Impressive - FSA Ceramic BB
#26
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When the industry went to external bearings, they started using industry standard, sealed, cartridge bearings. Because of the bigger diameter, the seal drag is proportionally increased, which makes it look like the bearings don't rotate as smoothly as the old cartridge BBs. But it's just seal drag. When you are turning the crank slowly, the seals create, say, 'x' N-m of torque. Because you are rotating the cranks with your hand on a workstand, 'x' N-m is a relatively large proportion of the total torque on the crank. But when you are stomping on the pedals, the seals still only exert 'x' amount of torque, but the total amount of torque on the crank is now 100 times larger, so the percentage of the total torque that 'x' exerts on the crank is now 100 times smaller.
Say seal drag was 10% of the torque on the crank when you spin the crankarms on the workstand. When you are pedaling, that same seal drag is now only 0.1% of the total torque because the actual number stayed the same while the total torque on the crank increased 100 fold. Spinning the cranks on the workstand is a poor measure of bearing drag.
So, all this talk about lower friction in ceramic bearings is just because of better seals which drag less so the cranks rotate more freely on the workstand. The only benefit ceramic bearings have is in increased wear life, because the ceramic balls are harder than any contaminants that might get into the bearings, and they will not pit and become egg shaped over time like steel bearings will. If that's worth going from a $20 bearing set to a $200 bearing set, then more power to you.
Say seal drag was 10% of the torque on the crank when you spin the crankarms on the workstand. When you are pedaling, that same seal drag is now only 0.1% of the total torque because the actual number stayed the same while the total torque on the crank increased 100 fold. Spinning the cranks on the workstand is a poor measure of bearing drag.
So, all this talk about lower friction in ceramic bearings is just because of better seals which drag less so the cranks rotate more freely on the workstand. The only benefit ceramic bearings have is in increased wear life, because the ceramic balls are harder than any contaminants that might get into the bearings, and they will not pit and become egg shaped over time like steel bearings will. If that's worth going from a $20 bearing set to a $200 bearing set, then more power to you.
1. Cheap.
2. Well sealed - will help keep water out.
3. Seal drag is arguably small.
The magnitude of the seal drag and it's overall "power loss" under load is very small. I have read the article where Zinn did testing and basically verified we're talking a very small loss of watts. fractional IIRC.
My other contention though was that even a small loss of power due to poor seal selection/application should be something that could be overcome easily and inexpensively with the correct bearing selection.
Ceramic is not necessary. Feeling faster is in your mind. Can improvements be made? Yes.
Would we even be discussing this or debating it if the difference in price was $10-$15?
...well most of us wouldn't but the poor scientists would be.
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First off, this is seal drag I am talking about; has nothing to do with bearings. I have an old, worn out cartridge bearing (from a formula hub; destroyed by setting my chain tension too high on my fixed gear) sitting on my desk at work with rough, pitted bearings (but no seal) that will easily cause something as massive as a crankset to spin forever on the work stand. Pay a bit more for better sealed steel ball bearings, and you'll get the same benefits. Ceramic bearings come with good seals because the market is the type of people who will pay the premium for all this stuff, and part of the marketing appeal of ceramic bearings is that they roll forever on the work stand. The bearings that come standard in bottom brackets are the same bearings you can get out of the McMaster Carr catalogue.
Second, if 'x' is 0.1% of the torque on the crank, it matters not a bit. It is probably less of an effect than the increase in fluid drag from the grease in the bearings that you encounter when it's cold out vs. riding in 90 degree weather. Pros ride them because they have these products thrown at them by sponsers, though maybe the younger ones are spurred on by the placebeo effect benefits. Hey, if you think you should climb faster because of your equipment, you have a vested interest in proving your thinking right, and if this psycological factor makes you faster, then so much the better.
Second, if 'x' is 0.1% of the torque on the crank, it matters not a bit. It is probably less of an effect than the increase in fluid drag from the grease in the bearings that you encounter when it's cold out vs. riding in 90 degree weather. Pros ride them because they have these products thrown at them by sponsers, though maybe the younger ones are spurred on by the placebeo effect benefits. Hey, if you think you should climb faster because of your equipment, you have a vested interest in proving your thinking right, and if this psycological factor makes you faster, then so much the better.
You can argue with me all day long but it will not change the fact that what I am saying is absolutely true. I even qualified the statement by saying that yes, it is probably not significant compared to the total work done, but I will say it again, it is important to some people and therefore there is a market. The difference is measurable, so someone is going to pay for it.
#28
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^^^
So, what you really should do then is to disassemble your BB, remove the cartridge bearings, buy some unsealed bearings from McMaster Carr for $15 for the set (or just use a screwdriver to remove the seals from the current bearings, lob a bunch of heavy grease in them. You will have near zero drag on the crankset on the workstand (it'll spin forever, seriously) and if you change the bearings yearly, you can afford to do this for easily 10 years before you get to the cost of a ceramic bearing set.
Just making the cost/benefit argument. You are making the "benefit at any cost" argument. Okay. But on the cost/benefit scale, ceramic bearings rank pretty much dead last in accessories you can buy for your racing bike. Not even pros would use this stuff if they had to pay full cost for them.
