My old bike was totaled in an accident about a week ago. It was a commuter hybrid bike for school. My plan was to buy a racing bike too, but now, instead of replacing my commuter, I might as well get something I can ride to school AND race sometime.

I looked through the archives on this site and others before I posted and wanted a second opinion on what an inexpensive entry-level is nowadays and what it runs (because some of the threads were about 3 or 4 years old).

I can't bust the bank and would probably go used if I bought anything. What I want to know is what bike I should buy that would be the bare minimum for racing. I've read that it's about the engine, not the bike, but I'm pretty sure that there's a difference between a hybrid and an entry level road bike.

Thanks. :]

Can't give much of an answer without knowing your budget. There are hundreds of bikes to choose from. Anything equipped with Tiagra or Veloce and above, on a decent quality frame that fits, with round, middle-of-the-road wheels will work.

My budget is around $500-$600. College is keeping that from going up.

You'll get a million different answers. For me personally, I could probably race anything with integrated brake/shift levers, and didn't weigh over say 23 pounds, and it wouldn't have a hugely detrimental effect. YMMV, I race flat crits. If you race hilly road races, you may have a different opinion. All the races I've done this year have been on a Sora equipped generic aluminum bike.

desire.

I think the level of bike that wouldn't hold you back would be sub 23lbs, good mechanical order,at least 10 speeds, and a good fit.

So a 1970's, 80's steel bike that fits and is in good shape is pretty much entry level. Available around $200. Anything above that is luxury, not necessity.

Health insurance is a good idea too.

OP, for your budget I'd try to get a used alu or steel road bike, say from the 90's or later. I race a 22-lb steel Ciocc in the 4/5's and don't seem to have any issues with the bike in races, the hardest part is getting your legs/heart/lungs ready.

I think weight is less a deal then DT shifters. I love my DT bike, but racing it in a typical tight pack crit, I don't think I'd want to. Especially being a cat 5, with lots of cat 5s around me, last thing I'd want to be doing would be taking my hands off the bars.

there is definitely a significant difference between a hybrid and an entry level road bike, but there's a much smaller difference between an entry level and $3000 road bike. You'll be able to find aggressive race geometries, and softer weekend-warrior geometries at both levels; it will just depend on the brand and the model. To be honest though, even if you got a bike that wasn't engineered from the ground up for racing, at the level you're at there isn't going to be a huge impact.

If you're in LA like your profile says, go to craigslist, click bikes, and put in a price range from like $400 to $600 you may not find a lot, or anything, but if you wait a couple weeks and check often, you'll eventually find something decent. For instance

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv...236494258.html

looks like a pretty good value.

To the OP: if it fits (if you're about 5'11"-6'3" with a 34"-ish inseam), buy the bike that cpk found and linked. The only reason I don't ride mine every day to work (almost the same bike, just different paint and wheels) is because I'm spoiled by my dynohub bike.

That Cannondale looks very nice, but 58cm might be a little tall for me (I'm a 32 inch inseam and 5'9).

I'll just wait for something in my size on Craigslist. My problem is not recognizing deals (seeing as I'm new at 'serious' cycling). That's why I'm asking for particular entry-level bikes that I can look out for.

I raced on a bike tonight that ran me $750 via Craig's List. I actually built a super nice race rig this year, but after noticing all the bikes around me asploding (amazing how many wing dings show up for the tuesday night world champs, willing to risk it all to finish 12th instead of 13th), I'm back to racing on my Craig's list special for anything that might get dicey. It's a generic aluminum frame with a mix of ultegra/105 components. Perfectly fine for my purposes.

Fit comes first. If it fits and shifts, you can race it. Don't worry about much else. Most of us have stories about getting dropped by an old guy riding something from the 80's with downtube shifters, me included.

Your best bet is likely a 3-5 year old aluminum frame, 10 speed 105 level components (ultegra is a nice upgrade if you can swing it), and wheels that have some life left. Be patient and do not sacrifice on the fit. I'd guess you're a 54, but don't hold me to that. Wait for the right one. There's a lot of nice cannondale, trek, fuji, and giant builds out there that would work just fine.

I found an 05 giro bianchi for 800 dollars on craigslist. I lowballed him and offered 500 and he said that would work for him. Don't be afraid to get rejected.

58 might work for you. I'm about an inch taller but have a similar inseam and have a 58 steel bike (that I need to give back to my old roommate) and it fits me better than my 54.

Try it. If it fits, buy it.

Ha ha. I think I know that guy. Does he have 'tracks'.

That was me

I agree completely. That money can get you a bike that would've been considered a high quality racer in its time and will certainly get you started today. So long as it stops, shifts and rolls (and fits) you can get started on it.

Without a doubt.

Might be the best advice on the thread.

Oops.

I think Merlin's talking about an "old" 10-speed with 5 cogs in the back and a double chain ring. There's a guy who does the local Tuesday nighters on an old Dean with downtube shifters and maybe 6 cogs in back.

I thought about clarifying that when I typed it. 2x5.

there is a guy who has been coming to my local tuesday nighter on a stock surly long haul trucker, he says he's never raced before, and i can't hang with his s***.

like the internet says, it's the engine.

What is a stock surly long haul trucker?

I raced on this last year, did pretty well:

^ Where are your shifters? I don't see DT, bar-end, STI or stem? WTF?