2007 Schwinn LeTour with Ritchey Biomax II handlebar installed
 

After repeatedly adjusted the stock handlebar on the 2007 Schwinn LeTour, I can't get my wrist to stop hurting. Then I did some more research and took some measurements and realized I have a 38cm shoulder and the stock handlebar is 44cm. I realized a new handlebar is needed to make the bike fits me.

I got the handlebar at www.aebike.com, it was the usual quick turnaround. I ordered it on a Sunday and I got it on Friday. I paid about $61.49 out the door. Installation of the bar was very easy, and I wrapped the new bar with some cheapo Forte Gel Tape. Nothing fancy but looks ok.

I also took the opportunity to transplant the Brooks saddle from my mountain bike to the new bike.

Here are some pictures:
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/hyau/Bik...veside_Exp.jpg

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/hyau/Bik...dlebar_Exp.jpg

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/hyau/Bik...ntview_Exp.jpg


This is my first attempt at wrapping a handlebar, I think I did ok. Both sides are not quite even.
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/hyau/Bik...ockpit_Exp.jpg

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/hyau/Bik...Saddle_Exp.jpg

Review of the Ritchey Biomax II handlebar:
The handlebar is awesome. Now I can ride comfortably without my wrist hurting. The construction is very solid and it's much lighter than the stock handlebar. However, due to the location of the thumb actuated shifters of the Sora group, I adjusted the handlebar in a position most suitable for riding on the hood, and that sacrifice some usability for the drops. However, I can still ride in the drops and reach for the brakes well during downhill dashes.

I am now a complete convert of the Brooks saddle. The stock saddle (Selle San Marco Ischia) was quite comfortable with bike shorts, but rode about 14 miles on a commute without bike shorts and it was quite painful. Now, with the Brooks installed, the difference was between stadium bench and a nice office chair. The first time I sat back onto the Brooks, I just go "oooooooohhhhh":)

Due to my busy work schedule, I just get to ride it 10 miles at a time for about 40 minutes twice a week. The bike is now real joy to ride. The drivetrain and brake pad is still a little left to desire but for $412 for the bike and about $112 worth of new parts (new handler, stem and pedals). It's not bad of a deal.

Where are the tri-bars?

you should have gone in the other direction, so that twisting the grips would tighten the tape instead of loosening it.

Why are your brifters turned so far in??

You know when you put that saddle on your bike, you modified the height and fore/aft position (in addition to your handlebars) so you hbar change may have less of an impact on your painful wrists now than if you left your old seat on.

ParkTools has a good writeup on how to wrap handlebar tape.

I thought the brifters should be in-line with angle of the hood part of the handlebar. The camera exaggerated the "turn-in" further. I had adjusted the brifters back out a bit since.

I had wrist pain before the handlebar swap partly because the handlebar is 44cm and my shoulder is only measures about 39cm. Also, the reach for that bar is a bit too much. I did adjust the saddle for my legs after I install the new saddle. Now the wrist pain is largely gone. Before, I keep "tossing and turning" all over the bar, which is to a degree what one suppose to do as to take advantage of multiple hand positions offered by dropbars. However, I shouldn't need to change hand position all the time for a 6 mile ride. Now, with the new handlebar, I can stay in pretty much the same place all the time for a 10 mile ride.

I did compromise the position to be most comfortable when riding on the hood because of the way the Sora group works. One of the shifter button is operated by the thumb so I ride mostly on the hood. If anyone have any "best of both worlds" solution, or adjusting the brifters position so it's comfortable for both on the hood and on the drops, please let me know.

Thanks.