I think the Look is the stiffer of the 2. I have heard some comments on the SLX being flexy, though I have both and have never had a problem. If you want to keep it stiff and still drop weight, go for an Alpha Q- you can often find them on Ebay for less than $100.

holy schniekies the Look fork is expensive!

+1
An Alpha Q fork might drop a bit of weight, but at 250 bucks, is it worth it?

No, my fork is fine.

All of the weight weenie upgrades have been replacements for parts that got moved onto different bikes/frames - I think the only WW part that I bought purely for weight purposes was the KCNC brakes and skewers.

I'm not going to replace the fork just to save some weight.

Yeah, 7.3 is definitely a respectably light race rig, even light for a bike you're not racing. I've found that my race bike is actually one of my heavier bikes, if only by a bit.

My Pegoretti is just over 16lbs with heavy Zonda wheels and aluminum bar and stem. It's possible to build a 15lb steel bike.. It won't make me faster though. It's only a 49cm frame and no PT but still lite enough for steel.

Incorrect. http://www.velonews.com/article/73034/
And I think he has reduced the weight somewhat since this was published :eek:

I have to ADD ~550g to my ww build to get it to the legal limit. Like yours it started out as kind of a fun hobby. I don't believe weight makes that much of a difference....

I know weight doesn't make any difference. The biggest performance booster on my bike is the SRM - and even that is a useless tool unless you know how to properly utilize it.

Heh, nice!

I wouldn't be surprised if mine came in at ~19-20 lbs :innocent:

That bike needs a Brooks Team Pro as an ironic statement. Plus, when you ride a team pro, no one will chase your breakaways.

I've seen a Mondonico lugged steel bike that was 17pounds with no out of the ordinary parts at all. My steel bike is 24 pounds in race trim....

You could probably shave quite a few grams by switching from the Open Pave EVO-CGs. I love these tires, especially this time of year, but they're not light. For a light/stiff crankset, check out the new Easton EC90 crankset, a teammate has been using it and has good things to say about it.

I have a setup a little like yours and mine weights 17.2lbs. Its a 1386g aluminum/ carbon frame with full Dura Ace 7800 and Ksyrium SL's. And I even have a lighter Ritchey Pro fork. Even though my frame is 100g heaver than yours it just blows my mind how it could weight 16.1lbs.

mine is pretty close to yours, but with campy centaur.. I'm at 15.8 lbs...

very nice!

He's got an SRM, he's not swapping cranks ;)

Though I agree that opportunities for weight savings exist there.

Picture!

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned I could lose a couple grams by getting rid of the blinky mount on the seatpost :)

The bike has a lot of lightweight parts as it, its a really solid build! I agree the SRM is well worth the weight penalty.....It would probably cost a lot of $$ to grt it to the weight limit. Just playing around here are some ideas.



Handlebars: 3T Ergosum Pro (AL) Easton SLX carbon ~30g
Bar Tape: Specialized S-Wrap DEDA ~ 20-30g
Shifters: 2007 SRAM Force SRAM Red ~20g
Tires: Vittoria Open Pave Evo-CG Continental supersonics ~180g
Cages: Tacx Tao (AL) generic carbon ~35g
Seatpost: KCNC Ti Pro Lite 27.2x350mm Cut ~15g
Saddle: Specialized Toupe Team, 130mm width Selle SLR ~15g
Seatpost Collar: Generic Cannondale M2racer ~10g
Rear Derailer: 2007 SRAM Force SRAM Red <30g
Chain: SRAM PC-1090 KMC X10sl ~30g
Pedals: Look KeO Carbon Ti Speedplay Ti ~30g

No tubes listed but Performance LunarLite ~60g

Thats about 480g....MINUS the blinky light....SCORE!

