Paint Thinner + Mobil 1 = $$Chain Lube$$
#1
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From: Union City/Davis, ca
Bikes: CAAD9 6
Paint Thinner + Mobil 1 = $$Chain Lube$$
So I've read that paint thinner and mobil 1 synthetic oil is a good lubricant to use but I haven't tried it myself yet. How many of you use this mixture and how would you compare it to other lubes? Is it just as good as other lubes or is it just a cheap alternative? What dilution ratio do you use?
#5
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From: Union City/Davis, ca
Bikes: CAAD9 6
well thats the thing, if this is really just as good or even better than most bicycle specific lubes out there then I'd use it but if there is anything wrong with it then I don't mind spending $7 for a bottle of lube at a bike shop. I currently use phil's tenacious oil, but it's very hard to find, I ordered it online a long time ago but am running out.
#7
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From: Union City/Davis, ca
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Maybe I got it wrong? I thought I read mineral spirits, and isn't paint thinner the same as mineral spirits? I'm not %100 sure if they are the same thing or not.
The idea is that the paint thinner thins the thick synthetic oil and allows it to soak into the chain and once the oil gets inside the chain the paint thinner just evaporates away.
The idea is that the paint thinner thins the thick synthetic oil and allows it to soak into the chain and once the oil gets inside the chain the paint thinner just evaporates away.
#8
ah.... sure.
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Whidbey Island WA
Bikes: Specialized.... schwinn..... enough to fill my needs..
wouldn't the thinner just be a carrier for the motor oil? It would seem it would just thin it out for application. I would think it would evaporate after application and leave the motor oil behind but in a thin coat.
thinner doesn't last long on it's own when exposed to the air.
maybe i'm missing something.
thinner doesn't last long on it's own when exposed to the air.
maybe i'm missing something.
#10
Maybe I got it wrong? I thought I read mineral spirits, and isn't paint thinner the same as mineral spirits? I'm not %100 sure if they are the same thing or not.
The idea is that the paint thinner thins the thick synthetic oil and allows it to soak into the chain and once the oil gets inside the chain the paint thinner just evaporates away.
The idea is that the paint thinner thins the thick synthetic oil and allows it to soak into the chain and once the oil gets inside the chain the paint thinner just evaporates away.
Anyhow I usually use some stuff like what Pepper posted. Cheap spray on lube from Home Depot/Lowe's/etc. has worked fine for me so far.
#11
Time for a change.

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From: 6 miles inland from the coast of Sussex, in the South East of England
Bikes: Dale MT2000. Bianchi FS920 Kona Explosif. Giant TCR C. Boreas Ignis. Pinarello Fp Uno.
Chain lube is cheap- Comes in a handy applicator bottle and works. If you want cheap- Buy it from Wally World Stores.
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#12
Dough Mestique
Joined: Feb 2009
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Just use something. More important that you clean your chain before you apply whatever you use.
Chain lube is like a religion. There is no truth, only belief. The only actual fact regarding chain lube I'm aware of is that dirty chains wear out faster than clean chains no matter the lube..
BL
Chain lube is like a religion. There is no truth, only belief. The only actual fact regarding chain lube I'm aware of is that dirty chains wear out faster than clean chains no matter the lube..
BL
#13
Medicinal Cyclist
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Mohawk Valley/Adks, NYS
Bikes: 2003 Klein Q Carbon Race; 2009 Giant OCR-1
I'm going to try the mineral spirits/chain saw chain oil combination. I've forgotten what the ratio is, but I believe the oil needs to be thinned down enough to penetrate into the links. My plan is to have two chains with SRAM links, then simply change the chain and clean the cassette as needed. Meanwhile, the other chain gets cleaned with mineral spirits and soaked in a bath of the mix mentioned above. Take it out, let it drip dry, wipe it off, and you're ready to go with a clean, lubed chain.
If this makes any sense, would it be a good idea to put some oil into the cleaning solution, too?
If this makes any sense, would it be a good idea to put some oil into the cleaning solution, too?
#14
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From: Loveland, CO
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This topic has been discussed dozens of times on every bike forum, starting over 10 years ago. The common mix is three or four parts mineral spirits or naptha (camp stove fuel) to one part oil. People have tried all sort of oils, including synthetic or conventional motor oil, chainsaw bar oil, transmission fluid and 80/90W gear lube.
The chainsaw bar oil and gear lube are quite heavy and more messy unless diluted even more. The gear lube also smells pretty bad.
I first tried ProLink about 10 years ago. I paid $18 for three 4-ounce bottles. I later found out that it is mostly mineral spirits (from a factory rep). Of course they want you to believe that the lubricant is something really special.
Since that time, I's used nothing but homebrew lubes. For less than the price of two 4-ounce bottles of Prolink, you can mix up 160 ounces of home brew. It will work just as well and you can apply it heavily since it costs so little.
The chainsaw bar oil and gear lube are quite heavy and more messy unless diluted even more. The gear lube also smells pretty bad.
I first tried ProLink about 10 years ago. I paid $18 for three 4-ounce bottles. I later found out that it is mostly mineral spirits (from a factory rep). Of course they want you to believe that the lubricant is something really special.
Since that time, I's used nothing but homebrew lubes. For less than the price of two 4-ounce bottles of Prolink, you can mix up 160 ounces of home brew. It will work just as well and you can apply it heavily since it costs so little.
#15
whoever mentioned that keeping the drivetrain clean and lubed with SOMETHING hit the nail on the head i believe. motor oil is not the best at keeping the chain clean as it tends to attract silt and fine debris, but as long as you keep the chain clean and lubricate it frequently, most products work about the same.
#16
Over the hill

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I bottle of Pro Link costs me about $7 and lasts about a year. At 2 cents per day, I think I can find better ways to save money.
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#17
Carpe Diem
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#18
To OP- did you really just ask about using motor oil mixed with paint thinner?
#19
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From: Loveland, CO
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Dry lubes are clean, but probably won't produce the longest chain life.
Last edited by DaveSSS; 05-04-09 at 09:46 AM.
#20
Lubrication experts who have posted on this site say that waxes and other dry lubes don't work all that well. A dry lube is easily displaced from the wear areas. You really need something that can flow.
Having used Finish Line, Pedro's, T9, and a bunch of other lubes, that spray can of teflon lube is OG in a hood full of Ja Rules.
#21
Over the hill

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It's never enough.
Seriously though, after the first application, you don't have to put all that much on each month, except after rain rides when I clean and relube... but only happens a handful of times around here.
Seriously though, after the first application, you don't have to put all that much on each month, except after rain rides when I clean and relube... but only happens a handful of times around here.
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#22
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