Fork Rake - Important?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2005
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Fork Rake - Important?
I'm thinking of replacing my fork on an '08 Six13. I ride a smaller frame, so the rake is 50mm, most of the forks i'm looking at have a smaller rake of 43-45mm. I measured from the end of the tire to the downtube of the frame, and there should be plenty of room.
Are there any adverse affects from using a fork with a slightly smaller rake?
Are there any adverse affects from using a fork with a slightly smaller rake?
#7
#9
Give it a few hundred miles... if too twitchy, replace imo
#10
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 15,410
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From: Tariffville, CT
Bikes: Tsunami road bikes, Dolan DF4 track
There are two things at work here, trail and wheelbase.
Trail will increase with less rake, given a head tube angle that slopes back (i.e. 73 deg).
Once you hit 90 degrees, rake makes for negative trail. Think shopping cart wheels - the wheel, pointing forward (backwards) is a 90 degree head tube angle with perhaps 1/2" rake. You push the cart forward and the wheel spins to its "correct" direction, which would be 1/2" negative rake.
Which brings to point, if you have a negative head tube angle, you need negative rake.
Wheelbase - a shorter rake will give you a shorter wheelbase. Wheelbase doesn't necessarily make it more or less stable. However, a longer wheelbase make the bike slower to steer. Think tandem versus BMX bike.
Shorter rake will make the wheelbase shorter. It will increase trail and therefore stability; this means the bike will change direction slower. It will increase toeclip overlap.
cdr
Trail will increase with less rake, given a head tube angle that slopes back (i.e. 73 deg).
Once you hit 90 degrees, rake makes for negative trail. Think shopping cart wheels - the wheel, pointing forward (backwards) is a 90 degree head tube angle with perhaps 1/2" rake. You push the cart forward and the wheel spins to its "correct" direction, which would be 1/2" negative rake.
Which brings to point, if you have a negative head tube angle, you need negative rake.
Wheelbase - a shorter rake will give you a shorter wheelbase. Wheelbase doesn't necessarily make it more or less stable. However, a longer wheelbase make the bike slower to steer. Think tandem versus BMX bike.
Shorter rake will make the wheelbase shorter. It will increase trail and therefore stability; this means the bike will change direction slower. It will increase toeclip overlap.
cdr
#12
Soma Lover
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Logan, UT
Bikes: one bike for every day of the week
Too much trail can lead to a bike that won't initiate turns at speed or easily get pulled back out of turns.
My old school bomber mountain bike is that way but Lord is it fun in a straight line!
More trail increases the lever arm that keeps the front wheel straight and hence the force required to turn the bike. Turning the bar also lowers your center of gravity slightly. More trail increases the effect and hence the force necessary to straighten the bars back up. Less offset is also a shorter wheelbase. A shorter wheelbase can improve low speed maneuverability.
Overall, I liked what changing the fork rake from 45mm to 43mm did for my road bike. I think a 5mm change would've been too much though.
There are just too many factors to be covered in a sentence or two. Check out the chapter on frame geometry and bike stability in Zinn's Cycling Primer. https://www.velonews.com/media/Block40.pdf There's also this https://velonews.com/article/9314 with some additional comments on shimmy.
If you decide to try it, leave the steerer cut 15mm too long for a while so you can sell it easier if you want to switch back. Taking the loss would be tough, but it would be worse if the fork were left with a steerer too short to fit on anything else.
My old school bomber mountain bike is that way but Lord is it fun in a straight line!

More trail increases the lever arm that keeps the front wheel straight and hence the force required to turn the bike. Turning the bar also lowers your center of gravity slightly. More trail increases the effect and hence the force necessary to straighten the bars back up. Less offset is also a shorter wheelbase. A shorter wheelbase can improve low speed maneuverability.
Overall, I liked what changing the fork rake from 45mm to 43mm did for my road bike. I think a 5mm change would've been too much though.
There are just too many factors to be covered in a sentence or two. Check out the chapter on frame geometry and bike stability in Zinn's Cycling Primer. https://www.velonews.com/media/Block40.pdf There's also this https://velonews.com/article/9314 with some additional comments on shimmy.
If you decide to try it, leave the steerer cut 15mm too long for a while so you can sell it easier if you want to switch back. Taking the loss would be tough, but it would be worse if the fork were left with a steerer too short to fit on anything else.