I only mentioned becuase he asked for lightweight crank suggestions. I wouldn't swap my SRM for any other crankset either :thumb:

I snapped a quick pic of it in its current setup... im debating putting on the kcnc brakes... might save them for race season... anybody have advice.. is the braking power ok?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...8_edited-1.jpg

strip the paint and decals. :-)

@dmotoguy... I would not use the KCNC brakes. Centaur brakes are so good. Maybe you could lose a little weight with Mavic SSC calipers? If you wanted to lose a bit more weight, you could swap the Centaur chain rings. I think they used ED rather than UD rings on those. You could buy Chorus rings or go all pro and use TA Vento/Horus or Stronglight CT2 rings. The Stronglight rings weigh 76g and 35g according to their website....

I use the KCNC brakes, and at 150 pounds I can easily lock up both wheels with Kool STop salmon pads.

Very Nice Build BD, especially with the SRM cranks

I have a C'Dale six13 that I built up over the better part of the last 2 months. so far it comes in at 17.42 Kg… not an official weight weenie, but I’m going for durability and overall ride comfort…. But like you, I am starting to get the WW bug.

2005 Six13 (56)
C'Dale Slice SI fork (made by Time, surprising lightweight at 310g with alloy drops
DT Swiss RR 1.1 (28 front, 32 rear with Sapim CX-rays) heavy at 1500+ grams, but a very nice ride for training and pretty stiff for climbing.
White Industries Hubs (H2)
2008 Record Shifters
2008 Record Brakes
2008 Record FD
2008 Record RD
KCNC RD Pulleys (11teeth, 10 teeth, with ceramic bearings)
2008 Chorus Compact (50/36 with Stronglight "ceramic" coated chain rings)
Centaur Cassette (11-23, 11-25
Thomson Masterpiece (250mm, uncut)
Thomson Top Cap
Ritchey WCS stem (100mm -17)
Ritchey WCS Bars (44cm classic)
Dura-ace "SPD-SL" pedals
Jagwire "racer" cables
Tacx Tao cages (x2)
Specialized Toupe saddle (143 "unpadded")
Rox rim tape
Conti GP400 "s", also have michelin pro 3's, Ultremo R's and Vittoria Evo Corsa CX)
Michelin tubes
GARMIN 705, with speed & cadence sensor

I could easily lose a lot of weight with lighter wheels (600 grams) , KCNC brakes (100 grams), lighter cassette (30 grams), and lighter tires (50 grams) (I have Veloflex Record Tires for special occasions) ; )

Overall do you like your KCNC brakes? I would love to get a set in anodized red, almost bought a set on ebay (brand new) for $249 but with getting married in less then 25 days, the money can be better spend elsewhere.

BTW, like someone else said, the stronglight chain rings (CT2 Cermic/Teflon treated) would be an easy way to drop some grams…. I forget the exact weight, but they were around 10-20 grams lighter then the chorus rings that were on my crank set (originally 50/34 now 50/36) and they are a LOT cheaper then replacement campy rings.

Fixed.

correct me if I am wrong but the UCI limit is WITHOUT bottle cages and computer.

takes it down more if I am right.

LOL, very nice. But considering where I live (terrible pot holed, tar-chipped, cracked roads) a nice set of handbuilts is not only stiff for climbing but rolls over anything I can put it up against.

I would love a lighweight set of Carbon hoops, but until that is the only factor holding me back then I'll pass for now. :)

I have that scale and find it inaccurate....I'm using the Park Tool scale that I mount to my workstand to measure the bike weights.

Those tires are portly compared to Ultremo R. What tubes are you running? I use the Performance bike Luna Lites. 47grams I think.

does the scale read high or low?

I think I have the lunar lite tubes in there.

Like I said he weight goes down a bit with the 404s

47 grams for tubes is scary light, I'm not saying that is wrong but even latex tubes are not THAT light.

The lightest Butyl tubes I've seen are Conti's Supersonics at 50 some grams, and I've found them to be WAY to fragile for anything other then glass smooth TT's.

I use Michelin Butyls (for training and winter rides) and Michelin Ultra lites butyl or Michelin's Latex for races.

I've also had good luck with Kenda's ultra lights.

FWIW, I use a Alpine Ultimate scale: for large items like complete bikes, tires, etc. Not as accurate for little things as a table top scale but I am not as diseased as some weight weenies. ;)