach from the drops to the levers, and the height. Basically, it's a very personal choice based on your comfort and hand size, so it might be worth trying a few bars out at a bike shop, if you're willing to buy locally.
Personally, I like aluminum better for cockpit components, because the bars are the first things you whack if you crash or your bike just falls over for whatever reason. I don't want the possibility of my bars snapping as I descend 2000 feet over two miles to haunt me in the back of my mind. Secondly, I have found some very comfortable aluminum bars (Ritchey BioMax) that weigh a ton, but just feel right to my hands. I'm no stranger to carbon components, but I kind of think it's a waste of money here.
#3
Have bike. Will travel.
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: -=Toronto=-
Bikes: '06 Orbea Orca, '03 Rocky Mountain Vertex 70, '05 Surly Steamroller, '06 Fetish Fixation
#4
proud of his bunny
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: UCSC
Bikes: 2006 Masi Gran Corsa Premio custom build: Full 105, Easton EC70 fork, Easton Circuit Wheelset // 2007 Specialized Stumpjumper (stock for now)
Originally Posted by Zipp Marketing
But maybe best of all, the SL is a round drop bar. In other words, it doesn't have anatomic drops, and while we know better than to get too vocal with our personal idiosyncrasies around here, we find our distaste for anatomic bars almost uncontainable. The SL is built with the exact sort of lovely round drops every cyclist should prefer thanks to the fact that human hands meld more naturally to roundness than to the senseless flats of an anatomic bend.
#5
#6
Carbon bars are stems are madness. They don't save any meaningful amount of weight over lightweight aluminum ones. The amount of money spent on them could be spent on pretty significant weight-savings things like forks or wheels.
They carry a high risk of catastrophic failure. Even if they don't fail catastrophically, then they're still extremely fragile and prone to breaking from something as simple tipping your bike over, never mind crashing.
Some people say that they dampen the effects of the road, but so does cork tape, or gel pads underneath the cork tape, gel gloves, and carbon forks.
They carry a high risk of catastrophic failure. Even if they don't fail catastrophically, then they're still extremely fragile and prone to breaking from something as simple tipping your bike over, never mind crashing.
Some people say that they dampen the effects of the road, but so does cork tape, or gel pads underneath the cork tape, gel gloves, and carbon forks.
Last edited by bonechilling; 03-11-08 at 10:12 PM.
#7
markyore
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 669
Likes: 0
From: NH
Bikes: Specailized s-works E5
I have some EC90 carbon bars and really like them. I recently bought some FSA K-wings for another build they look cool but havn't tried them yet.
As for stems I stick with Alu here as there are usually lighter than carbon, Ritchey WCS 4-axis are my #1 choice here (also see them on a lot of pros bikes)
As for stems I stick with Alu here as there are usually lighter than carbon, Ritchey WCS 4-axis are my #1 choice here (also see them on a lot of pros bikes)
#8
Parttime Member


Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,104
Likes: 19
From: Central IL
Bikes: 2021 Cannondale Topstone Neo SL, 2021 Tesoro Neo SL EQ, 2012 Marin Bridgeway City; 1996 Cannondale MT1000 tandem
Have the best of both worlds, ITM Millennium Wing Shape carbon wrapped AL bars. Not the lightest, tho, at 310 grams.
#12
Thomson elite stem
Deda Newton Handlebars
Deda Newton Handlebars
#13
Any decent 4-bolt stem. Thompson stems are the classiest and American made, as well as being fairly lightweight. Lots of people here like Ritchey stems, those are good.
As for bars, it's all personal preference! I use Cinelli Criteriums on one of my bikes, and TTT Primas on another. I love both.
As for bars, it's all personal preference! I use Cinelli Criteriums on one of my bikes, and TTT Primas on another. I love both.
#14
How can we make any recomendations without knowing your preferences to shape. Bars come in every shape imaginable. What do you like?
short reach, long reach, small drop, big drop, flat transition to the hoods, deep transition, anatomic bend, classic bend, ect..
#15
proud of his bunny
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 885
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From: UCSC
Bikes: 2006 Masi Gran Corsa Premio custom build: Full 105, Easton EC70 fork, Easton Circuit Wheelset // 2007 Specialized Stumpjumper (stock for now)
#16
Should I replace the aluminum Icon bars on my 1999 Trek 2300? I replaced the quill stem with a generic threadless stem/adapter because the icon quill stem was recalled for cracking problems, Im thinking it wouldn't hurt to get rid of the old handlebars.
#17
Have bike. Will travel.
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: -=Toronto=-
Bikes: '06 Orbea Orca, '03 Rocky Mountain Vertex 70, '05 Surly Steamroller, '06 Fetish Fixation
I think that's more the marketing of Competitive Cyclist. Their write ups are always a little cocksure.
#18
Mmmmm Donuts!
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,069
Likes: 1
From: Crownsville, MD
Bikes: 1998 IF Crown Jewel
I've been very happy with the FSA OS-115 alum. stem and carbon K-Force bar combo on my IF. I'm a big guy, sprinter type and they've given me no reason to doubt my confidence in them. I've got them wrapped with Cinelli gel cork bar wrap for even more comfort. Carbon really does take the buzzyness out. On my IF switching to the carbon front end (new alphaQ fork too) cut about a 1lb off and now the bike turns in even better.
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'09 Cannondale CAAD9 - Team Latitude/ABRT Special.
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John
'09 Cannondale CAAD9 - Team Latitude/ABRT Special.
'04 Lemond Victorie Ti
'98 IF Crown Jewel (dead)
'92 Trek2100 (TT)
'50 something Gino Bartali (fixer)
'02 Ducati ST4s (Moto-Ref mount)
My Blog
#19
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 697
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From: Eugene, OR
Since you didn't give many specifics I recommend what I use: a lovely 3ttt quill stem and 38cm Cinelli Giro D'Italia bars circa 1972. BTW they are steel, I've heard that aluminum is more prone to "catastrophic failure" than steel.
#20
Banned
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,387
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From: Santa Barbara, CA
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac SL2, Specialized Tarmac SL, Giant TCR Composite, Specialized StumpJumper Expert HT
#21
I've got an EA70 stem available in the for sale area. I like Ritchey WCS stuff.
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"The older you do get, the more rules they're gonna try to get you to follow. You just gotta keep livin', man, L-I-V-I-N." - Wooderson
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#23
#24
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Southeast USA
I'd like short reach small drop, flat transition to hoods w/anatomic bend.
#25
Senior Member
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From: Cornhole, Iowa
+100000 on the Deda Alu stuff. It's light and not expensive. Get it from PBK. Zero stem if you want light and stiff, Newton stem if you want really stiff. Then get a Newton handlebar in your choice of Anatomic (yuck), Short round drop (ya!!!), or Deep round drop.
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Get on a cross bike.... you'll like it ;)
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