What to replace first - frame, groupset, wheels?
#1
Thread Starter
VTGuy
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3
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What to replace first - frame, groupset, wheels?
I currently ride a 2003 Masi Speciale (steel frame, 105 groupset, shimano 540 wheelset). All parts are in fine working order, but I've gotten more serious with my riding the last couple of years and am looking to upgrade. Rather than buying an entirely new bike the plan is to replace items over time.
I am interested upgrading to 1) Lynskey's R230 frame, 2) SRAM Force groupset, and 3) Mavic Ksyrium sl wheelset (or something similar).
Ignoring opportunistic purchasing based on price, which upgrade will have the greatest impact on the quality of the overall ride? I am not a racer, and have no interest in ever racing. I am your average "weekend warrior" who rides ~ 150 miles per week and enjoys a few centuries every summer. (Other upgrades, e.g., seat, seat post, stem, headset, etc. will be done as needed.)
Thanks.
I am interested upgrading to 1) Lynskey's R230 frame, 2) SRAM Force groupset, and 3) Mavic Ksyrium sl wheelset (or something similar).
Ignoring opportunistic purchasing based on price, which upgrade will have the greatest impact on the quality of the overall ride? I am not a racer, and have no interest in ever racing. I am your average "weekend warrior" who rides ~ 150 miles per week and enjoys a few centuries every summer. (Other upgrades, e.g., seat, seat post, stem, headset, etc. will be done as needed.)
Thanks.
#2
ah.... sure.
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,107
Likes: 1
From: Whidbey Island WA
Bikes: Specialized.... schwinn..... enough to fill my needs..
If this is the only bike in the stable... I would suggest none of the above. Save up and buy that bike that has what you want. Keep the Masi for the winter and as a backup.
If that doesn't apply.....
What do you dislike the most about the Masi and start with that first.
If that doesn't apply.....
What do you dislike the most about the Masi and start with that first.
#3
Super Moderator

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 21,986
Likes: 1,165
From: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
I currently ride a 2003 Masi Speciale (steel frame, 105 groupset, shimano 540 wheelset). All parts are in fine working order, but I've gotten more serious with my riding the last couple of years and am looking to upgrade. Rather than buying an entirely new bike the plan is to replace items over time.
I am interested upgrading to 1) Lynskey's R230 frame, 2) SRAM Force groupset, and 3) Mavic Ksyrium sl wheelset (or something similar).
Ignoring opportunistic purchasing based on price, which upgrade will have the greatest impact on the quality of the overall ride? I am not a racer, and have no interest in ever racing. I am your average "weekend warrior" who rides ~ 150 miles per week and enjoys a few centuries every summer. (Other upgrades, e.g., seat, seat post, stem, headset, etc. will be done as needed.)
Thanks.
I am interested upgrading to 1) Lynskey's R230 frame, 2) SRAM Force groupset, and 3) Mavic Ksyrium sl wheelset (or something similar).
Ignoring opportunistic purchasing based on price, which upgrade will have the greatest impact on the quality of the overall ride? I am not a racer, and have no interest in ever racing. I am your average "weekend warrior" who rides ~ 150 miles per week and enjoys a few centuries every summer. (Other upgrades, e.g., seat, seat post, stem, headset, etc. will be done as needed.)
Thanks.
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#6
i suggest buying nice wheels now. i'd skip the mavics though, you can do better for the $$.
after that save and buy the frame and components together, then just move the wheels over. the wheels alone should be good enough to liven up the bike for you while you save for the rest.
after that save and buy the frame and components together, then just move the wheels over. the wheels alone should be good enough to liven up the bike for you while you save for the rest.
#9
Should Be More Popular




Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 46,228
Likes: 11,772
From: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
Generally speaking, it is cheaper to buy the whole package rather than to buy piecemeal.
However, If you are very opportunistic and like ebay, this rule can be violated.
However, If you are very opportunistic and like ebay, this rule can be violated.
#10
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 15,410
Likes: 188
From: Tariffville, CT
Bikes: Tsunami road bikes, Dolan DF4 track
Can you define "springy"?
If you want to upgrade your bike, make wholesale changes. Don't get a tire 5 grams lighter, or a 10 g lighter stem. Do big changes or don't do them at all.
If you're making upgrades, make them to pieces you can transfer to a new bike, or use for a long time. For example, I have a favorite saddle type (marketed at some point as the Titanio 2000) that I've been using for probably 10 years. I have a few of them now, and I move them from bike to bike. Another example - a favorite bar shape (there, too, I've been using the same bar shape for about 20 years). Pedals too.
Wheels fall under this category as long as your drivetrain doesn't "obsolete" them. For example, a 10s wheelset can work with future bikes. Also wheels end up "completing" another bike. You can get wheels now, get a frame/kit later, and you'll have a complete bike.
You can also get expensive, one-time parts. I'd include seat posts and stems in this category, or cranks. Things that don't wear out quickly and, hopefully, can get moved from bike to bike. I use Thomson posts, Ritchey stems, and I've been moving them around too. When I got a frame with a wider seatpost (31.6 mm instead of 27.2 which is what all my other road bikes have) I just got a Problem Solvers spacer and used the 27.2 in the 31.6.
If you upgrade something for fit (longer stem for example, or a nicer bar shape) then get rid of the old piece. If you upgrade for weight, hang onto it.
I'd do, in order of cost/effectiveness, fit pieces (bar, stem, saddle), gearing (a close ratio cassette makes a difference), tires, and wheels.
For clinchers get a kevlar bead tire, typically under 250g for a durable tire. This is an area where most manufacturers cut corners - either a super light, super fragile tire or a heavy one.