So, what you really should do then is to disassemble your BB, remove the cartridge bearings, buy some unsealed bearings from McMaster Carr for $15 for the set (or just use a screwdriver to remove the seals from the current bearings, lob a bunch of heavy grease in them. You will have near zero drag on the crankset on the workstand (it'll spin forever, seriously) and if you change the bearings yearly, you can afford to do this for easily 10 years before you get to the cost of a ceramic bearing set.
Just making the cost/benefit argument. You are making the "benefit at any cost" argument. Okay. But on the cost/benefit scale, ceramic bearings rank pretty much dead last in accessories you can buy for your racing bike. Not even pros would use this stuff if they had to pay full cost for them.
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#29
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This has been my position from the beginning in my debates on here about ceramic BB's. The OEMs have done a poor job selecting the cartridge bearings they used. They picked the ones they did for a few reasons I am sure:
1. Cheap.
2. Well sealed - will help keep water out.
3. Seal drag is arguably small.
The magnitude of the seal drag and it's overall "power loss" under load is very small. I have read the article where Zinn did testing and basically verified we're talking a very small loss of watts. fractional IIRC.
My other contention though was that even a small loss of power due to poor seal selection/application should be something that could be overcome easily and inexpensively with the correct bearing selection.
Ceramic is not necessary. Feeling faster is in your mind. Can improvements be made? Yes.
Would we even be discussing this or debating it if the difference in price was $10-$15?
...well most of us wouldn't but the poor scientists would be.
1. Cheap.
2. Well sealed - will help keep water out.
3. Seal drag is arguably small.
The magnitude of the seal drag and it's overall "power loss" under load is very small. I have read the article where Zinn did testing and basically verified we're talking a very small loss of watts. fractional IIRC.
My other contention though was that even a small loss of power due to poor seal selection/application should be something that could be overcome easily and inexpensively with the correct bearing selection.
Ceramic is not necessary. Feeling faster is in your mind. Can improvements be made? Yes.
Would we even be discussing this or debating it if the difference in price was $10-$15?
...well most of us wouldn't but the poor scientists would be.
Needless to say, the losses due to seal drag are extremely small. I mean, it is the reason why we now use grease filled, industrial cartridge bearings instead of oil lubricated free bearings for all four bearing locations on a bike. And it's why many pedal bearing systems simply use a journal bearing instead of going through with the expense of using roller or pin bearings.
And, if the price difference were $10-15, then you know that we'd all be rushing out to get this newest latest and greatest thing.
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Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Last edited by Brian Ratliff; 05-20-08 at 11:48 AM.
#30
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Given the issues with resolving losses that are a two or three of orders of magnitude smaller than the input power (the issue is with subtracting two large numbers, each with independent uncertainties, to assertain a very small number - uncertainty might be well more than 100% of the small number), it is doubtful that Zinn could even repeatably resolve fractional watt losses unless he did the measurement very carefully, or with some clever, robust, indirect method of measurement.
Needless to say, the losses due to seal drag are extremely small. I mean, it is the reason why we now use grease filled, industrial cartridge bearings instead of oil lubricated free bearings for all four bearing locations on a bike. And it's why many pedal bearing systems simply use a journal bearing instead of going through with the expense of using roller or pin bearings.
And, if the price difference were $10-15, then you know that we'd all be rushing out to get this newest latest and greatest thing.
Needless to say, the losses due to seal drag are extremely small. I mean, it is the reason why we now use grease filled, industrial cartridge bearings instead of oil lubricated free bearings for all four bearing locations on a bike. And it's why many pedal bearing systems simply use a journal bearing instead of going through with the expense of using roller or pin bearings.
And, if the price difference were $10-15, then you know that we'd all be rushing out to get this newest latest and greatest thing.
I can't remember if Zinn actually did the test himself or if someone else set it up and he observed/reported on the results. The had a pretty decent testing setup from what I recall, but I would be guessing if I tried to recall any of the specific numbers or their repeatability.
The takeaway from that one was that a well worn in Campy voloce or mirage level square taper sealed BB had the lowest drag of all of them. Shouldn't really surprise anyone who understands what's going on, but it seemed to throw a lot of people.
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Last edited by Psimet2001; 05-20-08 at 12:01 PM.
#31
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Indeed.
I can't remember if Zinn actually did the test himself or if someone else set it up and he observed/reported on the results. The had a pretty decent testing setup from what I recall, but I would be guessing if I tried to recall any of the specific numbers or their repeatability.
The takeaway from that one was that a well worn in Campy voloce or mirage level square taper sealed BB had the lowest drag of all of them. Shouldn't really surprise anyone who understands what's going on, but it seemed to throw a lot of people.
I can't remember if Zinn actually did the test himself or if someone else set it up and he observed/reported on the results. The had a pretty decent testing setup from what I recall, but I would be guessing if I tried to recall any of the specific numbers or their repeatability.
The takeaway from that one was that a well worn in Campy voloce or mirage level square taper sealed BB had the lowest drag of all of them. Shouldn't really surprise anyone who understands what's going on, but it seemed to throw a lot of people.
