how do you find out the grade of a hill?
#1
can I haz bicycle?
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how do you find out the grade of a hill?
any websites that will tell you what the grade of a local hill is?
I'm curious about these...
juanita drive; kirkland, wa
116th ave; kirkland, wa
market st; kirkland, wa
I'm curious about these...
juanita drive; kirkland, wa
116th ave; kirkland, wa
market st; kirkland, wa
#2
Uber Goober
You might try going to www.mapmyride.com, put short sections of the hill in as routes, then check elevations for them.
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You might try going to www.mapmyride.com, put short sections of the hill in as routes, then check elevations for them.
You can try asking some local bike clubs. They may have calculated the gradients. If not, it is easy enough to do yourself if you have an altimeter. Cheap altimeters are not 100% accurate, but they are much better than mapmyride.com
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Simonds road is an 11% grade if you climb from west to east. I know that is steeper than Juanita Drive and Market Street, I am not sure how it would compare to 116th ave.
Here is a simple formula I found at: https://www.1728.com/gradient.htm
Calculating Grade From A Map One way to calculate the grade of a hill is with a map that shows the altitudes of locations.
For example, you've measured out a distance of 3 miles (run) with a change in altitude of 396 feet (rise).
First, the units must be made consistent, so we convert 3 miles to 15,840 feet.
grade = (rise ÷ run) * 100 grade = (396 ÷ 15,840) * 100 = 2.5%
https://www.bikely.com is a great place to map your routes get distances and elevations.
Here is a simple formula I found at: https://www.1728.com/gradient.htm
Calculating Grade From A Map One way to calculate the grade of a hill is with a map that shows the altitudes of locations.
For example, you've measured out a distance of 3 miles (run) with a change in altitude of 396 feet (rise).
First, the units must be made consistent, so we convert 3 miles to 15,840 feet.
grade = (rise ÷ run) * 100 grade = (396 ÷ 15,840) * 100 = 2.5%
https://www.bikely.com is a great place to map your routes get distances and elevations.
Last edited by buzzedbiker; 02-19-09 at 02:11 AM. Reason: Added Bikely
#5
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install a VDO MC1.0 cycle computer. cycle to the bottom of the hill of interest. reset the computer. cycle to the top of the hill. check average grade.
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Get a protractor and string, measure the angle of elevation and use the distance you travel on the road to calculate your distance x over distance y. Simple trig.
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The elevation data in mapmyride.com is so sparse that it is completely worthless for hills that are less than a couple of miles long.
You can try asking some local bike clubs. They may have calculated the gradients. If not, it is easy enough to do yourself if you have an altimeter. Cheap altimeters are not 100% accurate, but they are much better than mapmyride.com
You can try asking some local bike clubs. They may have calculated the gradients. If not, it is easy enough to do yourself if you have an altimeter. Cheap altimeters are not 100% accurate, but they are much better than mapmyride.com
Also, the "Terrain Map" view shows the hills shaded in, and has simplified contour lines, too. But these are estimated contours.
#11
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Bicycleclimbs.com has all the popular Seattle area hills, but the site seems to be having problems right now. When working, it is an excellent resource.
I can't recall the grades for Market and Juanita, but they aren't that much. I do them in my 50t ring.
I can't recall the grades for Market and Juanita, but they aren't that much. I do them in my 50t ring.
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#13
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The worst is when I know I'm going up a slight incline, but I look down and the Garmin says -1%. Bull**** that I'm going downhill!
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My garmin has been fairly consistent but there is a bit of a lag. I can't remember if changes in pressure due to a storm cause issues or not. It has been a while.
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Are you talking about on the display as you ride, or looking at the file after the fact.
I'd agree the display isn't very accurate over short distances particularly. However, looking at profiles after the ride, it seems to be pretty accurate for grades of any length.
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Most likely just the lag effect.
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My Garmin does it for me now. Prior to getting it, I'd use Google earth.
If you hover the mouse over any spot on the map, it'll give you the elevation. So to measure hill grade, record the elevation at the bottom and top of any climb or section of a climb. Then use the ruler tool to figure out the distance you've traveled.
From there, just do the math. Divide the feet of ascent by the distance you've covered in feet, and you've got your percentage.
Not perfect, but pretty accurate way to do it short of breaking out the surveying equipment.
If you hover the mouse over any spot on the map, it'll give you the elevation. So to measure hill grade, record the elevation at the bottom and top of any climb or section of a climb. Then use the ruler tool to figure out the distance you've traveled.
From there, just do the math. Divide the feet of ascent by the distance you've covered in feet, and you've got your percentage.
Not perfect, but pretty accurate way to do it short of breaking out the surveying equipment.
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I am talking about after the fact, though I am comparing "max grade" readings. I think that maybe since the Garmin records data every few seconds, it captures different parts of the hill on every ride. I am aware of the lag when looking at data on-the-fly.
Are you talking about on the display as you ride, or looking at the file after the fact.
I'd agree the display isn't very accurate over short distances particularly. However, looking at profiles after the ride, it seems to be pretty accurate for grades of any length.
I'd agree the display isn't very accurate over short distances particularly. However, looking at profiles after the ride, it seems to be pretty accurate for grades of any length.
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https://www.bicycleclimbs.com/
https://www.bicycleclimbs.com/ClimbLists.aspx
has all the big climbs in Seattle
https://www.bicycleclimbs.com/ClimbLists.aspx
has all the big climbs in Seattle