Position - Flame away
#1
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Position - Flame away
I got a pretty good picture at my last event from the side. Just looking for comments on my position.
I still struggle with pain behind my right knee at times (tight hamstring) but I have been managing this mostly by stretching alot more before and after rides and at other times.
I still struggle with pain behind my right knee at times (tight hamstring) but I have been managing this mostly by stretching alot more before and after rides and at other times.
#2
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Bend your freaking elbows and flip it.
Move your saddle forward a bit as well, you may be tweaking out your knees.
Move your saddle forward a bit as well, you may be tweaking out your knees.
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#7
Le Crocodile
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I can't really tell without film footage, but one glaring issue is the arms (as posted above), you are burning a ton of juice keeping them locked. Be conscious of your wrists, move your arms so that the wrist is not angled so bad.
I just corrected a rider's numb hands issue by moving his brake levers, so hand position is extremely important.
Lastly, you do not appear to be relaxed at all. Easy fixes.
Good riding.
I just corrected a rider's numb hands issue by moving his brake levers, so hand position is extremely important.
Lastly, you do not appear to be relaxed at all. Easy fixes.
Good riding.
#8
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Looks like the TT is a bit short (rather long stem already). Also, as others said, you look stiff with elbows locked.
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#13
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It's hard to tell, but it sure looks like your saddle is too low as well. I agree that you need to bend your arms (aren't your shoulders/neck/wrists sore?) but it looks like if you did your elbows would hit your knees, that bike looks much too small.
#14
Making a kilometer blurry
I keep mine on the high side, so that saddle looks low to me. Absolutely bend the arms, rotate the hands out so the wrists are straight. Make sure your bars aren't tipped too high: in the drops, with forearms horizontal, see if the pressure on your hands is even top to bottom, and rotate the bars to correct any uneven pressure (they look tipped up too high to me).
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Looked like a 110 or 120 to me. Must be the photo angle. I'd go with a longer stem then. OTOH, if a 100 felt too long, I don't know...
#17
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I am in the that bike is too small camp.
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#18
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Not an expert, but bike looks too small. Raise the seat, flip the stem, and get more flexible. The more you ride the more flexible you'll get.
#21
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According to the bike shop fitting, it is the right size.......
I have lost about 30lbs since I got this bike and I am more flexible now. Maybe I will rotate the bars down a bit where they should be and try that for a while.
To unlock my elbows, should I be turning my elbows in and having them point down toward the road or just flex them a bit to the outside.
I have lost about 30lbs since I got this bike and I am more flexible now. Maybe I will rotate the bars down a bit where they should be and try that for a while.
To unlock my elbows, should I be turning my elbows in and having them point down toward the road or just flex them a bit to the outside.
#23
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#24
Senior Member
Definitely raise the seat a bit. A gradual 1/8" per week for 3 or 4 weeks will feel the best. (so 3/8-1/2" total)
Your arms may be locked because they are supporting too much of your weight. This could be because your saddle is too far forward and your arms have to do more work. This could also cause shoulder tension and lower-back pain. Slide your saddle back until you can lean forward no-handed without falling forward off the seat. (Try to get close to your normal riding body angle when doing this, no need to go too far) This position will keep the weight off your arms/shoulders/lower back and allow you to ride with less strain. If you can't get the seat back far enough to accomplish this, consider a further set back seatpost or larger bike frame. By moving the saddle back you will get more stretched out without swapping or flipping stems. (flipping or lengthening the stem without shifting the seat back will only exacerbate your problems) Also be aware that shifting the saddle back will be like raising your seatpost.
Your arms may be locked because they are supporting too much of your weight. This could be because your saddle is too far forward and your arms have to do more work. This could also cause shoulder tension and lower-back pain. Slide your saddle back until you can lean forward no-handed without falling forward off the seat. (Try to get close to your normal riding body angle when doing this, no need to go too far) This position will keep the weight off your arms/shoulders/lower back and allow you to ride with less strain. If you can't get the seat back far enough to accomplish this, consider a further set back seatpost or larger bike frame. By moving the saddle back you will get more stretched out without swapping or flipping stems. (flipping or lengthening the stem without shifting the seat back will only exacerbate your problems) Also be aware that shifting the saddle back will be like raising your seatpost.
#25
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it really is hard to make any judgements with all those logos everywhere....but then again , this is bike forum where uninformed judgements rule the day/week/month/year. from the side you do look a little stiff. And those 'bows seem locked. I don't know how people can talk about the saddle position, I am unable to detect any saddle on the bike.
Very brave of you to open yourself up to the BF Hen Party.
Very brave of you to open yourself up to the BF Hen Party.