So just how fragile are carbon wheels (303's or 404's)?
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So just how fragile are carbon wheels (303's or 404's)?
I am on the fence about buying a set of fancy aero wheels but am quite concerned that if I spend $2K for a set then proceed to ride on our crappy roads and bust one, I'll kill someone.
How much abuse can they take? I mean I ride on mostly familiar roads so I know where the "killer bumps" are but sometimes you have to go around something and end up hitting something hard by accident.
How much worse is the ride than a set of non carbon wheels? I have a set of Krysium at the moment but have never tried carbon wheels.
Also, how bad is a 404 in cross winds?
I'm looking for a strong and stiff wheel that i can train and race on that will be sturdy enough for me not to have to worry every time I ride over a kleenex. Any suggestions? Should I just stick with what I have?
Thanks
Chris
How much abuse can they take? I mean I ride on mostly familiar roads so I know where the "killer bumps" are but sometimes you have to go around something and end up hitting something hard by accident.
How much worse is the ride than a set of non carbon wheels? I have a set of Krysium at the moment but have never tried carbon wheels.
Also, how bad is a 404 in cross winds?
I'm looking for a strong and stiff wheel that i can train and race on that will be sturdy enough for me not to have to worry every time I ride over a kleenex. Any suggestions? Should I just stick with what I have?
Thanks
Chris
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Do you plan on racing?
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I've heard of Zipps cracking a lot. My Reynolds seem to be my strongest wheelset, I've never had a problem with them and that includes getting run over by a car...
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I ride my 303s every day over the lousy chip seal and broken up country roads around here.
So far; so good.
Probably 5,000+ miles
So far; so good.
Probably 5,000+ miles
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buy what you can afford to replace
if breaking a rim (in a crash or otherwise) would make you want to kill someone, you should probably buy a non-carbon rim
if you do get them, i think you should plan on only using them to race
if breaking a rim (in a crash or otherwise) would make you want to kill someone, you should probably buy a non-carbon rim
if you do get them, i think you should plan on only using them to race
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I have 4300 miles on my Bontrager Aeolus 5.0's and have not had any issues with them whatsoever. The road surfaces in CT are breaking apart from the crappy winters, so the wheels get a pretty good beating. They can really suck on a gusty windy day, though .... my trusty Mavic Open Pros are the total bomb for *all weather*/all condition riding.
#8
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Reynolds or Edge wheels are strong enough to use as a daily wheelset. I wouldn't go out of my way to ride them in nasty weather simply to avoid grinding road grit into the rim sidewalls, but if you really wanted a carbon wheelset that you could ride all the time, Reynolds or Edge clinchers are an excellent choice. I don't know that I would ride on them daily if I had them, but it can and has been done.
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For Quebec roads, I think I'd recommend a set of Eastons. They build their wheels around the premise of being able to take a beating.
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I have two years on 303s and no problem. They are very sturdy. If I had to buy all over again, I would go with 404s. Crosswinds aren't a problem.
The problem with many people is they train with other wheels and race with 303/404s. Why? Train with what you race with.
The problem with many people is they train with other wheels and race with 303/404s. Why? Train with what you race with.
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Bontrager Aeroles on my Madone and after 3000 miles I am not worried and I weigh close to 200. I also do no do anything stupid that would cause a jolt if I can avoid it.
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What about Zipp 202's? They are "smaller" than 303's and 404's and may not take a pothole too well; racewheels only and train on similar profile alu rims?
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303's and 404's are fine. For everyday use, I'd get the clinchers personally.
As for the tubulars... If they're getting raced at Paris-Roubaix, they're pretty durable. The real difference comes in when you trash a rim. For a carbon wheel that's a $300-500 sting, whereas if you trash an Open Pro you can get one for $40.
As for the tubulars... If they're getting raced at Paris-Roubaix, they're pretty durable. The real difference comes in when you trash a rim. For a carbon wheel that's a $300-500 sting, whereas if you trash an Open Pro you can get one for $40.
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#19
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Zipps do crack. I don't think those would be my main training hoops. So far my Taiwan-sourced Williams 38c everyday wheels appear to be rather bulletproof, but they only have about 3-4K miles on them. I use my Zipp 404s (tubulars) for racing, competitive rides, the occasional training ride. I try not to take them on rides where they will get slammed, although that can be unavoidable at times.
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Zipps do crack. I don't think those would be my main training hoops. So far my Taiwan-sourced Williams 38c everyday wheels appear to be rather bulletproof, but they only have about 3-4K miles on them. I use my Zipp 404s (tubulars) for racing, competitive rides, the occasional training ride. I try not to take them on rides where they will get slammed, although that can be unavoidable at times.
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Thanks for the answers guys.
I will be racing on whatever wheels I get (a couple of crits and some road races) but mostly just good fun rides with buddies and some solo training rides.
I'll look into Reynolds and see what they have to offer. The 303's here cost about $2100 for the set so although I can afford to replace a busted wheel, I would rather not have to do that unless it was something that would have bent or broken an alu wheel as well. Hey, if I crash I crash...it happens.
Anyone have a set of use carbon wheels they want to sell cheap(ish) so I can try them out before bitting the bullet for $2k and hating it?
I would buy clinchers since I'm not into changing tubulars in the middle of nowhere and then being super cautious while cornering.
Chris
I will be racing on whatever wheels I get (a couple of crits and some road races) but mostly just good fun rides with buddies and some solo training rides.
I'll look into Reynolds and see what they have to offer. The 303's here cost about $2100 for the set so although I can afford to replace a busted wheel, I would rather not have to do that unless it was something that would have bent or broken an alu wheel as well. Hey, if I crash I crash...it happens.
Anyone have a set of use carbon wheels they want to sell cheap(ish) so I can try them out before bitting the bullet for $2k and hating it?
I would buy clinchers since I'm not into changing tubulars in the middle of nowhere and then being super cautious while cornering.
Chris
#24
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With due respect this is the best advice out here.
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Oh and which Reynolds wheel do you guys think would be best for my need?