Maybe I should put it back in. Maybe I'll go faster with the lessened drag.
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"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
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"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Last edited by Brian Ratliff; 05-20-08 at 12:27 PM.
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My new SRM is the FSA model. I've had the DA out board BB's, but mostly Campy square taper. Seriously nothing spins better. Currently I have a ceramic BB on the SRM. It does spin better than the FSA standard BB, but not even close to my Chorus BB. I don't run ceramic in my wheels, my Campy and DT Swiss hubs roll pretty damn well on steel bearings.
Last edited by El Diablo Rojo; 05-20-08 at 04:52 PM.
#33
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I've got one of those. After 8 years of service, it was a really free spinning BB. I took that to mean that the seals were worn and the grease was nearly non-existant. When I built up my new cross frame from the old components, I replaced it.
Maybe I should put it back in. Maybe I'll go faster with the lessened drag.
Maybe I should put it back in. Maybe I'll go faster with the lessened drag.
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#34
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I cannot find the article, but here's a post on a forums site about the article, describing the results:
https://forum.slowtwitch.com/Slowtwit...oney_P1624356/
Post #10.
Apparently there was a 0.09W difference between a "FSA Mega EXO steel ball bearing bottom bracket as compared to the same bottom bracket equipped with ceramic bearings". This is out of, what, 200-1500W that a rider will put into the cranks? Not worth paying 10x the price for the ceramic bearings.
https://forum.slowtwitch.com/Slowtwit...oney_P1624356/
Post #10.
Apparently there was a 0.09W difference between a "FSA Mega EXO steel ball bearing bottom bracket as compared to the same bottom bracket equipped with ceramic bearings". This is out of, what, 200-1500W that a rider will put into the cranks? Not worth paying 10x the price for the ceramic bearings.
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"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
#35
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I've got one of those. After 8 years of service, it was a really free spinning BB. I took that to mean that the seals were worn and the grease was nearly non-existant. When I built up my new cross frame from the old components, I replaced it.
Maybe I should put it back in. Maybe I'll go faster with the lessened drag.
Maybe I should put it back in. Maybe I'll go faster with the lessened drag.
I've still got one of the original design X-2's (which needs a special fitting to grease, which I don't have.) They are just about shot, and need grease, but they spin like a top. I'm assuming there's a similar phenomenon at work here?
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Yes indeed....and let me know if you have any X series pedal bodies in good shape or bowties that are good looking that you want to get rid of. My X/2's need a rebuild. Bearings are OK, but I have worn in grooves in the pedal body and bowties that allow for some slop even when using new cleats.
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#37
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I am pretty sure that speedplays have journal bearings (bushings) instead of roller bearings because of the small diameter axle. But yea, it might be a similar (though not quite the same) thing. A journal bearing with no lub might spin well under no load, but under load have a lot of drag. Roller bearings without lub will spin freely under any circumstance, loaded or unloaded, but without a layer of lubricant between the ball and race, it'll tear itself apart pretty quickly.
If they have roller bearings, then yes, it's the same phenomena as with the worn BB.
EDIT: Psimet probably knows what kind of bearings are in there. I use Look, Ultegra, and Eggbeater pedals. Never taken a speedplay pedal apart.
If they have roller bearings, then yes, it's the same phenomena as with the worn BB.
EDIT: Psimet probably knows what kind of bearings are in there. I use Look, Ultegra, and Eggbeater pedals. Never taken a speedplay pedal apart.
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"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
#38
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I am pretty sure that speedplays have journal bearings (bushings) instead of roller bearings because of the small diameter axle. But yea, it might be a similar (though not quite the same) thing. A journal bearing with no lub might spin well under no load, but under load have a lot of drag. Roller bearings without lub will spin freely under any circumstance, loaded or unloaded, but without a layer of lubricant between the ball and race, it'll tear itself apart pretty quickly.
If they have roller bearings, then yes, it's the same phenomena as with the worn BB.
EDIT: Psimet probably knows what kind of bearings are in there. I use Look, Ultegra, and Eggbeater pedals. Never taken a speedplay pedal apart.
If they have roller bearings, then yes, it's the same phenomena as with the worn BB.
EDIT: Psimet probably knows what kind of bearings are in there. I use Look, Ultegra, and Eggbeater pedals. Never taken a speedplay pedal apart.
https://www.speedplay.com/index.cfm?f...on=home.xspecs
The cartridge are internal and do not have seals. Therefore the grease port cover and adapter allowing you to regrease the pedals much like a journal bearing zert.
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#39
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#41
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Go get your legs calibrated first to help reduce the arguements.
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The amount of power saved by ceramic bearings is probably dwarfed by the power lost by the aero drag caused by sitting up for a few seconds or having your collar slightly unzipped - i.e. embedded in the noise of random things you do whilst riding.
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FWI I also torque my crank bolt to 26 lbs not the recommended 30 to get it to spin freely on the MegaExo style BB. With the non ceramic BB at 30lbs it would feel like it was in quicksand.
#44
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No offense, but I think that might just be the fact that you spent a whole lot of money on a BB and are excited about it talking.
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