What are the exact tools that I need to remove a Shimano casette and re-install it. Do I need a special wrench? Links for the tools would be great.

chain whip and lockring tool/wrench.

Here's what I use:

(1) Chain whip, see https://www.parktool.com/products/det...at=4&item=SR-1
(2) Lockring tool, see https://www.parktool.com/products/det...at=4&item=FR-5
(3) An adjustable wrench, see your local hardware store.

Step 1: Remove wheel.
Step 2: Remove skewer from wheel.
Step 3: Put lockring tool onto cassette lockring, and place the wheel's skewer into the lockring tool/cassette.
Step 4: Put chain whip on cassette to prevent it from rotating (see the chain whip's directions for more info)
Step 5: Turn lockring tool counter-clockwise with adjustable wrench, and the lockring will come off. You can now access the cassette.

To put the lockring back on, use the lockring tool and adjustable wrench, and turn clockwise.

Thanks for the quick replies. Does the lockring need to be torqued? Am I better off with the park lockring tool or the one in the picture of the forst post. I appreciate this.

Always observe torque specifications printed on the things you are turning. The cassette lockring on Ultegra and Dura-Ace cassettes is 40 N-m.

Doesn't matter what tools you use...

As Botto said, it doesn't matter which tool, they all serve the same purpose.

When you tighten the lockring just tighten till you hear a crunching sound.

It's a pretty simple task, welcome to servicing your own bike.

The Park lockring tool is a little easier to use than a lockring tool with an adjustable wrench. Depending of the freehub body, the tool may not sit in real deeply, and can slip out as you're trying to get everything set up (whip on cog, tool in the lockring, adjustable wrench on tool.

One way to deal with that is use a QR skewer screwed in over top of the lockring tool (leaving room for it to back out into.) That way the lockring tool is held in place as you get a wrench on it.

Most lockrings have a torque spec, seem to remember something around 40 newton meters. I prefer the park lock ring tool without the handle, and use a large adjustable for it. That way you can use your rear skewer to hold it in place so it won't fall or slip out of the lock ring and ruin the splines when you really torque down on it (40 nm is a lot of torque)

I give mine a nice firm turn with a 12" adjustable wrench, however the heck much torque that is, never broke a lockring, or a freehub body, had one come loose, or not been able to get it back off.

This is not one of those things that requires precision. Make it firm because you don't want it loosening, just remember someday you're going to have to reverse the process.

What is with all this torque talk? Just put the thing on, turn it, and if it doesn't turn take a mallet to the wrench.

I prefer this Pedro's cog wrench over a chain whip.

Buy the cheapest lockring tool you can find. They all work easily and perfectly. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten. You definitely tighten well beyond the point you hear "crunching". I've tightened "good and tight" with my big adjustable jaw wrench and never had a problem. I then checked with a torque wrench (which of course required me to find a large socket to fit the lockring tool), and found I was quite a bit UNDER the specified torque. I don't believe it's a big deal either way. Just don't be too gentle or too gorilla-like.

Having the right tools is great. I had been changing cassettes without a chain whip for a couple years. Got tired of it, real pain in the hands. Couldn't see spending the money on one. Took an old chain and an extra pedal wrench and turned on the welder. Now I have a chain whip and a pedal wrench in one.

That sounds like a great tool, too bad they don't market it.

But just so people don't think they have to be a welder to get these tools affordably:

Lock ring tool - <$5
Pedal tool - $10-15
Chain whip - $10-15

I think I spent $25 for all three. Definitely worth investing in rather than messing with make-do tools.

40 N-m is a fairly stiff amount of torque. You can get away with less than that, but you really need to go a bit beyond the "crunchy" sounds when tightening. The lockring gets "crunchy" when it first starts to engage and that isn't quite enough to make the lockring lock.

I also happened to have found a 15/16 / 1" combo wrench while riding . What a find. the 15/16 fits Shimano and 1" fits Campy. I have been planning on but havent gotten around to welding the cassette tools to some spare box tube steel i have around. I should make an extra chain whip also.

They do. I saw a combination pedal wrench and chain whip in my LBS the other day, don't recall the brand.

A good tool is a great pleasure for a lifetime. Then you pass it on.