For wheels get something aero. Don't waste your money getting a functionally identical wheel (Ksyrium whatever) that weighs 200-400 grams less. Get a tall aero wheel, 50+ mm rim height (I'd try and hit 60-80 mm). Save your current front wheel for windy days, get a lighter one eventually.
The upgrades in drivetrain parts gets you less function. Yes, upgrading to higher quality (thicker/stiffer) chainrings really makes a difference, but only in how you perceive the bike. It won't buy you mph like wheels, or a better position, or increase comfort like a good saddle. I'd save that for your next "kit" or group purchase.
cdr
If you want to upgrade your bike, make wholesale changes. Don't get a tire 5 grams lighter, or a 10 g lighter stem. Do big changes or don't do them at all.
If you're making upgrades, make them to pieces you can transfer to a new bike, or use for a long time. For example, I have a favorite saddle type (marketed at some point as the Titanio 2000) that I've been using for probably 10 years. I have a few of them now, and I move them from bike to bike. Another example - a favorite bar shape (there, too, I've been using the same bar shape for about 20 years). Pedals too.
Wheels fall under this category as long as your drivetrain doesn't "obsolete" them. For example, a 10s wheelset can work with future bikes. Also wheels end up "completing" another bike. You can get wheels now, get a frame/kit later, and you'll have a complete bike.
You can also get expensive, one-time parts. I'd include seat posts and stems in this category, or cranks. Things that don't wear out quickly and, hopefully, can get moved from bike to bike. I use Thomson posts, Ritchey stems, and I've been moving them around too. When I got a frame with a wider seatpost (31.6 mm instead of 27.2 which is what all my other road bikes have) I just got a Problem Solvers spacer and used the 27.2 in the 31.6.
If you upgrade something for fit (longer stem for example, or a nicer bar shape) then get rid of the old piece. If you upgrade for weight, hang onto it.
I'd do, in order of cost/effectiveness, fit pieces (bar, stem, saddle), gearing (a close ratio cassette makes a difference), tires, and wheels.
For clinchers get a kevlar bead tire, typically under 250g for a durable tire. This is an area where most manufacturers cut corners - either a super light, super fragile tire or a heavy one.
For wheels get something aero. Don't waste your money getting a functionally identical wheel (Ksyrium whatever) that weighs 200-400 grams less. Get a tall aero wheel, 50+ mm rim height (I'd try and hit 60-80 mm). Save your current front wheel for windy days, get a lighter one eventually.
The upgrades in drivetrain parts gets you less function. Yes, upgrading to higher quality (thicker/stiffer) chainrings really makes a difference, but only in how you perceive the bike. It won't buy you mph like wheels, or a better position, or increase comfort like a good saddle. I'd save that for your next "kit" or group purchase.
cdr
#11
Still can't climb
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 23,024
Likes: 6
From: Limey in Taiwan
this seems to be kind of how i ended up with a second bike without planning it. i had an old downtube 7 speed steel bike that i got back into cycling with after 10 years not riding. upgraded components to 105 10 speed and 10 speed wheels because i wanted easier shifting. then just under a year later i saw a frame massively reduced on clearance (a complete ultegra bike with this frame was also available on clearance) and so moved everything across to a carbon frame and turned the steel into a ss. now i have a set of 7 speed components that i may put back onto the steel.
if i had to do it again and if i hadn't already got all the components first, i would just buy the new bike. i could have got the new bike complete on clearance with ultegra for not much more than all the 105 stuff, frame and cheap wheels i got.
if i had to do it again and if i hadn't already got all the components first, i would just buy the new bike. i could have got the new bike complete on clearance with ultegra for not much more than all the 105 stuff, frame and cheap wheels i got.
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coasting, few quotes are worthy of him, and of those, even fewer printable in a family forum......quote 3alarmer
No @coasting, you should stay 100% as you are right now, don't change a thing....quote Heathpack
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
From: NYC (Forest Hills)
Bikes: Gaulzetti Cazzo, Gaulzetti Corsa, Gaulzetti Ti, Gaulzetti SS prototype, Motobecane Fantom CXX, Ridley XFire
#15
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,990
Likes: 2
From: Charlottesville, Virginia
Bikes: Dawes Kalahari, Puch Prima Super Sport, Graham Weigh 853
I'd start by making some comfort changes. Get everything fitted right. Then buy some new bibs, and maybe some new tyres - I really like Continental GP4000s.
Your complaint about heavy and springy is probably linked to the frame and wheels. The bike you have was designed for distance riding, not racing. It sounds like you want.... a race bike; something light and stiff. I'd try and borrow one before deciding that's what you really want. The bike you have is perfect for what you do atmo.
Your complaint about heavy and springy is probably linked to the frame and wheels. The bike you have was designed for distance riding, not racing. It sounds like you want.... a race bike; something light and stiff. I'd try and borrow one before deciding that's what you really want. The bike you have is perfect for what you do atmo.
#16
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 256
Likes: 0
From: Forresters Beach, Australia.
Bikes: Pinarello FPQuattro, Giant XTC 29er
As per others comments:
Whole bikes are quicker, easier and better value
Wheels & Saddle are quick and also can be readily moved between bikes.
Don't buy what you already have - sounds simple but I ( along with others I suspect...) have been guilty of this in the past.
Whatever you get, buy what you like, not what others like.
Above all - enjoy!
Whole bikes are quicker, easier and better value
Wheels & Saddle are quick and also can be readily moved between bikes.
Don't buy what you already have - sounds simple but I ( along with others I suspect...) have been guilty of this in the past.
Whatever you get, buy what you like, not what others like.
Above all - enjoy!
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