efaust

I saw a pretty decent deal on a powertap sl2.4 on amazon with a DT 1.1 rim for 1,175.00 plus shipping. I realize these hubs would have to be updated to work with the ANT+ stuff.

I'm wondering what anyone thinks about this. I was looking at getting a PRO+ (2009) for 1,195.00 (hub and computer only) and then having the wheel build around it. Even with the $99 cost of the update, it would still be cheaper to get the older SL2.4 hub and wheel combination.


Anyone know of the major differences between the SL2.4 and the new (2009) PRO+ hubs?

thanks,
efaust

wfrogge

The only difference is that the new stuff is ANT+ compatible. Myself im sticking with the 2.4 wired hub

waterrockets 

It's the data you're after. I'm not up on all the differences, but since you can go ANT+Sport with the 2.4, you should be good to go there.

USCswimming

The 2009 PRO+ is basically the 2008 2.4 SL with a few minor changes. They use the same axle & flange distance as the 08's. The 09 weighs 466 grams (+40 to 50 grams) and I would assume this is because they ditched the carbon window and it now looks like a metal hub. The PRO+ does have the ANT+ SPORT. Those are the only differences.

USCswimming

The 2009 powertaps are already shipping to dealers. So there really isn't that much of a wait anymore. I have an SL+ that should arrive today or tomorrow.

pharding

If you can afford it, I would get the 2009 model because they make improvements each year for a reason.

efaust

Thanks for the replys. Other than the change from the carbon window and the ANT+, I don't get, from the replys that I've gotten, that there's much of a difference. Even if I wait for the '09, I'll still be paying that much more for a complete wheel for essentially the same hub (minus the immediate ANT+ compatability).

CastIron

Currently, I've sourced a complete 2.4SL wheel (DT 1.1) for $1008.

Though a good deal, I'm personally waiting to find the same features for less after these things are out there and stock starts sitting on shelves.

The ANT+ might be on a late production '08 if I understand correctly. As to the hub changes, in some case we're talking a handful of grams and aesthetics. BFD.

waterrockets 

Dude, project update (and thread diversion). This is the first cabinet (the rest are being assembled -- all carcass pieces are prepared). No stain or finish yet, and the bottom drawer front is just taped in place for the photo (I may change the way I'm attaching...). This one has exposed screws because the sides will be covered. Note continuous grain on stiles from top to bottom:



Full extension hidden glides (Blumotion, of course). Dovetails front and back:

jrobe

"they make improvements each year for a reason."


The main reason is so that they can increase the price. My 3 year old Powertap Pro still works perfect and tells me everything I need to know.

Booger

We can hope.

grinn253

fwiw i received a SL+ & Elite+ a few days before Christmas. They are mated to a DT1.1 & Zipp 404 rim .

I got them from wheelbuilder.com , he was able to customize the builds to whatever specs we felt were efficient for the riding that I specified (Cross & Road). Cool stuff!

CastIron

Outstanding! Excellent job with the grain matching on the panels. Dovetails by hand or machine?
Sooner or later I'll have my new bed pics uploaded. What a monster. What finish you thinking?

waterrockets 

Thanks man. Looking forward to seeing your project.

Yeah, I had to buy a dovetail jig for this project. Before this, I've only ever hand cut them. I'm looking at 26 drawers, so hand cut isn't practical.

SWMBO is choosing the color. Staining cherry is TOUGH. Blotchy as a teenager who eats too much chocolate. I think I've found a finishing schedule that will work though: spit coat of shellac, followed by a tinted shellac (Trans-Tint dye), then a nice wipe-on finish (can't remember the name). So far, that works great, wiping on the shellac, but I don't think I can do it on a large panel. I'll have to give it a try with my spray gun, and that may lead me to hitting Craigslist for an HVLP rig...

We're probably going to end up with a little darker than just aged cherry, like this.

CastIron

That's a nice finish.

As to shellac, I screwed the pooch using it on my gig. Thin it by a significant margin and work fast. Lesson learned in many hours of rubbing with steel wool. That stuff is unforgiving. Danish oil under poly would be my hindsight choice. I got chased out of the garage (40k btu heater wasn't enough to glue or finish) and had to 'make it work'.

I have two planes from LN on the way for the nightstands as a reward for the trouble.

waterrockets 

Crap. Yeah, I've heard the shellac will dry in the air on the way to the piece. Stupid alcohol.

So you'd tint danish oil then?

Congrats on the planes. Your triceps will love them (so I hear...). LN is putting on a hand tool show here, where you can go try them out. I'm avoiding it as much as possible

CastIron

No tinting. It's actually pretty close to amber shellac. And cherry will darken. And yeah, the irony is I was using un-cut shellac in a 55* basement. It still dried in minutes. Thinned in a warm environment? Good grief.

Whatever you do, do test pieces. I had a dozen different pieces for the missus from scrap. Put one piece in the sun un-treated for a few days, too.

waterrockets 

Yeah, I whipped up a BLO/Turpentine/Shellac mix and hit a piece with that, and it was really pretty, but too light. I tanned it out in the sun for a week and it finally stopped getting darker. Still not quite dark enough. I wonder if I can talk her into just an amber and dealing with the lighter color. The cherry is such nice looking wood on its own.

I've been using test pieces, and jointing off failed stain attempts. One that started out 4/4 got down to 1/8", and I wasn't comfortable jointing it any more