Changing cassettes
 

What tools do I need to accomplish this....chain whip and cassette tool? Are the cassette tools universal or specific for 9/10 speeds? I assume the chain whip is universal.

Chain whip, cassette tool, and a wrench. I've used the same tool for 9 and 10 speed.

To remove, chain whip and cassette lockring tool. To install, just the lockring tool. The tool is different for Shimano/SRAM and Campy I believe.

correct.

I believe the Shimano cassette tool will work with either lockring, the 9 or 10, they may even use the same lockring.
Of course Campy has a different tool specific for their lockrings.
A chain whip is used to hold the cassette in place while you unscrwew the lockring. No other tools needed except a crescent wrench so you will have leverage to unscrew ring.
Will take less than 5 minutes. Just make sure you put all you spacers in the proper place.

A wrench is helpful if the lockring is too tight.

As far as I know the chainwhip is universal. Anybody grease the threads on the lockring?

Thanks!!

Torque wrench helps if you have access to it - you have to be able to tighten the lockring on the new cassette to 50Nm, which is pretty tight and more than I considered enough the first time I did it.

I do need a torque wrench. Have not been able to find one locally that reads in NM. Where can I get one for a reasonable price?

The torque spec is "crank on it till you get a clicking sensation" alternatively defined as "give it some elbow grease."
I don't understand the need for a torque wrench on something you're supposed to crank down tight, and can't really overtorque.

Well perhaps not for that application but surely a torque wrench is usefull elsewhere on the bike.

I have freakishly strong hands...no wrench necessary. :D

Not me, 6'5" and born with terribly small girlish hands. embarassing...

No torque wrench needed, crank till you hear the click.

9 and 10 speed Shimano use the same tool.

A trick I use that I picked up at a bike shop is to put the cassette lockring tool in a vise, then place the wheel on the tool, and use the chainwhip. I don't always use it, but if the vise is on the bench, why not?

In case you don't know, you probably should replace the chain at the same time.

Tools
 

You'll need a chain whip and a FR-7 Park tool. Bicycle.com has a good video about chainging out cassettes.

I get by with just the cassette tool. Instead of chainwhip I grab the cassette with a pair of channel locks and a rag.

It works. But you have to be good with channel locks (ie know which way automatically grips under torque) and careful to keep from shaving down a sprocket tooth.

You don't need the chainwhip if you have an old chain. Put the tool in the vise facing up, put the wheel and cassette on the tool, wrap the chain around the cogs, put your hand through the spokes and wrap the chain around your hand (use a rag), grab the rim and turn the wheel counter clockwise. It helps to have the chain in position to pull as you turn. You've basically created a chain whip with your hand. It isn't even as hard as this sounds.

We used to have a guy named Hank at the local gas company.

When tightening 4" threaded steel pipe into a fitting, we used 4' pipe wrenches with 6' cheaters.

We'd tighten it as far as humanly possible, and then tell Hank to take it around one more time.

Hank would grab the wrench, sans cheater, and do as requested to line it up.

I think he could strip just about anything.............

I did not say it was "needed", I said "helps". The torque spec for Campy cassettes is 50Nm, if you use a torque wrench you'll see the relatively big gap from the start of the clicking sensation to the specified torque.

50Nm is about 37ft lb. There are many places that sell inexpensive tools on the web, I got mine at Sears.

Mine has a conversion table on the back of the manual. To convert from lb.ft to n.m, multiply by 1.356

Whoops, I had to edit it. I should wear my glasses when reading little print.

my lockrings all say 40Nm. 28 foot pounds. Do not overtighten it.

Why?

If you're replacing a WORN OUT cassette, then yes, chain and probably chain rings as well.

Changing cassette sizes for better gearing... you don't have to replace chain, but you should verify that you have enough slack to get into the big/big combo and that you still have tension in the small/small combo.